A Voyage Round the World, Vol. I (of ?) by James Holman

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_Tuesday, 19_.--Mr. Galler ran after, and secured, a native who was
making off with an iron hoop.

But, lo! what dangers doth environ,
The man that meddleth with cold iron,

for, on the following day, Captain Owen ordered the thief to have his
head shaved, for the purpose of shaming him out of the repetition of his
crime, thus making him an object of ridicule, among his own, as well as
our people; and, as the natives display no small degree of dandyism in
dressing their hair, he hoped that this 'rape of the locks,' would have
a beneficial effect: he, however, considered an additional punishment
necessary, in consequence of the frequency of the offence, iron-stealing
having become a very common practice; he, therefore, ordered the
offender to receive thirty-nine lashes; but at the twenty-fifth he
fainted, from fear, no doubt, certainly not from the severity of the
chastisement; however, he was immediately taken down and carried into
the guard-house, where he continued bellowing, in a most frightful
manner, for a long time.

_Monday, 25_.--We have had very close weather for several days, with much
thunder and lightning during the whole of last night. At eight o'clock
this morning, a heavy tornado came on, the rain and wind continuing for
more than three hours; the greatest force of the hurricane was, however,
expended in the first hour, from which time it gradually diminished; this
produced a very agreeable change in the state of the atmosphere, the
thermometer having fallen, during the tornado, from 91 deg. to 78 deg. F.
being the lowest degree we have yet experienced.

_Wednesday, 27_.--The Diadem, transport, Lieut. Woodman, agent, sailed
this morning for Sierra Leone, and England, by which conveyance I sent
letters, and a few curiosities.

_Friday, 29_.--Mr. Wood was sent, with a party of men, to assist the
gunner in erecting a battery on Adelaide Island. Having made bankrupts
of the natives in the yam market, the African, schooner, sailed to-day
for the purpose of procuring them, in other parts of the island.

_Saturday, March 1_.--Some days since, a native having been detected
stealing a knife out of Capt. Smith's store, he was sent on board the
Eden to have his head shaved, and be kept in irons for a week; the time
having expired this morning, he was ordered to receive thirty-nine
lashes previously to his dismissal. He bore his punishment well, and was
going away, when, about 300 yards from the place, he fell down in a
fainting fit, doubtless from the apprehension that he was not yet quite
out of our power. Mr. Cowan, the surgeon, ran to his assistance, but the
natives surrounded the patient, and would not allow him to receive
medical aid from us; this was of the less consequence, as their method
of proceeding proved completely effectual. They first bound a strong
narrow leaf around the sufferer's body, stuffing as many more leaves
within the bandage as it would contain: they then chewed some vegetable
substance until it was reduced to a pulp, and when this preparation was
blown up into the nose and ears of the patient, it almost immediately
produced the desired effect.

There had been much thunder in the distance, and we had seen a good deal
of lightning playing about the Camaroon mountain for several days past;
but more particularly towards the morning.

_Saturday, 8_.--This being the tornado season, we have experienced one
almost daily, lasting however only a few hours, the rest of the
twenty-four being in part, very cloudy; and in part, very fine. The Lady
Combermere, of Liverpool, which anchored here last night, sailed this
afternoon to prosecute her voyage along the coast.

The African, schooner, Captain Smith, intending to sail this evening on
a trading voyage up the Calabar river, principally to procure bullocks
for our little colony, I was glad to avail myself of the opportunity of
going as a passenger, for the purpose of making further observations on
the habits and peculiarities of the people.

We left Maidstone bay about ten o'clock in the evening, taking with us,
by way of experiment, three native youths from the island, an event
which certainly augured well for the future advancement and civilization
of these islanders.

