A Voyage Round the World, Vol. I (of ?) by James Holman

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_Monday, 3_.--After breakfast, our visitors took their leave,
accompanied by Mr. Jeffery, who, in consequence of a previous
arrangement, was going to spend a couple of days with them, at a village
about eight miles in the country, and from which he returned at the
expiration of the appointed time, well pleased with the attention and
hospitality that had been shewn him. A remuneration of bar-iron was the
price of these civilities.

Our fishing party have taken in their seine to-day, two flying-fish of
the gurnet species, and a hawksbill turtle. A party of natives from King
Cove, headed by a chief named Toby Limp, came on board with a native
woman, who was far advanced in that happy teeming state which is
peculiar to females in all parts of the world. This was, in fact, one of
the few instances of any female coming on board: for, although old
Bottle-nose had once brought two alongside the ship, he kept them
concealed at the bottom of his canoe: we have some reason, however, to
believe that his original intention was to have honoured us with a full
introduction, but that he waived it in consequence of finding the chief
of another tribe in close conference with Captain Owen. With respect to
Mr. Toby Limp's lady, the general opinion, drawn from various signs and
appearances, was, that she was intended as a sort of present, or
peace-offering, to the Captain; and what amused us exceedingly, was the
peculiar mode which Toby adopted of recommending her more fully to his
good opinion, by frequently passing his hand over her abdomen, while,
regarding Captain Owen with a most animated countenance, he seemed to
express something like the following: 'Look here! surely this is worthy
of your attention.' But, however powerful the native charms of this lady
might have been, and in spite of the above felicitous mode of 'showing
her off,' the speculation proved totally ineffectual. Another
circumstance concurred in diminishing the effect of any impression that
might have been made, namely, that three or four clay-coloured chiefs
appeared to be co-partners with Mr. Toby in the affections of the lady.
The whole party passed the night together on board, between two guns. So
much for the delicacy of sentiment among savages.

The following is a specimen of the delicacy of this people in another
respect. On the occasion of Captain Owen visiting the brother of the
King of Baracouta, a calabash of palm-wine was produced, which, in
consequence of some imperfection in the vessel, leaked out its contents;
in order to cure this defect, the hospitable chief took off his hat,
and, scraping with his thumb-nail a portion of the clay and grease from
his head, effectually checked further leakage, with this _veritable_
Fernando Po cement.

_Tuesday, 4_.--An increase in the number of the sick has been reported
to-day, several of the men on board, and of the mechanics and labourers
on shore being affected with ulcers of the hospital gangrene kind. One
seaman of the Eden, has had his leg amputated above the knee, in
consequence of the nature of the ulceration. Having gone on shore this
morning, I had the pleasure of finding the works in rapid progress; the
floor plates were being laid in one of the frame houses; the roof of a
large saw-pit was also being put on; while a great part of the labourers
were occupied in bringing up some frames of houses which had lately been
landed from the transport. We were treated to-day with a monkey for
dinner, cooked in the manner of an Irish stew, with yams as a substitute
for potatoes: I must admit that I found it by no means a disagreeable
food, which is not to be wondered at from its being a very clean animal,
living on vegetable substances. Our fishermen have taken one green, and
one hawksbill turtle; also a skate, weighing ninety pounds; and two
buckets full of other fish of various descriptions, principally mullet.

Lieutenant Vidal brought a native on board, charged with the following
crimes: namely, stealing a dinner knife from on board the steam-vessel;
and an attempt, in conjunction with others, to plunder our forge, on
Adelaide Island. Lieutenant Vidal, fortunately passing in that
direction, observed a canoe lying on the beach. This he secured. The men
belonging to it, however, contrived to make their escape in another
canoe, but left behind them two of their hats. The prisoner had the
audacity to venture on board the steam-vessel, in hopes of recovering
the lost canoe; he was immediately attempted to be seized, but he
contrived, in consequence of his greasy skin, to give our men the slip,
and effect his escape. Yet he was not deterred from making a second
attempt, having, as he imagined, sufficiently disguised himself with a
different hat and head-dress; but he was immediately recognised, and,
having been enticed into the cabin, effectually secured. Captain Owen
ordered him to be put into irons, with the intention of keeping him
under confinement for a week, and then dismissing him with some slight
punishment.

