A Voyage Round the World, Vol. I (of ?) by James Holman

J >> James Holman >> A Voyage Round the World, Vol. I (of ?)

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[Illustration: CUT THROAT]

We were much surprised at finding a Demi-John in the woods at the back
of our encampment; it certainly indicates that we are not the first
Europeans who have visited this spot.

_Wednesday, November 7_.--Anderson, accompanied by two chiefs, came on
board at 9 A.M. to say, that the King was on the beach, waiting for our
boat to fetch him off. At eleven, the Captain, accompanied by several
of his officers, myself, the band, and a party of marines, with a
variety of presents, went in three boats for the purpose of paying our
intended visit to his Majesty. We landed at a small cove, three miles
to the eastward of the ship, since known by the name of King-Cove, and
were conducted by the chiefs to a small open place in the woods, at the
distance of about a hundred yards from the rocky shore, where the
natives had placed a number of stones in the water in such manner as to
leave a channel for only one canoe to land at a time. When the Captain
was seated, a small ram, and several calabashes of palm-wine, were
brought forward. After waiting an hour, the King arrived, when the
Captain, rising to receive him, ordered a red cloak to be thrown over
his shoulders, and a velvet cap to be put on his head; as his Majesty
wore his native hat, ornamented with a pair of ram's horns on the fore
part of it, it became necessary to place the velvet one above it, and
secure it in its position by means of a bone skewer, which, piercing
both at the same time, fastened them effectually to the tuft of hair on
the top of the head. The sight of our presents, but more particularly
the quantity of iron, excited so uncontrollably the feelings of the
royal party, that the good order previously observed, could now no
longer be maintained; we were pressed upon on all sides, and with such
an inconceivable clatter and confusion of tongues, that the bellowing
of cattle would have been comparatively musical to our ears; however,
to do them justice, notwithstanding this horrid din, they did not make
the least attempt upon our persons or property. It was noticed that the
King himself gave away several small pieces of iron to certain
individuals, probably an act of policy, which, by leading others to
expect a similar token of royal favour, would restrain them from
attempting to help themselves, and thus diminish the quantum of his own
presents. During this scene of confusion, we retired to the beach and
entered our boats, the crowd following us to the shore, and many even
into the water. On this occasion, we calculated that there could not
have been less than two thousand natives assembled, including many
women, but they were kept apart from the men. Mr. Galler spoke to some
of them; but they were excessively timid, although the men endeavoured
to encourage familiarity by placing some of the younger women's hands
into his. One peculiarity was remarked on the present occasion, that
many of the natives had lost one of their hands, and some both, indeed
we found this so common in the island, that there was no doubt of the
deprivation of this part of the body being resorted to as a punishment.
Before returning to the ship, I went with Messrs. Galler and Jeffery to
visit the works at Clarence, when we were informed that the men
employed in clearing the jungle, had discovered the Indian-rubber tree,
and one or two other indigenous plants which had not been previously
noticed.

_Thursday, November 8th_.--The importance of our acquiring a knowledge
of the language of the natives of this island, must be obvious. In
order to promote this object. Captain Owen selected an active and
intelligent young man of the name of Elwood, who volunteered to reside
for a week at a village in the interior of the island; and he left the
ship this morning in pursuance of the plan. The Captain this day fixed
upon a spot for the site of a house intended for his own residence: he
also gave the name of Paradise to a portion of ground which had been
cleared to form a garden for the use of the colony, and changed the
appellation of Glover's Stairs for that of Jacob's Ladder. This
consists of a flight of 150 steps, leading from the beach to the
acclivity on which Clarence is situated that had been constructed,
since our arrival, by Mr. Glover, and his body of English artificers.

_Friday, 9_.--During the night there had been much thunder and
lightning, succeeded, in the morning, by heavy rains, which went off at
eleven o'clock, and recommenced at two, accompanied by strong gusts of
wind; at four, it cleared up again: scarcely a canoe or native was to
be seen throughout the day.