_Sunday, 9_.--We this morning saw a very large waterspout, which broke
within 200 yards of the vessel, and it is remarkable, that before it
broke, we observed it raining in five or six different parts of the
horizon, while it was quite fair, with the sun shining, in the
intermediate spaces. Soon after four in the afternoon, we entered the
Old Calabar river, and at sunset we anchored in three and a half fathoms
water; east end of Parrot Island, N.N.W. four or five miles.

_Monday, 10_.--Weather still variable. Got under weigh at daylight, but
it soon fell calm, and we made use of our sweeps. At noon, abreast of
James's Island; and at three, we anchored off Old Calabar, or Duke's
Town.

We found the brig Kent, Captain Cumings, still here; also, the ship
Agnes, Captain Charles, from Liverpool, for palm-oil; and a Spanish
schooner, from the Havannah, waiting for slaves. Captain Smith and I
accompanied Captain Cumings on shore to pay a visit to Duke Ephraim,
with whom Capt. Cumings was a great favourite, which proved a fortunate
circumstance for us. The schooner having last visited the place as a man
of war, she was received with suspicion, and it was extremely difficult
to convince the Duke and his people, that there was not a _ruse de
guerre_ intended by her reappearance as a mere trader.

_Tuesday, 11_.--A fine but very hot day. Paid a visit to the Duke after
breakfast, and in the afternoon went three miles down the river to visit
the Lady Combermere on her way up the river. In the evening we paid
another visit to the Duke, at which period, every day, he holds a sort
of levee for supercargoes, and Captains of vessels, to talk over "news."
Upon these occasions he discovers an acute knowledge of his own
interest. Remained on shore, and passed the night in the Duke's English
house, where his visitors always sleep, but none of his family, except a
few domestics in charge of it. This evening a tornado came on with heavy
rain.

_Wednesday, 12_.--A schooner, that had secreted herself further up the
river; dropped down and anchored off the town last night, after it
became dark, intending to take in her cargo of slaves during the night.
She completed her object before daylight, when she got under weigh, and
sailed down the river, without shewing any colours.

This day was the Calabar Sunday, but it was not kept as the usual
holiday, in consequence of the recent death of the Duke's favourite
brother. The funeral ceremony is horrible, but I feel bound to describe
it for the sake of shewing the extraordinary superstition and bigotry
that still exists among a people, who have not only been visited, but
regularly traded with, by European nations, for nearly two centuries. I
shall introduce this individual case by premising that human sacrifices
are lavishly made, not only in honour of the blood royal, but in a more
or less degree upon the death of _great_ (or I should more properly say
_rich_) men; for riches constitute greatness here, even in a higher
ratio than they do in more civilized countries; the riches of these
parts consisting in the possession of slaves.

At the funeral obsequies of the Duke's brother, six human victims were
destined to the sacrifice; namely, three men and three women, who,
however, were, with a strange mixture of mercy and cruelty, rendered
insensible to the terrors of their fate by previous intoxication. Five
of these poor creatures were hung, and placed in the grave of the
Prince, while the sixth, a young and favourite wife, was reserved for a
destiny still more horrible; being thrown alive into the grave, which
was immediately closed over the whole.

These people practise many other superstitious customs, equally
dreadful, and I am persuaded it needs but a recital of them, to prove
how much they stand in want of the benevolent instructions of Christian
missionaries.

The laws of the country are worthy of attention, being, perhaps, the
most curious, as well as the most prompt, and effectual, of any that we
are acquainted with, amongst the African nations. The whole of the Old
Calabar country is governed by what are termed the "Egbo laws." These
are laws, enacted by a secret meeting, called the Egbo assembly, which
is held in a house set apart for that purpose, called the Palaver house;
of this assembly the Duke, by virtue of his sovereignty, officiates as
the chief, with the title of Eyamba. There are different degrees of rank
in the subordinate Egbo members, and each step must be purchased
successively. They sometimes admit Englishmen into this assembly:
Captain Burrell of the ship Haywood, of Liverpool, held the rank of
Yampai, which is one of considerable importance, and he found it
exceedingly to his advantage, as it enabled him to recover all debts due
to him by the natives.

