A Voyage Round the World, Vol. I (of ?) by James Holman

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Happy the climate where the beau
Wears the same suit for use and show,
And at a small expense your wife,
If once well pink'd, is clothed for life.

Their lords and masters contrive to keep them in great subjection, and
accustom them to carry their burdens; they evince also a considerable
degree of jealousy, and shew evident marks of displeasure, whenever
strangers pay attentions to them. As, however, this is equally the case
whether the lady be young or old, it is not improbable that it may, in
some measure, arise from their considering it too great a condescension
on their parts to notice persons whom they deem so inferior. They rarely
brought them to the ship, and for some time did not allow them to appear
at market. If we are to credit our people, some of the young women are
great jilts, and very expert in wheedling them out of iron and other
property, under pretence of admitting them into their favour, and then
running away, with a laugh at their credulity.

Mr. Jeffery witnessed the following ludicrous occurrence. He went one
day, for the purpose of barter, to a part of the shore eastward of Hay
river, where the surf was too great to allow his boat to remain on the
beach, and he was, therefore, compelled to lie off in deep water; this,
however, did not prevent the natives from carrying on their traffic.
Some young women, in particular, came off to the boat, bringing a
calabash of palm-wine in each hand, and treading the water so soon as
they were out of their depth. These they contrived to deliver safe,
without the wine becoming in the slightest degree impregnated with the
briny wave. One of these females, having been taken into the boat, began
to ingratiate herself into the favour of an honest tar, who, nothing
loath, seated her near him, with his arm around her neck. At this
juncture, the boat beginning to move, she made a sudden plunge over the
side, and nearly carried the astonished seaman into the water; in short,
he only escaped a good ducking by laying fast hold of the seat. The lady
now, in an instant, dived under the boat, and, reappearing at some
distance on the opposite side, swam, laughing, to the shore, evidently
much amused at Jack's surprise and disappointment.

This was not the only instance Mr. Jeffery met with of the superior
talents of the fair sex, in swimming and diving. On one occasion, having
thrown into the sea a few small pieces of iron which had been rejected
in barter, a number of natives of both sexes dashed after them, with a
view to their recovery, when it was evident that the females were the
more active and successful.

To elucidate more fully the character of the native women, I shall
conclude my account of them with the details of an occurrence which
possesses enough of the romantic to be capable of exciting, in the hands
of a better painter than I am, an interest in the bosoms of such of my
fair readers as may delight in tales of love and jealousy, with their
sequel of rage and revenge. A female, about twenty-five years of age,
who resided at a village in the neighbourhood of our settlement, had
been guilty of an offence, probably infidelity to her husband, which
subjected her to the dreadful penalty of having her hands cut off.
Hoping to avert this punishment, she adopted the resolution, accompanied
by her child, a fine and engaging boy of two years old, of entering our
lines, and throwing herself on our protection. Captain Harrison received
her favourably, and, for additional safety, sent her on board the Eden,
where she remained several days before any inquiry was made respecting
her. Although evidently of much firmness and decision of character, her
personal appearance was by no means attractive, the face being greatly
seamed with scars, and the abdomen tattooed all over. Captain Owen
directed her to be placed under the care of our European females, who,
either from envy or the force of habit, not approving the Eve-like dress
in which she came on board, immediately clothed her in blue cotton
garments. The poor child of nature, unused to such incumbrance, which
probably, in her opinion, served only to irritate the skin, and prevent
the contact of the refreshing atmosphere, felt any thing but easy, or
gratified with this addition to her circumstances, and availed herself,
at first, of every opportunity to lay it aside; but our unrelenting
countrywomen were equally zealous in persisting to replace it. At
length, she either became more accustomed to it, or aware of the
necessity of compliance with the wishes of her new friends; this effort
was, however, not unaccompanied by some ludicrous occurrences: for
instance, whenever her tormentors were out of sight, she lost no time in
tucking the grievance up round the waist, and dropping it below the
shoulders from above, thus leaving her limbs, and the general surface,
as free as nature intended them to be. On being taken on shore some days
after, and placed under the protection of the wife of a seaman who had
charge of the guns and ordnance stores, she had become sufficiently
reconciled to her new dress to wear it with less apparent inconvenience;
she was, indeed, once caught tripping, having one evening taken an
opportunity of throwing it off, when finding herself light and free,
like a bird on the wing, she ran into the jungle, where she frisked
about and enjoyed herself for some time; after which she returned to the
seaman's hut, and resumed her dress.