_Saturday, 10_.--The weather is to-day extremely fine, and yet very few
canoes or natives have been seen: and none have approached the ship. We
apprehend that something has occurred to displease them--a suspicion
afterwards confirmed. In the afternoon, at the time I happened to be on
shore, a deputation of seven chiefs came to Mr. Jeffery, at Newmarket,
with a complaint that our Kroomen had been cutting down the palm-trees
for the leaves to thatch their huts with; and, also, that they were
much annoyed by the frequent firing of muskets. In reply to the latter
complaint, Mr. Jeffery explained to them, that the firing proceeded
only from the attempts of our officers to shoot monkeys; to confirm
which statement, the purser very opportunely came up at the instant
with a large monkey and a small deer, which he had just shot. They did
not, however, appear properly satisfied; for they shook their heads,
and intimated that, if we persevered in cutting down the palms, it
would not only deprive them of the advantages of that valuable tree,
but, by diminishing the quantity of wood, extend the system of firing
musketry farther into the interior of the country. At length, with a
view of settling all grievances, and convincing them we had no
intention of inflicting any injury, we took them a short distance
beyond the points our men were occupied in clearing, and, placing a
quantity of iron on the ground, gave them, by signs, to understand,
that we would give them all that iron for the land contained within
that boundary. The nature of this treaty for purchase, they appeared to
understand well, and signified their assent by placing sticks, at equal
distances from each other, in the line proposed. Mr. Jeffery, at the
same time, marking a tree as an evidence of the agreement on our side.
The quantity of land of which we had thus made a _bona fide_ purchase,
was equal to about a square mile in extent. The treaty was afterwards
more fully ratified, and the property involved formally taken
possession of by a public act, which will be duly noticed. Both parties
being now satisfied, we returned to Newmarket, the natives accompanying
us, and, sitting down in a row together, farther confirmed the bargain
by plentiful libations of palm-wine.

_Sunday, 11_.--At half-past one divine service was performed by Captain
Owen, when four of the natives attended, and behaved with great
decorum; they also made signals to their companions in the canoes to
avoid all noises which might disturb us.

_Monday, 12_.--A numerous deputation of chiefs, gaily dressed, came to
our camp at Clarence, to conclude a definitive arrangement respecting
the land we had purchased on Saturday. Captain Owen accompanied them to
the boundary line, and marked an additional number of trees, to define
the limits with more accuracy. He also promised them additional
payments: after which he took four of the principal chiefs on board,
drank palm-wine with them, and made them a variety of presents.
Confidence was now fully restored, and great numbers of both sexes
visited us before the day terminated.

_Tuesday, 13_.--We have additional proofs of the return of confidence
on the part of the natives: a man and a boy insisted on remaining on
board to sleep, probably induced by the anticipation of a present.
There never were more harmless, inoffensive, or tractable people: for,
when most troublesome, they may be led in any direction you choose, by
taking hold of the hand, or even of a finger.

----------
[26] Accra is a European corruption of the word Inkran which
means an ant.

[27] The word Fetish is derived, I believe, from the Portuguese word
Fatisa, or Phatisa, which means "a charm." It is used on all occasions
by the natives, when they are asked any question which they do not
understand, or which they do not wish to understand, particularly if it
relate to their religion. Thus the sacrifice, the rocks, and the sacred
groves where they imagine their deities dwell, are all called Fetish:
also, their priests, or priestesses, when they are going through any
antic ceremonies, are said to be making Fetish, and are consequently
called Fetish men or Fetish women. Some have regarded the Fetish as an
object of worship to the natives of Africa; it ought, however, more
properly to be considered only as a _charm_, to which a superstitious
and reverential feeling is paid; in which an implicit confidence is
reposed. Whether it be intended to exercise a public or a private
function, it consists of some body, either animate or inanimate,
selected according to fancy, as a dog, cat, tiger, snake, an egg, the
bone of a bird, a piece of wood, a feather, or any other substance:
this is rendered sacred or endowed with its supposed virtues by
peculiar ceremonies, and afterwards honoured with a species of worship,
vows of abstinence from particular or occasional pleasures, and other
services; in return, the party to which it belongs looks up to it for
protection and assistance on all occasions--if successful, he
attributes it to its intervention; if unlucky, to its displeasure.

[28] In my opinion, no man under thirty years of age, should think of
travelling in an unhealthy country; before that age, the constitution
is more liable to the infection of the endemic diseases of a hot
climate than afterwards. Perhaps, between forty and fifty would be the
best age--"ceteris paribus."