The following are the names, and prices, of each step:

1. Abungo 125 Bars.
2. Aboko 75 Bars.
3. Makaira 400 White copper rods.
4. Bakimboko 100 Bars.
5. Yampai 850 White copper rods,

also some rum, goats, membo, &c. &c.

The Yampai is the only class of Egbo men that are allowed to sit in
council. The sums paid for the different titles of Egbo are divided
among the Yampai only, who are not confined to a single share, for a
Yampai may have his title multiplied as often as he chooses to purchase
additional shares, which entitles the person so purchasing to a
corresponding number of portions in the profits arising out of the
establishment.

Their mode of administering justice is as follows: When a person cannot
obtain his due from a debtor, or when any injury has been received,
personally or otherwise, the aggrieved party applies to the Duke for the
Egbo drums; acquainting him at the same time with the nature of his
complaint: if the Duke accedes to the demand, the Egbo assembly
immediately meet, and the drums are beat about the town; at the first
sound of which every woman is obliged to retreat within her own
dwelling, upon pain of losing her head for disobedience: nor until the
drum goes round the second time, to shew that council is ended, and the
Egbo returned, are they released from their seclusion. If the complaint
be just, the Egbo is sent to the offending party to warn him of his
delinquency, and to demand reparation, after which announcement no one
dares move out of the house inhabited by the culprit, until the affair
is settled, and if it be not soon arranged, the house is pulled down
about their ears, in which case the loss of a few heads frequently
follows. This extremity, however, rarely occurs, for if the offender be
not able to settle the matter himself, it is generally made up by his
relations and friends.

The Egbo man--that is the executive person wears a complete disguise,
consisting of a black network close to the skin from head to foot, a hat
with a long feather, horns projecting from his forehead, a large whip in
his right hand, with a bell fastened to the lower part of his back, and
several smaller ones round his ankles. Thus equiped he starts from the
Egbo-house, runs through the streets with his bells ringing, to the
house of the offender, followed by half a dozen subordinate personages
fantastically dressed, each carrying either a sword or stick.

I one day asked King Eyo who this Egbo was, who ran about with the
bells, "What? you tink Egbo be man, no, he be debil, come up from bush,
nobody know him," was his reply.

It is their custom upon the death of a great man, to have one of his
slaves, male or female, taken down to the side of the river to make what
they call a devil, which means, I presume, an offering to the Evil
Spirit; this is done in the following manner. A stake is driven into the
ground close to the water's edge, to this the poor wretch is fastened,
the head being pulled as high as possible to stretch the neck for the
sword, by which he is to be decapitated, and after the deed is
accomplished they carry the head through the town rejoicing.

These frightful orgies used to take place in the daytime, but in
consequence of the repeated remonstrances from the Captains of vessels,
who were shocked by the frequency of these horrid scenes, performed in
sight of all the ships in the river, they now take place in the night;
for my own part I think that the noise occasioned by their savage
merriment, and their running about during the stillness of night,
produces a more appalling picture to the imagination, than even the
reality of the scene in broad day; the only difference is that there are
fewer spectators, as the greater number of those on board the vessels
are wrapt in profound repose.

The practice of burying the youngest and favourite wives with the corpse
is by no means uncommon,[36] and they resort to a variety of cruel
practices for maiming and destroying their slaves; thus they cut off
parts or the whole of their ears, a part of the nose, a finger or a
hand. One of the servants who waited upon us at the King's house, had
lost an ear in this way, for some trifling offence.

After a recital of these facts, it is scarcely necessary to observe that
the Calabar people are extremely cruel, indeed I am informed that they
frequently cause their slaves to be put to death for a mere whim; a
practice which they endeavour to excuse, by saying, that if the slaves
were not thus kept in awe of their masters, they would rise in
rebellion: they also plead the necessity of it, for preventing them
becoming too numerous. These reasons form also their apology for
countenancing the slave-trade, a traffic which is most strenuously
supported by the Duke, who also trades largely in palm-oil.

