A Description of Modern Birmingham by Charles Pye

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About one quarter of a mile distant from Soho, is the residence of
Miss Boulton, whose house is secluded from public view, by a lofty
brick wall; and half a mile farther, going down a lane, by the sign
of the Queen's head, a landscape of considerable interest exhibits
itself; including Soho, Birmingham, and the intermediate country, to
the monument. In the grounds, on the right, opposite the three mile
stone, is a grand picturesque view of the whole country, including
Barr-beacon, Aston church, and the lofty trees in the park. About half
a mile farther, you arrive at the verge of Sandwell park, a, seat
belonging to the Earl of Dartmouth, and opposite, on the left, is a
grand panoramic view of the country, including the ruins of Dudley
castle.

The church is an ancient gothic stone building, dedicated to St. Mary,
with a square tower, of grey-stone; the body is of an irregular form,
the workmanship being rude and tasteless. It appears to be much
neglected, and out of repair, both inside and out; and neither in
respect to size or decorations, does it bear any analogy to the number
of the population, or the wealth of the parishioners. Indeed, if the
structure of the church should be a criterion to judge of the opulence
of the inhabitants, a stranger would certainly conclude, that they
were most of them tenants at rack rent, and greatly burdened with
poor. The only objects deserving of notice, are two monuments; one in
the inside, and the other on the out. The one erected to commemorate
the late Matthew Boulton, Esq. is the work of the celebrated Flaxman,
and adds another wreath of laurel to the brow of that classical
artist. If is of white and blue marble, and is surmounted by a bust,
which is the best representation extant of that enterprising and
deserving man, to whose memory it is sacred. The other is an humble
tomb-stone, remarkable as being one of the last works, cut by his own
hand, with his name at the top of it, of that celebrated typographer,
Baskerville, but this, being neglected by the relations of the
deceased, has been mutilated, although the inscription is still
perfect, but so much overgrown with moss and weeds, that it requires
more discrimination than falls to the lot of many passing travellers
to discover the situation of this neglected gem. To those who are
curious, it will be found close to the wall, immediately under the
chancel window. This precious relic of that eminent man is deserving
of being removed, at the expense of the parish, and preserved with the
greatest care, withinside the church. Mr. Baskerville was originally a
stone-cutter, and afterwards kept a school, in Birmingham.[6]

[Footnote 6: Since writing the above, the Rev. T. L. Freer, who is
rector, and the wealthy parishioners have entered into a liberal
subscription, and being aided by government with the sum of five
hundred pounds, they have undertaken to rebuild the body of the
church, according to an elegant plan, designed by W. Hollins,
statuary and architect, of Birmingham, without making any rate on the
inhabitants.]

There is only one more of his cutting known to be in existence, and
that has lately been removed and placed withinside the church, at
Edgbaston; to which place please to refer.

_West-Bromwich, in Staffordshire, distant five miles_.

The church is an old tower structure of stone, dedicated to St.
Clement; the body having been of late years rebuilt, has two side
aisles, handsomely pewed, and galleries all round. The officiating
clergyman is the Rev. Charles Townsend.

The waste lands in this parish being inclosed by act of parliament in
the year 1804, has produced a very beneficial effect; for, by the side
of the main road, which scarcely produced a blade of grass, there
are now numerous houses erected, and the lands about them are very
productive. The new inclosed lands now let from three pounds to five
pounds per acre, and a great part of it is in tillage.

In this extensive parish, the new inclosed land has been sold from
one hundred to eight hundred and forty pounds per acre; and the
neighbourhood is now become so populous, that it is in contemplation
to erect a new church, there being in the beginning of October last
more than three thousand pounds subscribed for that purpose.

The following works of considerable magnitude are, already
established, and now in full work:--

Birmingham brass company, in Spon-lane.
James Taylor, cast steel manufactory.
Archibald Kenrick and Co. iron-founders.
Samuel and John Dawes, iron and steel-masters.
Izons and Whitehurst, foundry for kitchen furniture.
Elwell and Hortons, iron-founders.
Thomas Price, iron-master.
Bagnall and Son, iron-masters.
William Bullock and Co. iron-founders, and manufacturers
of kitchen furniture, improved coffee mills, &c.
Charles Bache, manufacturer of bar and sheet iron, old
forge.
William Chapman, grinder and polisher, Burstelholme mill.
Samuel Elwell, iron-master, Friar-park forge,
---- Tickell, iron-master.
Isaac Horton, boiler-maker.
Edward Fisher and Co. iron-masters.
John U. Rastrick, manufacturer of steam engines.