When this woman had been with us about a week, her husband came to
Captain Harrison, bearing with him a present of two calabashes of
palm-wine, and a couple of fowls, intimating his wish to have the child
restored to him. With regard to his wife, he at this time shewed no
anxiety to recover her; he afterwards, however, returned with a
deputation of chiefs, and expressed his wish to have both of them
restored to him. This being represented to Captain Owen, in order to
convince them that she was under no restraint, he conducted her to the
boundary line, and, pointing first to her countrymen, and then to our
settlement, gave her to understand that she was at liberty to make her
choice. One of the chiefs now advanced, and taking her by the hand,
evinced his intention of leading her away, but Captain Owen would not
permit this without her free consent; and, that his presence might be no
restraint, left her to walk with her husband on the outside of the
boundary line, attended by a sailor armed with a musket. They had not
walked many paces, before five natives started from the bush and
attempted to carry her off by force, when she immediately ran towards
the sailor, and putting her hand on his musket, intimated her wish that
he would fire at them. He did so, and they all immediately scampered
away as fast as they could, leaving her to return with the sailor to his
hut. Foiled in this attempt, the husband soon after came again and
induced her to permit him to stay the night with her, and to take away
the child in the morning, under the promise of bringing it back next
day; a promise which he failed to perform, and which rendered the lady
so indignant, that, although he afterwards came to visit her himself,
bringing some fowls and palm-wine as a peace-offering, she persisted in
rejecting all compromise. This produced a violent quarrel, which ended
in their parting in high wrath, the husband threatening to return in the
night and inflict some dreadful vengeance upon her for it, but he did
not dare to carry his threats into execution.

I regret that my circumstances do not permit me to investigate the
general aspect and natural history of this island, as it abounds with
many interesting subjects which would well repay the trouble of inquiry.
It is to be hoped that Government will ere long send out some
intelligent naturalist for the purpose. The general appearance of the
island is rocky and volcanic; on the north-eastern extremity, where our
settlement is situated, one mountain, named Clarence Peak, rises to the
elevation of 10,655 feet above the level of the sea, the easiest ascent
to which is from its eastern side, being only interrupted by a few
valleys of no great depth, while the western side exhibits a series of
chasms and precipices, the sides of which from the sea appear almost
perpendicular. The southern part of the island, although the least
populous, is very picturesquely mountainous, being broken into several
peaks, each supposed to be from one to three thousand feet in elevation,
with numerous streams and beautiful cataracts descending in various
parts and directions. In consequence of the hilly nature of the country
admitting of no lodgment of water, we have reason to believe that few
marshes exist throughout the island, a circumstance which must
contribute greatly to its salubrity.

The soil of that part of the country with which we are best acquainted,
is of a red argillaceous nature, generally forming a stratum of nine or
ten feet in thickness, lying over one of sandstone, in which are
imbedded fragments of lava; the latter stratum, at Point William,
appears to decline to the east, at an angle of ten or twelve degrees.

The whole of the island is most luxuriantly wooded, even to within three
or four hundred feet of its highest peaks, while some cleared spots,
particularly in the north-east part, which is the most populous and
cultivated, affords evidences of its great fertility. There is an
immense variety of timber, comprising some of the finest trees in the
world. I have already mentioned the Indian-rubber tree as indigenous
here. The island also produces a species of black pepper, and we have
reason to believe that cloves and nutmegs are to be met with. Yams are
cultivated in abundance; they are remarkably fine and large, and
constitute the principal food of the natives. Of this root they prepare
a food called foo-foo, made by beating a quantity of well boiled ones
together for a long time in a wooden mortar, which forms it into a
highly tenacious mass, somewhat similar to bird-lime, but this mode of
preparing them is not peculiar to Fernando Po, for it is commonly
practised among the African nations. There is also a variety of other
edible plants, particularly the eddoe, which is well known in the West
Indies, and whose leaves, when young, form a good substitute for
spinach. It is in general use when yams are out of season. A few
plantains have also been brought to us. Wild fruits, not generally
known, are found here; but there do not appear to be any oranges,
lemons, limes, pine-apples, bananas, sour-sop, or sugar-canes, which are
peculiar to such climates.