[29] The following extract from the letter-book of the late African
Company, throws considerable light upon this subject:

'Cape Coast Castle, 30th January, 1783.

'Captain Lawson, who has been lately at the islands of Princes and St.
Thomas, says that the Governor, who was inimical to the English, is
returned to Portugal; he hired to the Spaniards at Fernando Po, one
hundred soldiers to make reprisals on the English, in consequence of
Captain Ragan having endeavoured to cut out of the island a Spanish
packet, which was there in March and April last. Captain West of his
Majesty's ship _Champion_, cruized off Fernando Po, two days in July
last, in order to fall in with a frigate of thirty guns, and a sloop
of fourteen, but, being both in the harbour, they would not come out.
These two vessels remained in St. Thomas's in October last, where they
had carried 200 troops, the only remains of 3000 that had originally
been sent to Fernando Po, where the Spaniards had made a settlement,
and landed a great quantity of brass cannon, and all kinds of military
stores; but the natives were so disgusted with the Spanish Government,
that they poisoned the water, which caused a great mortality and
obliged the survivors to go away. However, previous to their departure,
they dismounted and buried the cannon and all the stores; and, after
they were gone, the natives demolished all the fortification, and threw
the stones into the sea. A few Portuguese natives of St. Thomas's who
for misdemeanors had been sold to the Spaniards by the Portuguese
Government, are now remaining in the island ready to shew where the
cannon and stores are buried; and, from what Captain Lawson has heard,
the natives seem to wish that the English would come and settle among
them, promising to render us every assistance in their power in
erecting a settlement there. The importance of the trade carried on to
Leeward having already been represented to you, I shall not add on the
subject.'

----------
[30] The Diadem arrived in the bay a few hours before us.

CHAP. IX.

Native Simplicity--Resources of the Blind--Royal Village--Gathering of
Natives--Native Priests--Royal Feast--Inhospitable Treatment--
Uncomfortable Quarters--Vocabulary of the Native Language--Beauty of
the Female Character--Women of Fernando Po--Anecdotes--Aspect of the
Country--Productions--Preparations for the Settlement--Discovery of a
Theft--Mimic War Customs--Native Chiefs--Female on Board--Monkey for
Dinner--Flogging a Prisoner--Accident to a Sailor--A Voyage of Survey
round the Island--River named after the Author--Geographical and
Meteorological Observations--Insubordination--A Man Overboard--Deserter
taken--Death of the Interpreter--Method of Fishing--Visitors from St.
Thomas--Ceremony of taking Possession of Fernando Po--Interview with a
Native Chief--Celebration Dinner--Indirect Roguery--Chief and his
Wife--Hospital near Point William--The Guana--Mistake at Sea--
Suggestions on the Slave-Trade--Fishing Stakes--Schooner on a Mud-flat

_Thursday, Nov. 15_.--Soon after landing this morning, I fell in with a
party of natives, with whom I shook hands, as usual, when a young
female, whom I had frequently met in the market-place, with her
parents, perceiving that I did not immediately recognize her as an old
acquaintance, with the most natural simplicity, placed my hand on her
bosom, in the presence of her relations and countrymen, who all laughed
heartily, and appeared to enjoy my astonishment very much. If, however,
any of us had ventured upon such a liberty of our own accord, the men
would have been highly indignant, for they were extremely jealous of
their women, and did not like us to shew them any marked attention, by
purchasing their articles first, or making them a present in preference
to themselves:--such a distinction, in contradiction to the usages of
civilized society, being considered derogatory by these savage lords of
the creation.

Matthew Elwood, the young man who had been sent into the interior,
returned to-day, and I am afraid without having derived much advantage
from his journey. I expect, however, an opportunity of adverting more
fully to its results at a future time. A quantity of bricks were landed
for the purpose of constructing a forge. The natives soon found out
that they possessed the property of sharpening their knives, and began
to shew a very eager desire to become possessed of them.