_Wednesday, 5_.--A brig was observed in the offing which had the
appearance of a slaver. The steam-vessel was immediately ordered in
chase, and returned in the evening, reporting her to be an English brig,
from Liverpool, bound for the Cameroons.

_Thursday, 6_.--Our tender, the Horatio, sailed this week for Sierra
Leone. Among other supernumeraries sent in her, were a serjeant and two
privates of the Royal African Corps. The conduct of these men was so
notoriously bad, that Captain Owen apprehended their example would
corrupt the black soldiers with whom they were associated. I cannot
avoid again calling in question the policy of our Government in sending
out condemned soldiers to the Colonial African Corps; for nothing tends
more to degrade the general character of our country, in the opinion of
the native Africans, who are too apt to form their estimate of our
morality, from these specimens of their masters.

_Friday, 7_.--The unloading of the transport which came with us from
England was completed to-day. Among other stores, she brought out the
frames of a block-house; six large and ten small dwelling-houses; six
long eighteen pounders, and two long nines.

_Saturday, 8_.--Lieutenant Caldwell, of the Royal Marines, died this
morning, and was buried at four in the afternoon. He had never been in
health since our departure from England, or even been on shore,
excepting for an hour or two at Sierra Leone. He was to have returned by
the first opportunity to England, and, with that view, had, previously
to his death, been removed from the Eden to the steam-vessel.

_Monday, 10_.--Our fishing party took to-day no less than ten turtle in
their seine. The native prisoner having now been confined six days out
of the seven awarded him. Captain Owen thought it better to inflict his
intended punishment of thirty-nine lashes to-day, in order that his
immediate rage might have time to subside, before being set at liberty
on the morrow. It was accordingly carried into effect; and, although he
made a most lusty bellowing on the occasion, the whip-cord appeared to
make very little impression on his thick skin. I believe he deemed
himself peculiarly fortunate in coming off so well, as, judging from his
signs, he expected, at least, to have had his throat cut. During his
confinement, he roared and blubbered frequently, particularly whenever
he was sensible of any canoe approaching the ship. His countrymen,
however, appeared to care little about him; on the contrary, they
frequently mimicked his noises, as if in ridicule. His father, indeed,
and one or two other relatives, took some interest in his fate, and
offered ransom for him.

_Tuesday, Dec. 11_.--Captain Owen, at an early hour, went on board the
steam-vessel to commence his intended survey of the island, and did me
the honour of inviting me to accompany him. At seven o'clock we left
Maidstone Bay, and proceeded towards a place to the eastward of Point
William, where Captain Owen intended to land his native prisoner, and
from whence he was expecting to receive on board Cut-throat,
Bottle-nose, and another chief, known by the name of Good-tempered Jack.
The two latter only kept their promise, but, on coming on board, they
were so impressed with fear and astonishment, particularly when the
paddles began to move, that their hearts failed them, and they retreated
to the boat with all possible celerity. The prisoner was allowed to
accompany them; but no sooner did the boat approach the shore, than,
doubting the reality of his freedom, until entirely out of our reach, he
jumped overboard, and, alternately swimming and diving, as if to elude
pursuit, he, at length, reached the shore. About a week afterwards, he
ventured to make his appearance on the beach, accompanied by
Bottle-nose, but was careful not to approach our party, until the
officer on duty threw out a signal of encouragement, when he came
forward, exchanged his palm-wine for iron hoop, and afterwards joined in
the laugh with those around him.

Pursuing our voyage, about noon, a party of natives were observed on the
beach, and Capt. Owen determined on paying them a visit, ordering a boat
to be lowered for the purpose. Unfortunately, however, it being
necessary, while in the act of lowering, to make a few retrograde
strokes of the paddle, the boat was drawn into the vortex on the right
hand, and nearly cut in two. By this accident, one of the seamen who
were in it, was thrown within the paddle, but, miraculously, taken out
unhurt; another made his escape on board the vessel; while two more were
set adrift in the sea; they were, however, soon picked up by a second
boat, which was instantly lowered, and which also succeeded in
recovering the wreck of the first. On approaching the shore, the surf
was found to be so strong, that Captain Owen was obliged to communicate
with the natives from the boat.