The following is the mode adopted for procuring the sap of the
palm-tree, commonly known by the name of palm-wine: the lower branches
of the tree having been cut off near the trunk, the sap exudes
abundantly from the extremity of the divided part, and is received in
calabashes appended thereto, which are secured from the aggressions of
insects by enclosing the mouth of the vessel with the end of the branch,
by leaves, and secured with wooden pins. The natives are remarkably
expert in ascending the tree for the purpose of attaching and removing
the calabashes; to assist them, they make use of a hoop sufficiently
large to encircle the trunk, and allow, also, the body to move freely
within it. This the individual moves upwards or downwards whenever he
wants to change the position of his feet, according as he wishes to
ascend or descend.

The juice, when procured, is, in the first instance, sweet, and not
unlike cyder, but rapidly undergoes a process of fermentation, by which,
in the course of two or three hours, it acquires a slightly vinous
flavour: in both those states I found it a very pleasant beverage. If
procured in the morning,[31] by the afternoon it becomes slightly acid,
and, on the following morning, perfectly sour: sufficient alcohol is,
however, formed to produce considerable exhilarating effect, when taken
in even moderate quantity; but, when drank inordinately, it stupefies
and intoxicates. The natives, notwithstanding they are fond of it, much
to their credit, rarely abuse this bountiful gift of nature, and, in
this respect, are well deserving of imitation by more civilized people.

The preparation of the palm-oil is conducted an follows:--A circular and
slightly concave hole, about a yard in diameter and a foot deep, is made
in the ground and paved with small stones. In this hole the palm-nuts
are beaten into a pulp, and the oil afterwards extracted. It is then
preserved and brought to market in native boxes, each containing from a
quart to a gallon.

The island abounds with monkeys, which are eaten by the natives, many
are of considerable size, some having been killed above 50 lb. weight.
Several species have been noticed, particularly one with long, shaggy,
jet-black hair; another with short silver-grey hair; and a third auburn,
inclining to gold, with the hair of an intermediate length; so that it
might be said we have gold and silver monkeys. The Kroomen, who are very
partial to their flesh, hunt them successfully with sticks and stones.
If any one makes them a present of a monkey, after feasting on the
carcase, they thankfully return the skin, well dried.

The only domestic animal on the island is a dog of a peculiar cur
species, very diminutive, and of a red and white colour; these we have
reason to believe the natives eat, and they use the under jaw for a
clapper to their rattles.

There is a great variety of fish; and also two species of turtle: viz.
the green, and hawksbill; the former good for eating, and the latter
only desirable for its shell.

It is now time that I revert to the proceedings which had taken place at
the settlement during my absence. The increased confidence of the
natives, and even violent proceedings, subsequently to our purchase of
land and establishment of a market, have already been noticed: the
numbers, indeed, which crowded within our boundary line, were immense;
and their conduct in wandering about the settlement, with a view of
inducing our people to make purchases, contrary to regulation, together
with the irregularities arising from the temptation to sell their tools,
to procure the means of privately feasting and tippling among the
bushes, became so obnoxious, that Captain Owen determined to remove the
market beyond the boundary line. He, therefore, directed the stakes to
be removed, and took measures for preventing any number of natives from
entering, in future, within the works, giving them to understand that no
barter could be made, excepting at the place appointed for that purpose.
The spot selected for the new market, was a point to the eastward beyond
Hay River. Although much pains were taken to convince the chiefs of the
advantages of this arrangement, it did not appear to give them
satisfaction; as, for several days, few natives were to be seen on
shore, and no canoes came off to the ship. It is probable that the
chiefs were holding a conference respecting the affair, a mode of
proceeding which they appear to adopt when any thing of moment occurs.