His method of procuring slaves is worthy of remark. He induces the
Captains to deposit a quantity of goods in his hands, which he sorts
into such portions as would form an ordinary load for a man to carry on
his head. He then sends his agents into the country with the goods to
purchase slaves, promising the Captains their cargoes, amounting to any
given number, within a stated time; in the meanwhile he employs other
persons to collect in his own town and neighbourhood, and if he is very
hard pressed, (for the Captains of slavers are always very impatient),
he obliges his great men to furnish him with a certain number each. This
is done by sending him every individual from the neighbouring villages,
who have committed any crime or misdemeanor; and should he still
continue unable to make up the specified demand, they sell their own
servants to him. The Duke has profited largely by this system, for he
has several warehouses full of goods, some of which he has had in store
for years, such as wines, spirits, liqueurs, sail-cloth, cordage,
manufactured goods, copper rods, iron bars, &c. &c.

The palm-oil he collects in small quantities from his subjects, in the
neighbourhood of the Calabar, and other small rivers that fall into it.
The Duke, however, does not engross the whole trade, for the commerce
being once regularly opened, may be carried on by any person who has
property to barter. Their mode of proceeding is as follows:--Those who
desire to traffic, come on board and select whatever they want, making
their agreement with the captain as to what they are to bring in return.
If the captain knows them to be honest men, they are allowed to take the
goods away at once; but if they have not sufficient credit with him,
they must get the Duke, or some trustworthy person, to be responsible
for them. I was fortunate enough to be present during the time they were
carrying on business.

The principal part of the cargoes of the Liverpool vessels who trade for
palm-oil, is salt, of which the natives are very fond; but they consider
it more a luxury, than a necessary condiment; the article next in
estimation is rum; after which, they eagerly desire all descriptions of
manufactured articles; such as cotton cloths, especially those printed
with fancy patterns: all sorts of beads, glass or china-ware, umbrellas,
hats, &c. for which they frequently send orders on board the vessels,
written in the following style.

NOTES.

(NO. 1.)

"Captain Cummins Sir please Let the Bearer have fifteen and the 13
Crew Cask to fill at Toby Creek.

"Duke Epbraim."

(NO. 2.)

"Captain Image Sir Please Give King Eyo Trust for 800 Crews of Oil be
down for it if his no pay I will pay.

"Duke Ephraim."

(NO. 3.)

"Dear my good friend Captain Halmaga Sir I have send you this letter
to let you know that I send you 1 Goat and I send my Dear John to send
me that Rum you promised me yeseday and I thank you to let me know
what Hour you want me to come down to take my Trust.

"I am your Best friend

"King Eyo Honesty at Old Creek Town."

(NO. 4.)

"Dear friend Captain Cummins Sir I have to thank you to send me 8
Empett Cask for to go for Market.

"I remain your friend Eyo Eyo Honesty."[37]

(NO. 5.)

"My friend Captain Commins if you please send me that Rum I been beg
you and thank you for lettle Beef too if you got any.

"Toby Tom Narrow."

(NO. 6.)

"Captain R. Commings Sir I mush obliged to you for please spear me
some nails for make door do my friend I remain Sir

"Tom Duke."

(NO. 7.)

"Captain Cummins Sir I let you know but I want to go to Market for me
self in I send you Book to give me 50 Iranba for 110 Crew Salt then
now I want 70 Crew Salt in them Bring me Book for 40 Crew Salt again
then now I thank you to Down hose head for my 2 small hatt I am your
Humble Servant

"Antega Ambo."