_Friday, 16_.--The natives have crowded upon us in such numbers, that
we have taken up the stakes which enclosed the market, with the
intention of holding it in future without the boundary line. Several
unpleasant occurrences have taken place, partly the fault of our own
people, who have been criminal enough to sell their tools, and partly
of the natives, who have been eager to purchase them. The following
are, perhaps, the average terms on which our barter has been conducted:
an axe would purchase a sheep, or a goat; and three or four inches of
iron hoop, from two to four fowls, from eight to twelve yams, or two or
three calabashes of palm-wine, each containing about one gallon.

_Saturday, 17_.--The number and confidence of the natives continued to
increase, as well as the annoyance we experience from their
importunities;--it had been found necessary to protect the market by a
guard of soldiers. On returning from the market to-day, near the border
of Hay river, a party were daring enough to snatch the sentinel's
bayonet from out of its scabbard, and throw it into the river. The
soldier, however, succeeded in recovering it, and, to deter them from
proceeding to greater lengths, fired his musket over their heads. This
alarmed them so excessively, that away they scampered like a flock of
sheep, without daring to cast a look behind; indeed, such is their
terror of fire-arms, that it is only with the greatest difficulty that
they can be persuaded to touch a musket.

_Monday, Nov. 19_.--The young man, named Matthew Elwood, who had so
recently returned from his visit in the interior, where he had been
sent by Capt. Owen, with a view of acquiring some knowledge of their
language, volunteered to repeat it, accompanied by another young man,
and they had now been two days at the same village a few miles distant
from the settlement, where the King resided. Anxious to lose no
opportunity of obtaining information respecting the manners and customs
of this singular people, I determined on joining the party, and fixed
upon the present day for my journey. I have ever, throughout life, but
perhaps more particularly since the loss of my sight, felt an intense
interest in entering into association with human nature, and observing
human character in its more primitive forms: this propensity I have
previously had opportunities of enjoying, in some of the countries most
remote from European knowledge, amidst the wilds of Tartary and the
deserts of Siberia; and I can refer to the indulgence of it many of my
more pleasurable sensations. I know that the world declaims against the
absurdity of an individual, circumstanced like myself, professing to
derive either pleasure or information from such sources, and maintains
that travelling by the fireside would better suit those circumstances,
and convey an equally gratifying interest. I answer confidently that
this is not the case, and that I believe the intensity of my enjoyments
under the system I have adopted, equals, if not surpasses, what other
travellers experience who journey with their eyes open. It is true, I
ascertain nothing _visibly_; but, thank God! I possess most exquisitely
the other senses, which it has pleased Providence to leave me endowed
with; and I have reason to believe that my deficiency of sight is to a
considerable degree compensated, by a greater abundance of the power of
imagination which presents me with facility to form _ideal pictures_
from the description of others, which, as far as my experience goes, I
have reason to believe constitute fair and correct representations of
the objects they were originally derived from. It must be recollected
that I have formerly enjoyed the power of vision; and, although my
colourings may occasionally be too weak or too vivid, it is fair to
infer that the recollections of my former experience are sufficient to
prevent me from running into gross inaccuracies or incongruities. Place
me, as some have suggested, in the situation of the man in the farce,
and carry me in a limited circle around the same point, under the
assurance that I was travelling to distant and ever-changing scenes,
and support the stratagem by every circumstance calculated to give it
the fullest effect; it would never impose upon me: for the tact which
nature and experience have given me, and the inconceivable acuteness of
perception I derive from it, would immediately detect inconsistencies
scarcely appreciable by others, and at once overturn and expose the
deception which was being practised.

At 3 o'clock in the afternoon I left the Eden for King Cove, at which
place we found a few natives, who assembled on our landing. Anderson,
the interpreter, had been appointed to conduct me, but Mr. Jeffery
kindly accompanied me for the first half mile, in expectation of
leaving me in the care of a chief of our acquaintance. However, before
we had proceeded far, the assemblage of natives had become so great,
and their importunities to purchase palm-wine and other commodities so
annoying, that I was glad when he returned, under the expectation that
his separation from me would prove, as it did, a diversion which, by
drawing off a considerable part of the natives, would permit me to
continue my journey with less interruption. I now advanced with
Anderson as fast as the paths would admit, being anxious to arrive at
our point of destination that evening; my companion, however, was
desirous of passing the night at the hut of a chief in the
neighbourhood of the beach, and endeavoured to dissuade me from
prosecuting our journey this evening. I have already spoken of the
qualifications of this man as an interpreter, and have now to observe,
that he possessed others, which made him a useful medium of
communication with the natives: for instance, he was a good-tempered
fellow, could laugh heartily whenever they laughed, eat and drink
whatever was placed before him, however repugnant to an European
stomach; and, being somewhat of their own colour, i.e. not many shades
darker, they were inclined to be particularly partial to him.