Two days afterwards Capt. Owen, accompanied by Capt. Harrison and Mr.
Jeffery, went to examine the shore to the eastward of Hay River, and
observing two canoes making towards a small cove, followed them, until
they landed at a village near the beach, the inhabitants of which
received him with every demonstration of friendly feeling, pawing the
gentlemen of the party with their clayey hands, and pressing upon them
so close, that they were also rubbing their bodies against their
clothes. At the same time, that they thus expressed their welcome, they
did not forget to solicit for iron, knives, and other presents. The
chief occupation of the people of this village was fishing; and as,
contrary to all other assemblages of the natives we had yet witnessed,
the larger proportion present consisted of women, it is probable that
the men were, at the time, engaged in that employment. Captain Owen
purchased a few articles from them, and expressed his intention of
establishing a market at the place; after which, he returned to his
boat, both parties appearing satisfied with each other.

Our market was for some days afterwards carried on at the above village
with reciprocal satisfaction, the supply of the several articles being
abundant. It was soon, however, evident, that the tribes who were
excluded by this arrangement, were by no means contented: and, as
Captain Owen was anxious to do justice to the whole, by giving each a
fair opportunity of barter, and as the immediate neighbourhood of the
settlement was more convenient for the greatest assemblage of persons
from the different tribes, he ordered, after first having a clear
understanding with the chiefs, a new market-place to be fenced in, near
the boundary line, which, from its situation and circumstances, ought to
be regarded as neutral ground. This establishment of a neutral ground,
was a measure of great importance and advantage, as we had now
discovered that the natives are not only divided into distinct tribes,
but that each tribe possesses a distinct portion of territory, and is
extremely jealous of admitting others within its boundaries. The new
market having been completed to-day, and a pole erected for the purpose
of hoisting a flag, during the appointed hours of barter, it was opened
about noon, with some ceremony, in consequence of hoisting, for the
first time on this island, an Union-jack, under the hearty cheers of a
large assembly, composed, perhaps, of as great a variety of people as
ever before witnessed the first display of the British flag in a foreign
land; comprising, besides our own countrymen and the inhabitants of the
island, natives of various parts of Africa. The ceremony concluded by
drinking palm-wine.

_Monday, Nov. 26_.--A circumstance unfortunately occurred to-day to
interrupt the good understanding so lately established. One of our black
labourers, who was occupied by himself in cutting wood within our lines,
had drunk some palm-wine, which had been offered to him, without his
having the means of paying for it; the natives, in consequence, forcibly
took from him the bill-hook he was using. The theft having been
communicated to Capt. Harrison, he assembled the chiefs who were at the
market, and explained the affair, when two of them, Chameleon and
Cut-throat, formed their respective followers into lines, each being
armed with his equipment of spears; a parley now took place between the
chiefs, who addressed their respective parties, with a view, no doubt,
of finding out the thieves. A man, having the appearance of a priest,
next harangued the whole body: each party in succession sang a war-song,
the chiefs going on one, and the men on both knees. Each party now
marched three times round a space which described a circle; after which,
those under Chameleon suddenly started off at full speed, and were
immediately followed by Cut-throat and his party, to the boundary of Hay
River. The stragglers of the former, in their flight, disencumbered
themselves of their yams, and calabashes of palm-wine, which the others,
on coming up, amused themselves with breaking to pieces. Thus ended this
curious specimen of war-like movements, which might appropriately be
called the Battle of the Calabashes; and is sufficient to prove that a
system of organization exists among the people, and confirms our former
opinions on this subject: for, on our first landing at Baracouta, we
perceived they had guards regularly stationed to watch and follow our
movements. This system, I have some reason to believe, extends itself
into the heart of the country, for, during my visit in the interior, I
was sensible the people were running about at all hours of the night,
ready for action. This may probably be the result of necessity, as the
different tribes, if we are to judge from the numerous large scars in
various parts of the body, are evidently engaged in frequent warfare
with each other.

_Tuesday, 27_.--Mr. Jeffery held a market to-day, at the village near
the beach; but an old chief, who had been named Bottle-nose, was
apparently, out of humour, probably in consequence of the affair at the
border-market the day before.