A few yams were purchased for some pieces of iron-hoop, which the
natives were so eager to become possessed of, that, daring the exchange,
they trembled exceedingly from the intensity of their desire. A piece
was intentionally thrown into the sea, with the view of giving them a
scramble: they all immediately darted with the utmost eagerness into the
water, and exerted themselves most strenuously, until one had the luck
to find it; when the remainder left him in quiet possession, without
evincing the slightest disposition to deprive him of his treasure.

A small island lay off the shore of this place, which Capt. Owen did not
consider of sufficient importance to induce him to give it a name. We
now continued our survey along the south-eastern side of the island,
advancing at the rate of six or seven miles an hour, until half-past
five in the evening, when we arrived a-breast of the south-eastern point
(Cape Barrow): we then took our bearings, let the steam down, and stood
off the land, under easy sail, for the night.

_Wednesday, Dec. 12_.--An hour after midnight we tacked, and stood
towards the land; at daylight, got the steam on, and furled the sails,
and at eight in the morning we were off the same point at which our
survey of the previous evening had concluded, the current having, during
the night, carried us to the south-west, at the rate of about a mile and
a half per hour. The part of the island we were now coasting along, was
possessed of a very considerable degree of sublimity, the shore being
bold and rocky, with various picturesque cataracts descending from the
mountains; and the whole face of the country having a wild appearance.
During the forenoon, we had two high peaks in view, one of which Captain
Owen named after Dr. Burn, the surgeon of the Eden, who first observed
it. About half-past ten, we passed a snug little cove, where the natives
were occupied in building canoes, and where we observed a considerable
quantity of wood piled up, intended for making paddles. Soon afterwards,
we passed the entrance of a river, which, out of compliment to myself,
Captain Owen named Holman River. A remarkably large stone lay on the
beach near its mouth. At noon, we were off a bluff cape, which received
the name of Cape Eden. At this time our previously fine weather
disappeared, and we had, throughout the remainder of the day, a very
hazy atmosphere, with occasional rain.

About one o'clock, a rakish-looking schooner made her appearance, which,
from her manoeuvres, such as frequently altering her course, as if she
wished to avoid us, we suspected to be a slave-vessel; we, therefore,
made full sail in chase, and at three o'clock, had approached near
enough to fire a gun at her, when she immediately hoisted English
colours, brought to, and proved to be the African, Captain John Smith,
twenty-five days from Sierra Leone, and seven from Cape Coast Castle,
laden with provisions for the colony, and having on board
Hospital-Assistant Cowen, of the Medical Staff, who had volunteered to
join the establishment. Captain Owen, having received his letters,
ordered her to proceed to Maidstone Bay, while we stood in for George's
Bay, on the western side of the island, where we came to anchor soon
after four o'clock.

_Thursday, Dec. 13_.--Soon after breakfast, Dr. Burn landed with three
men, and proceeded to a native village, about three miles from the
beach, where he was kindly received by an elderly chief, who appeared
well acquainted with our countrymen. He could pronounce 'King George,'
and a few other English words, and wore as an ornament, suspended from
his neck, a brass plate, which had belonged to the cap of a soldier of
the Royal African Corps; he had also another brass plate with G.R. upon
it. This chief, with his son, accompanied Dr. Burn on board, and was
entertained by Captain Owen with fish, yams, and palm-wine; at length,
he began to express much anxiety to be gone, and was sent on shore.
During the morning, Captain Owen and Lieutenant Badgeley occupied
themselves with surveying the bay: after this, we went ashore, when many
of the natives assembled round us, and behaved themselves very civilly,
although they were, as usual, importunate for iron; offering in exchange
yams, palm-wine, fowls, &c. &c. Only one canoe came off to us at this
place, containing twelve men, who had a few yams with them, which they
appeared very indifferent about parting with; at least, they demanded
very exorbitant prices, as a piece of iron for a single yam, for which,
at Maidstone Bay, we could have purchased eight or ten. We caught here a
large dog-fish, a species of ground shark.

_Friday, Dec. 14_.--At day-break we were again under weigh, and stood
out of George's Bay, making a little to the southward of it, for the
purpose of resuming our survey at the point where we left off on the
preceding day, in order to give chase to the schooner; we then returned
into the bay, running close along, and surveying its shores, leaving it
at its northern extremity, and passing round Goat Island; we then stood
for Maidstone Bay, where we anchored at one in the afternoon, having
surveyed the intermediate coast, as well us the whole extent of the bay,
from Cape Bullen to Point William, from whence we had commenced the
survey. Thus we completed the circumnavigation of the island.