Before you arrive at the six mile stone, the road divides, and you
proceed on the right hand for another mile, when, on a sudden, the eye
is highly gratified with a view of _Wednesbury_. Which is erected on a
declivity; and on the summit, the church, with its lofty spire, makes
a very unusual and respectable appearance. This church is a beautiful
gothic edifice; the body and tower of which is coated with Parker's
cement, but the chancel remains as before. Tradition says, that on
this spot there was, in former times, a Saxon castle. Withinside the
church there are numerous ancient monuments, and an inscription,
signifying that William Hopkins, yeoman, Richard Hawkes, and Robert
Carter, caused the chimes of this church to be made and set up, at
their equal and proper cost and charges, A. D. 1635. The clock, which
is represented to be a remarkable good one, has a pendulum upon an
unusual construction, the rod being fourteen yards in length, and the
ball of it weighs 100 pounds.

Here are eight musical bells, the two trebles being fixed in 1558; the
sixth has an inscription, "William Comberford, lord of this manor,
gave this bell, 1623."--"On the seventh is, Sancta Bartholomew, ora
pro nobis." And on the tenor is inscribed, "I will sound and resound
to thee, O Lord, to call thy people to hear thy word."

The church yard is of considerable extent, and being in such an
elevated situation, those who profess to delineate panoramas may here
find ample scope to display their abilities; for there is not only a
view of the following churches, but the towns and villages wherein
they are situated, are several of them under the eye of the spectator
from this lofty eminence, viz. Walsall, Willenhall, Darlaston,
Wolverhampton two churches, Bilstone, Sedgley, Dudley, two churches
and the ruins of the castle, West-bromwich, Tipton, Wednesfield,
Brierly-hill, and Rushall; in addition to the above, by ascending the
roof of the church, you command Birmingham and Aston, together with
numerous engines that are at work in its vicinity; the whole when
combined form such a rich and variegated scene as probably cannot be
equalled in any other situation.

In the vicinity of Wednesbury there are numerous mines of coal,
wherein great numbers of people are employed, whilst others pursue the
different branches of gun-making; springs, steps, and other articles
used by coach-makers, are also manufactured here, together with wood
screws, hinges, and of late, apparatus for the gas lights.

In the year 1742, when the methodists were spreading their doctrines
through the kingdom, some disturbances took place here on that
account; and soon after, Mr. Wesley, the preacher, was waited upon by
Sir John Gonson, one of the Middlesex justices, who notified to him
that he and his brethren had received orders from above to do justice
to him and his friends, whenever they should make application; his
majesty being determined, that no man in his dominions should be
persecuted for conscience sake. Posterity will scarcely credit, that
in Britain, and at so late a period as 1742, justice was not to be
obtained but by an order from court; and that such order was issued,
reflects infinite credit on the sovereign, George 2d, who commanded
it. This mandate was not by any means premature; for it became
absolutely necessary, to quell the increasing tumults. In
Staffordshire, the populace rose upon their employers, from whom they
demanded money, and if that was not complied with, they threatened
to serve them as they had done the methodists. A quaker, when riding
through Wednesbury, was attacked by them, pulled from off his horse,
and dragged to a coal pit, where it was attended with difficulty to
prevent their throwing him in. This gentleman, not being so much
attached to his principles as to refuse the protection of the law,
prosecuted them at the assizes, which caused those tumults to subside
in Staffordshire.

_Darlaston_.

This place, being only one mile distant, I went there; but neither on
the road or in the village could I perceive any thing deserving of
attention; the inhabitants being employed in the same pursuits as at
Wednesbury.

_Walsall, in Staffordshire, distant nine miles, on the direct road to
Stafford_.

You proceed down Snowhill, and having passed the buildings, you
perceive on the right hand Hunter's nursery grounds, from whence there
is a good prospect of the town of Birmingham, in a clear day. On the
left, Hockley abbey, and the plantations of Mr. Boulton, present a
rich scene in front, with a glass-house in the back ground. At the
bottom of the hill you cross a small stream of water, which separates
Warwickshire from the county of Stafford. In ascending the opposite
hill, on the right hand is Prospect-house, where the late Mr. Eginton
carried on his manufactory of stained glass. Soon after the road
divides, when, turning to the right hand, it leads you by a row of
respectable houses, and when through the toll gate, you leave what
was once Handsworth common, and immediately on the left is a handsome
house, with a beautiful avenue of lime trees; once the seat of the
ancient family of Sacheverel, but now the property of Joseph Grice,
Esq.