_Wednesday, 28_.--At the conclusion of the market, which was held at the
Bottle-nose village to-day, a party of chiefs came hallooing after Mr.
Jeffery, at the moment of his leaving the shore, but he did not offer to
return. They then followed along the beach in the direction of his boat,
until they nearly reached Hay River. He now perceived they held
something in their hands, which they gave him to understand, by signs,
was intended for him. This induced him to pull for the shore again, when
he found they had brought back the unfortunate bill-hook that had been
carried away on the preceding Monday: the men who had stolen it,
however, were not forthcoming. Mr. Jeffery conducted them to Clarence,
where an interview took place between Captains Owen and Harrison, and
some of the chiefs, at which the former directed a couple of iron hoops
to be given as a reward for the recovery of the bill-hook. After this,
several chiefs came on board, bringing with them a sheep as a
peace-offering, which the Captain immediately ordered to be killed for
their own entertainment. In this operation, they assisted very
effectually; for one of them took his knife, and after skinning the head
and neck, the animal being yet alive, cut its throat and extracted the
windpipe, which was given to our friend Cut-throat, who first slapped it
for some time about his shoulders, and afterwards, having merely warmed
it on the fire, devoured it voraciously. The skin being removed, others
of the natives tore off with their teeth, and ate the portions of raw
flesh which remained attached to it; while some cut off portions from
the animal, and disposed of them in the same manner. The remainder of
the body was partially dressed on the coals, and dispatched by the party
generally. Notwithstanding this demonstration of their high relish for
raw meat, it is remarkable that two of the chiefs, Cut-throat and
Good-tempered Jack, who were honoured with a second dinner at Captain
Owen's table, when presented with meat supposed to be done to their
taste, shewed a repugnance to it, and wished it to be put on the fire
again. Cut-throat had shewn so much disinterested zeal in our favour, on
various occasions, and particularly in the affair of the bill-hook, that
Captain Owen took the opportunity of rewarding him for it, by presenting
him with some iron, and a pair of shoes. It is singular, that he is the
only native we have, as yet, been conversant with, who never begged for
any thing.

_Thursday, 29_.--Our little establishment (considering the few hands,
and the many irons we have in the fire,) is making a rapid progress. The
greatest activity pervades every department. The whole of our people,
whether ashore or afloat, live uncommonly well, having plenty of yams
and palm-wine served out to them daily, with fowls and fish
occasionally, which are extra provisions, supplied gratuitously; the
former being purchased from the natives with iron hoop, the latter taken
by our fishermen. We have also caught a few hawksbill, and green turtle,
and occasionally dig turtles' eggs from the sand on the beach.

_Saturday, Dec. 1_.--Our establishment has hitherto been remarkably
healthy; the sickness which has occurred, being almost entirely the
result of accidental wounds, or the bites of musquitos and sand-flies;
the latter, being irritated by rubbing, have produced, in some
instances, very serious sores, which have baffled the greatest attention
of our surgeons: one feature in these ulcers is, that frequent changes
of applications are required, no individual remedy appearing to agree,
at farthest, for more than five days; generally, but three or four; nor
has any kindly disposition to heal shewn itself, until a degree of
salivation has been produced, by giving the patient a grain of calomel,
night and morning. Both my companions in the country are unfortunately
on the sick list,--Elwood, with remittent fever, with which he was
seized immediately after his return; the other, Debenham, in consequence
of getting his legs bitten by insects. I have myself, thank God, escaped
without illness or injury of any kind.

_Sunday, 2_.--Two chiefs, Cut-throat and Bottle-nose, with some other
natives of consequence, dined with Captain Owen to-day, who was
entertaining a party of the officers and other gentlemen attached to the
establishment. The natives always appear particularly gratified in being
allowed to dine on board, and Captain Owen, as a matter of policy, in
tending to promote a friendly intercourse, frequently indulges them in
this way; it is offering, however, no trifling sacrifice at the shrines
of the gods of friendship and cleanliness, to sit down with them, for
their bodies not unfrequently emitted a most offensive odour,
particularly when much heated by exertion, and the influence of a
tropical climate. Imagine the action of these upon a mixture of
perspiration, rancid palm-oil, clay and dust, the whole producing an
effluvium little inferior to that which Sir John Falstaff describes to
have been generated in his ducking-basket, 'The rankest compound of
villanous smells that ever offended nostrils.' Besides, as our guests
were all dressed in buff, it was necessary to clean, after them, the
chairs and other places on which they might happen to sit. Cut-throat,
and one of his tribe, slept on board, on a sail placed between two guns.

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