I shall conclude my account of this short voyage, by giving a few of the
geographical and meteorological observations, which have been made since
our arrival, with every due attention to accuracy.

Names of Places. | N. lat. | E. lon.
----------------------------------------|---------------|--------------
Cape Bullen | 3 deg. 47' 3" | 8 deg. 39' 4"
Point William, or Clarence Town | 3 45 8 | 8 45 0
Cape Horatio | 3 46 25 | 8 54 4
Cape Barrow | 3 11 5 | 8 40 4
Point Charles (S.W. of St. George's Bay)| 3 26 9 | 8 27 7
Goat Island (N.E. of St. George's Bay) | 3 26 9 | 8 32 8
Cape Badgeley, or West Point | 3 19 0 | 8 24 7
Cape Vidal, or East Point | 3 39 3 | 8 56 3
Peak of Clarence Mountain | 3 34 6 | 8 41 5
Peak of the Cameroon Mountain, | 4 13 5 | 9 9 5
on the Mainland of Africa | |
----------------------------------------|---------------|--------------

The Cameroon Mountain bears, from Clarence Peak, N. 32 deg. 30 min. E.
at a distance of 48 miles; and from Clarence Town, N. 27 deg. E., the
distance being 31-1/2 miles; while the nearest point from the mainland
is only about 20 miles. From the proximity of this island to the
equinoctial, there is only 14 minutes difference between the longest and
shortest day; and the temperature is so equable, that the thermometer,
throughout the year, never varies more than 10 degrees in the 24 hours.
The spring-tides have a rise and fall between seven and eight feet; and
it is high water all round the island, at the full and change of the
moon, at half after four o'clock. During our absence, the first house
erected in the settlement, had been completed; and Mr. Glover, who was
to inhabit it, had invited his friends to the house-warming on the day
of our return. This house consisted of only one floor, twenty feet
square, and built on piles, with a store-room beneath, the sides of
which are constituted by the piles. Ten other houses, of similar form
and dimensions, are in progress of construction, besides six larger
ones, of forty feet square, and the block-house, which measures fifty by
thirty; the whole consisting of single floors, with store-rooms
underneath.

_Saturday, Dec. 15_.--The system of labour among the workmen is, to
commence at six in the morning, and leave off at eleven for dinner,
recommencing at one, and concluding at half-past five; after which,
during the remainder of the day, they are allowed to amuse themselves.
The labourers and mechanics have been formed into a militia corps, under
the command of Capt. Harrison, with the rank of Major, and are
occasionally taught to march _en militaire_, and exercised with the
pike, which is, at present, their only weapon; the Eden, having but
twenty muskets to spare, which have been distributed among the
artificers who came out with us from England.

This afternoon, our transport, the Diadem, sailed for Cape Coast Castle.
In the evening, the bugles at Clarence sounded an alarm, in consequence
of the flames of some burning brush-wood accidentally communicating with
one of the huts. It was fortunately soon extinguished, without any
serious injury having been sustained.

_Monday, Dec. 17_.--The Diadem, which sailed on Saturday, was detained
during the whole of yesterday within sight of the island; but, about
noon to-day, a fresh wind springing up from the eastward, she was soon
out of sight. A few days since, our gardener, while digging in Paradise,
turned up a Spanish copper-coin of Charles III., dated 1774, probably a
relic of some ship which had touched here for water.

_Tuesday, Dec. 18_.--Anderson, a black soldier of the Royal African
Corps, whom I have previously mentioned as an interpreter on our arrival
here, was to-day found sleeping on his post, and committed to the
guard-house, from whence he contrived to escape into the woods, with a
view of seeking protection from the natives. Another black soldier was
punished this morning for having quitted his post, and lost his musket,
a few days since, in the following manner. A party of Kroomen being
employed in cutting down wood, some of the natives contrived to steal an
axe and bill-hook. The theft, however, was immediately detected, and a
scuffle ensued, during which this soldier, who was a sentinel near the
spot, threw down his musket, and ran away. The musket was taken
possession of by a native, but subsequently recovered by a Krooman, not,
however, without his first receiving a severe cut on his hand by the
knife of the native. After throwing a few spears, one of which slightly
wounded the head Krooman, the natives got clear off with the bill-hook
and axe. A spear was also thrown at Mr. Davis, the master's assistant,
who was accidentally passing at the time, and whom one of the natives
had even the audacity to attempt to make prisoner; a fate which he only
escaped, from his shirt giving way under the grasp.