A little farther on the right is a simple though tasteful lodge,
leading to Heathfield, the elegant mansion of the celebrated James
Watt, Esq. who is well known to all scientific men, for the great
improvements he has made in steam engines, and various other useful
works. A few years back, the adjacent ground was a wild and dreary
waste, but it now exhibits all the beauty and luxuriance that art
assisted by taste can give it. Woods and groves appear to have started
up at command, and it may now vie with any seat in the neighbourhood,
for rural elegance and picturesque beauty. Descending the hill, the
parish church of Handsworth presents itself to view, and a short
distance before you arrive at it, is the parsonage-house, where the
Rev. Lane Freer resides.--It is a very excellent house, and possesses
more conveniences and luxuries than are usually to be met with in the
habitations of the clergy. About a mile farther on the right is the
elegant residence of N. G. Clarke, Esq. one of the king's counsel; a
gentleman highly distinguished for acuteness and perspicuity in his
profession, and thorough hospitality in his house. Still farther on
the left, as you descend a steep hill, there is a fine view, at a
considerable distance, of the domains of Hamstead hall. It is a very
elegant and modern-built mansion, the old one having been taken down
some years since, which was for many generations the seat of the
ancient and respectable family of the Wyrleys, who possessed the manor
and very large property in this parish. On the demise of the late
John Wyrley, Esq. the whole of this estate was left by will to George
Birch, Esq. at whose decease it devolved upon his only son, the
present Wyrley Birch, Esq. It is difficult to conceive a more
beautiful residence than this, as it contains all that hill and dale,
wood and water, aided by extensive views, can do, to make a place
delightful and desirable: these seem here to have been combined in
the most beautiful manner; for the river Tame meanders through this
enchanting and extensive domain; on whose banks are numerous groves
of trees, and from a solid rock there arises a lime tree, of unusual
magnitude, whose branches spreading in an horizontal direction became
so heavy, and injured the trunk to such a degree, that in order
to preserve the body, it not only became necessary to lop off the
principal branches, but to bind it together with iron in different
ways, by hooping of it, and passing a bar of iron through it, in the
same manner as buildings are frequently done, to preserve them. At the
height of three feet, it girths twenty-three feet and rises to the
height of seventy feet. The rock upon which this tree grows, is of
such a nature, that there is a grotto of considerable size cut in
it, wherein the roots from this tree spread themselves in different
directions. This inestimable estate, although for so many generations
the patrimonial possessions of the family, has been lately transferred
by the proprietor to the Earl of Dartmouth, and is now in the
possession of William Wallis, Esq.

In the valley is a corn mill, worked by the river Tame, over which
there is a substantial bridge. Near the summit of the opposite hill,
the road passes close by the residence of Mr. Wren, who is well known
in Staffordshire, as an agriculturist. Near half a mile farther on the
left is an ancient white house, which has been occupied as a school
for a number of years. From the green opposite, if you face about,
there is an extensive view over the country; two of the Birmingham
churches and the monument being conspicuous objects. A very short
distance farther is a gravel pit, opposite to which is a rich and
luxuriant view for a considerable distance. At the finger post, two
miles before you arrive at Walsall, there is a beautiful landscape,
and when you approach near the town, by looking the contrary way,
there is a rich and variegated view over the country. A little before
you enter the town, there are two respectable houses, one on each side
of the road; that on the left is the residence of Mr. Richard Jesson,
an attorney, and at the other, which is built of stone, Mr. John
Adams, a merchant, resides.

This road to Stafford is nearer by five miles than going through
Wolverhampton, and the accommodations are in every respect equal:
independant of that circumstance, whoever travels this road is not
incommoded by the numerous colleries and engines that are adjacent to
the other.

_Walsall_.

This town, being considered a borough, by prescription for a number of
years, was incorporated by letters patent, bearing date 22d February,
in the 13th year of King Charles 2d; the government thereof is vested
in a mayor, with the assistance of twenty-four capital burgesses, who
are authorised to sue and are liable to be sued, by virtue of a common
seal. William Webb was appointed the first mayor, whose successor is
to be elected and sworn into office on the feast of St. Michael. The
mayor and his brethren are authorised to fix upon a recorder and town
clerk, who are empowered to hold a court of record, whenever it is
requisite, to determine any actions or pleas, for sums of money
exceeding forty shillings, and not more than twenty pounds. There are
also two serjeants at mace, who are under their directions; the late
mayor, and one other capital burgess, being in the commission of
the peace for the borough and foreign, they have authority to take
cognizance of all crimes committed within their jurisdiction, except
conspiracy, murder, felony, or any thing touching the loss of life.
They are also empowered to have a common prison, where all offenders
may be detained, until discharged by due course of law. By this
charter, the mayor, recorder, and twenty-four capital burgesses are
exempt from serving upon any juries at Stafford.