Our path was at first tolerably good, and lay through a level country,
but, when we had proceeded about half way, became hilly, rugged, and
slippery, particularly after passing the second of two streams which
intercepted our road. A number of the natives, principally women,
continued to follow, passing evidently a variety of jokes upon us, and
laughing heartily at every false step I happened to make. Before we
reached the end of our journey, the number had increased to many
hundreds, who shouted, and halloed incessantly at the novelty of our
appearance, similar to a European rabble, when following any
extraordinary sight. To relieve Anderson, who had the luggage, I took
hold, for a short time, of the arm of a native, who conducted me well,
until we became surrounded by a crowd of his countrymen, and then,
whether he felt compelled to answer their queries, or was proud of his
charge, or anxious to exhibit the high confidence reposed in him, I
found him a very troublesome guide; for he was constantly turning his
head over my shoulder, and speaking or hallooing to those who were
behind him.

At length we arrived at the royal village, where Elwood and his
companion came to receive us at the hut that His Majesty had appointed
for our accommodation. It was so late, that my countrymen were
surprised to see us; and, the King having retired, we were obliged to
relinquish the honour of an interview until morning. I therefore took
tea, and was happy in lying down for repose, after my fatiguing
journey. It was not without much concern I learned from Elwood, that,
during the present visit, neither he nor his companion had met with the
hospitable treatment or attention which they had expected; on the
contrary, they had been compelled, immediately after their arrival, to
expose the contents of their bags, and actually obliged to surrender up
to the King one-half of the little stock of iron with which they had
provided themselves for the purpose of barter. The consequence was,
that, after paying three pieces to the natives who had conveyed their
luggage, another for a couple of fowls, and presenting a fifth to
Canning, (a chief who had been Elwood's principal friend on his former
visit, and to whom he had given this distinguished name,) to secure his
good services,--they had only one remaining for their future resources;
and it was by no means satisfactory to be thrown upon the casual
generosity of the natives. It is true, they had with them some salt
beef and biscuit, and it was understood, when they quitted the ship,
that Captain Owen had engaged to compensate the King for their
protection and entertainment.

_Tuesday, 20_.--At daybreak we were visited by Canning, and several
other chiefs, who brought with them a large yam, and some palm-wine
intended for our breakfast. We were from time to time, in reply to our
inquiries, assured that the King was coming; we waited, however, two
hours in vain expectation, and at length sent Anderson to inquire into
the cause of delay, when we were informed that His Majesty was busily
occupied at his toilet, or, in other words, having his head dressed, in
order, as I suppose, to enable him to appear with more dignity on this
important occasion. About 8 o'clock he made his entree, accompanied by
several of his chiefs. At first his manner was somewhat reserved, but,
after a short conversation, which held out to him the prospect of
receiving presents, confirmed by the actual gift of two large knives
from myself, he became highly animated, loquacious, and agreeable. He
now ordered a plentiful supply of palm-wine, which he caused to pass
freely round; and, after staying with us about an hour, returned to his
own residence, from whence he shortly after sent us half a dozen yams.

There was a native priest resident in our hut, probably placed there to
observe our conduct, and who, for the whole morning, had been occupied
in smearing himself with coloured clay. We noticed that this man,
during our visit, performed every morning a few religious ceremonies,
and repeated prayers, in which the natives appeared to join. After the
King's departure, he began to exercise some of the more mysterious
functions of his office. I know not what the occasion was, but the
ceremony consisted in frequent repetitions of certain short sentences,
in which the individual on whom he was operating occasionally joined;
and, in the intervals between these sentences, he shook a bundle of
rods over the head of the latter, making, at the same time, a noise
which resembled the squeaking of a pig.

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