When this affair was made known to Captain Harrison, he immediately
proceeded to the market-place, and finding some chiefs there,
communicated to them what had happened. Cut-throat, who was present,
instantly arose, and, after making a speech to his countrymen, formed
them into line, each being armed with the usual number of spears. After
singing a war-song, and making three circular tours, or evolutions, the
whole started off in quest of the thieves, and, in less than an hour,
returned with the axe and bill-hook. Some few days after this event, one
of the natives, who had taken an active part in it, had the effrontery
to enter our lines for the purpose of selling his palm-wine, when he was
immediately secured by the Kroomen, and conducted a prisoner to Captain
Harrison, who sent him on board the Eden, where he was put into irons;
however, this man had committed a previous offence, namely, having
struck Mr. Jeffery two severe blows with a stick, about a month since,
which compelled him to give up the pursuit of a fellow, who had been
endeavouring to impose two calabashes of water upon him, instead of
palm-wine.

During the last week, we have had little communication with the natives,
and our supplies of palm-wine, &c., have consequently run short. This
circumstance, we are informed, is attributable to their being occupied
in the yam-plantations. I am inclined to infer, that, if the necessity
really exists for thus employing the whole of the inhabitants in the
culture of this root, the population of the island is not so great as we
have been led to consider it.

_Wednesday, 19_.--At half-past one this morning, a loud splash was heard
in the water, succeeded by the cry of, 'A man overboard.' A boat was
immediately sent, and from the phosphorescence of the water, some one
was discovered swimming towards the shore. On approaching him, he turned
round in the direction of the Eden; and, when within twenty yards of the
ship, he all at once disappeared, and was not seen afterwards. On
inquiry, it was found that the native prisoner who had been confined in
irons on the forecastle, for his participation in the affray I have so
lately described, had contrived to effect his escape. To accomplish
this, he had put his hand down the scuttle over the coppers, and taken
from thence the iron that turns the handles of the dischargers. With the
point of this he had contrived to break off one of the sides of the
padlock which secured his fetters, and thus setting himself at liberty,
he crossed the deck to the gangway, opposite to where the sentry was
placed, when he mounted the railings, and immediately plunged into the
sea. It is singular, with respect to this prisoner, that his countrymen
shewed very little solicitude about him: and we therefore had reason to
think that he was no favourite with them. When they did inquire after
him, it was to know whether we had not cut his throat. The King of
Baracouta's brother once asked Captain Owen what he intended to do with
him; and, on being informed that he meant to keep him for a time in
irons, and then, after a gentle flagellation, dismiss him, expressed his
astonishment at this lenity, and made signs that we ought to cut his
throat. It is true we sometimes had, as might be expected, very
different versions of the signs of these natives; but, in the present
instance, they could not well be misunderstood.

Captain Owen, attended by a small party of marines, went on shore at an
early hour, to hold a Court of Inquiry on twelve African soldiers, for
refusing to attend the punishment of their comrade (an Ashantee) on the
preceding day. They were found guilty, and sentenced to receive three
hundred lashes each. After a part of this punishment had been inflicted,
they were sent on board the Eden.

_Thursday, 20_.--Anderson, the African soldier, who escaped from
confinement on Tuesday, was met in the woods this morning by a serjeant
of his company, to whom he immediately surrendered himself, and who
placed him under charge of another soldier. Apprehensive, however, of
the consequences of his double offence, he shortly after contrived to
give his guard the slip, and again effected his escape. The above
mentioned serjeant also detected a labourer in the act of lowering a
piece of iron from a cliff, with the intention of selling it to the
natives, whose canoes were lying off the beach. Having first secured the
offender, he then fired his musket at one of the canoes, without
injuring, or intending to injure, the men whom it contained, and the aim
was so unerring, that the ball penetrated through the bottom of the
canoe, in such a manner that it immediately began to fill with water;
this terrified the natives so much, that they all leaped overboard, and
swimming to another canoe, left their own, with her cargo of sheep,
fowls, &c. to its fate. This might truly be termed a good hit.

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