The seal of this corporation is three fleur de lis and three lions
quarterly, with two lions as supporters; over the arms is a crown
without an arch, and over the rim of the crown there are five fleur de
lis. It is nearly the size of a crown piece, with a latin inscription,
in very ancient characters. It is deposited with Joseph Stubbs, who is
town clerk, and steward of the manor to Lord Bradford. The arms of the
town appear to be a bear with a ragged staff.

The guildhall is situated in the High-street, one wing of which is
the Dragon inn, and the other is a large room where the corporation
assemble to transact business, and is called the mayor's parlour,
under which is the prison for the town.

The ancient wooden staves belonging to the corporation are still
deposited in the hall, and are curious relics of antiquity, being
ornamented with heads of various animals, rudely carved.

The sheriff of the county, by his deputy, holds a court in this town,
at the Castle inn, every third Monday, for the recovery of debts,
under forty shillings; but the expenses are excessive to both debtor
and creditor, and if the latter loses his cause, his expenses alone
will amount to six or seven pounds.

In the year 1452, Thomas Mosely, of Moxhull, in Warwickshire, being
then lord of Bascote, in that county, gave it in trust to William Lyle
and Thomas Magot, for the use of the town of Walsall. In 1539, the
inhabitants were summoned by the bellman to repair to the church,
where a dole was distributed, amounting to the sum of seven pounds,
ten shillings, and nine-pence. Some time after, an attempt was made
to discontinue this dole, which caused the populace to assemble, who
forced the same to be continued; at which time it was distributed to
about fourteen thousand people, nine thousand of whom were supposed to
reside in Walsall.

The church is a vicarage, dedicated to St. Matthew, or All Saints: it
is an ancient pile of building, singular in its appearance, being in
the form of a cross, the transept of which is composed by large side
chapels, whose roofs lie east and west, parallel to the body of the
church. The tower, which is situated at the south-west angle of the
west front, is strong, plain, and far from inelegant, being built with
coarse lime stone, on which a new spire was erected since 1775, when
a set of eight musical bells were fixed there, by Mr. Rudhall, of
Glocester; the weight of the tenor being more than twenty-three
hundred, and the key note E flat.

The following inscriptions are round the bells:--

1. "When us you ring, we'll sweetly sing."

2. "Fear God, honour the king."

3. "Prosperity to the parish."

4. ditto ditto.

5. "The Rev. John Darwall, vicar."

6. "Thomas Rudhall, Glocester, founder."

7. "Thomas Hector, Edward Licet, Thomas Overton, Deykin Hemming,
church-wardens."

8. "I to the church the living call, And to the grave do summon all."

The font of this church is alabaster, of an octagon form, with
shields, richly sculptured.

On each side of the chancel are eleven stalls, very entire, the seats
of which, being lifted up, exhibit a series of grotesque figures,
curiously carved, in bas relief; no two of which resemble each other.
Over the communion table is a large painting, representing the last
supper.--The vicarage, where the Rev. Philip Pratt resides, is in a
delightful situation, being on an eminence, and encompassed with lofty
and majestic trees.

There are three fairs in the year, viz. February 24th, Tuesday in the
whitsun week, and the Tuesday before St. Michael; at which time the
races take place, and have been for a number of years both numerously
and genteely attended; as a proof of it, the inhabitants in the year
1809 expended the sum of thirteen hundred pounds in the erection of
a grand stand; in the lower apartments of which is a billiard table,
where they resort for recreation. The fair at whitsuntide is not held
by charter, but being market day, at that holiday time is considered
a fair by prescription. There is in this town a charity school for
twenty-four boys and sixteen girls, who are all cloathed in blue: they
are instructed and cloathed gratis, but neither lodged nor boarded.
The expenses attending this school are defrayed by subscriptions,
donations, and sermons preached on the wake Sunday, which is the
Sunday before St. Michael. The school-room is near the George hotel.
There is also a free grammar school, near the church, founded by Queen
Mary, in the first year of her reign, which she endowed with certain
lands that are vested in trustees. The High-street is spacious, and
therein are some respectable shops, and a conduit for the use of the
inhabitants.--Park-street is also a wide one, but there are numerous
low houses in it.

The town has a singular appearance; its situation being upon a bold
eminence, from whose summit arises a fine old gothic church, with a
lofty spire, the streets and houses descending in every direction. In
the vicinity are numerous lime stone quarries, some of which are open
from the surface, and from others it is drawn up through a shaft,
similar to coal mines.

Mr. Siddons, the husband of the celebrated actress, was born in
Rushall-street, in this town, whilst his father kept a public-house,
known by the sign of the London apprentice, whose death was occasioned
by sparring or wrestling with a person named Denston. The present Mr.
Siddons was originally a barber, but having an inclination for the
stage, he joined the itinerant company of Mr. Kemble, and married one
of his daughters, who afterwards proved the heroine of the stage.
Another well-known character was also a native of this town, viz,
Thomas Haskey, the celebrated ventriloquist, who was by trade a bridle
bit maker; but whilst an apprentice he left his master, and entered
into the army, where he lost a leg and obtained a pension. When young,
he did not know the abilities he possessed, but hearing O'Burn,
he endeavoured to imitate him; and when Mr. Stanton's company of
performers were at Walsall, he repeatedly from the gallery entertained
the audience by sham dialogues, in two voices, between himself and
Tommy. He was an ignorant man, but possessing this unusual faculty, he
was frequently sent for by Lord Dudley, to entertain the company at
Himley, upon which occasions, he always hired a post chaise to convey
him there. He afterwards went to London, and performed at Sadler's
Wells in the year 1796, and when his benefit came on, he cleared L200.

About one mile from the town, on the road to Wolverhampton, is a
strong chalybeate water, called Alum well.

About one mile and a half from Walsall, near to Bentley hall, at a
place called Pouck hill, as some workmen were opening a quarry, they
discovered numerous basaltic columns, some of which are from four to
five feet in diameter, of various lengths, some singularly waved,
others straight; some of the joints short and others extend to the
length of five or six feet: they lie nearly in an horizontal position,
and resemble at a distance large trees piled one upon another.

The chief articles manufactured in this town and its vicinity are
bridle bitts, stirrups, spurs and other articles either used or sold
by the saddlers.

_Barr Park, distant five miles, on the road to Walsall_.

The hospitable mansion of Sir Joseph Scott, Bart, is surrounded by a
park of considerable extent, wherein there is the greatest variety
of undulating hills and dales, wood and water, together with such
extensive views, as can only be found in this part of the kingdom. To
this park there are three entrances, and at every avenue the worthy
proprietor has erected an elegant lodge, from whence there are
capacious carriage roads to the mansion. One of these lodges is about
five miles on the road to Walsall, to which you approach by taking the
right hand road, opposite a house of entertainment, the Scott's arms,
and then taking the second turning to the left conducts you to the
lodge. On entering the park, a circular coach drive leads to the holly
wood, through which you proceed by a serpentine road near half a mile,
when a beautiful sheet of water presents itself to view, along whose
banks you pass near a mile before you arrive at the mansion.

The situation of the building is low in front of the water, but being
screened by rising ground and lofty trees, it must be very warm in
the winter. On the left of the house, a walk leads you to the flower
garden, which is laid out with great taste, containing flowers and
small shrubs of the choicest and rarest kinds, together with a
fountain in the centre. From hence there are delightful views, and
among others over the adjacent country, Birmingham is distinctly seen.
At the distance of about two miles farther, towards Walsall, there is
another lodge, which is the entrance from Walsall, and leads you by a
spacious serpentine road through the Marrian wood, which is composed
of various shrubs and evergreens, and conducts you to a most elegant
chapel, with a beautiful and well-proportioned spire, underneath which
you enter into one of the most sumptuous places of worship in the
universe. There are in the whole eleven lofty windows, and seven of
them are ornamented in the most elegant manner with stained glass, by
Eginton: they are all full length figures, large as life, with
their proper attributes. The first represents Fortitude, the second
Temperance, the third Justice, in the fourth, which is over the
communion table, is the apotheosis of a child, after the Rev. Mr.
Peters, the fifth represents Hope, the sixth Charity, and the seventh
Prudence. The pews and every other part correspond, there being a
sumptuous organ, with a gallery in front of it, which extends on each
side, before two windows. In a spacious cemetary there are some tombs,
much more elegant than are usually met with; there is also a yew tree
of large dimensions, which is grown much higher than trees of that
species do in general, and also some venerable elms, together with the
village school. Close adjoining is another lodge, and the road from
it conducts you over an elegant bridge, on the right of which is a
cascade.

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