If the Christian Missionaries were to establish schools in the towns on
the banks of these rivers, they would be very likely to prove eminently
beneficial to the people, who are very desirous of, receiving every kind
of instruction, more particularly a knowledge of writing, which, at
present, the head men teach each other in an imperfect manner, of which
the above notes form an example. There is not one of them who ever read
English, or any other language in print; and I have heard the Duke
express great regret at not being able to read the newspapers, of the
contents of which, although he had seen many, he still remained
ignorant.

_Thursday, 13_.--The Eden's prize (a Spanish schooner taken last voyage
by the African) arrived this evening from Fernando Po, with Capt. Owen
on board, to whom Captain Smith and myself immediately went to pay our
respects.

_Friday, 14_.--Captain Owen visited the Spanish slave schooner, the ship
Agnes, the brig Kent, and mustered the crews of the two palm-oil
vessels, when he met with several volunteers for the Eden. In the
afternoon, he went on shore to see the Duke, who received him very
civilly, but suspiciously, for, notwithstanding their great professions
of friendship for the English in general, and their real regard for some
particular individuals, who are regular traders to the country, the
consideration of the profits they derive from the slave-trade, prompts
them to feel no little annoyance at our interference in their lucrative
commerce. They already perceive that our new settlement at Fernando Po,
is calculated to interfere with their proceedings, and they have clearly
expressed their sentiments upon the subject; not, however, without
clothing their observations so cunningly as to avoid giving offence.

"What for," said one, "white man come to live in black man's country?
What for can't white man stop in own country? Much better for white man,
than black man's country."

Mr. Cowan, the hospital assistant at Fernando Po, and myself,
accompanied King Eyo, this evening, in his large canoe, up the river, to
Creek Town, a distance of twelve miles, where his Majesty resides.

The town is built on the edge of a creek, a short distance from the
river. On our arrival, we found that King Eyo had a larger wooden framed
English house, than the King of the Old Calabar, but not in such good
repair: it was also sent from England by Mr. Bold, of Liverpool, to the
King's father. In the largest room there was an elevated seat, in humble
imitation of a throne, where the King sat to hear and give judgment in
cases of dispute, and other causes that required his interference. He
had a number of articles of English furniture, for instance, drawers,
sofas, chairs, &c. The principal articles in glass, were a chandelier,
suspended in the centre of the room, several mirrors, glass shades, for
lamps or candles; rummers, wine-glasses, &c.; but, like the Duke, his
Majesty does not sleep in his English house, preferring a native hut,
where he was surrounded by his wives and domestics; the latter, of
course, being his slaves. King Eyo is more moderate in his conjugal
establishment than the Duke, having only twenty wives, while Duke
Ephraim's number amounts to sixty.

The captain of an English vessel calling on the Duke one day, he
exclaimed, "Oh, my friend, you come very good time, I just send away
some of my wives, that I have had to entertain me!"--The captain
replying, that he regretted he had not come sooner, as he should have
liked to see them. The Duke answered, "Oh! no, my friend; you could not;
it is not Calabar fashion!" How many were there? questioned the
captain--"Oh!" replied the Duke, "only twenty-five!"

_Saturday, 15_.--There was so much noise in the town all night, that we
imagined it must proceed from drunkenness, or else some desperate
rencounter; indeed, it was impossible to think otherwise, for they were
screaming, hallooing, and blowing cows-horns, or conchs, which produced
so horrid a din, that there was no possibility of sleeping, and we
expected no less than that a party would rush into the house where we
were. The uproar, however, died away towards morning, and we learned
afterwards, that it was nothing more than the ordinary savage enjoyment
of the natives.

Captain Owen arrived this morning to pay King Eyo a visit; he remained a
couple of hours, and then returned to Old Calabar Town.

In the afternoon, we left Creek Town, with the King, in Tom Eyo's canoe,
to return to Old Calabar; we had been very hospitably entertained by his
Majesty, who gave us what is called Calabar chop, a dish consisting of
any sort of meat stewed in palm-oil, and highly seasoned with pepper.

The idea of palm-oil may be unpleasant to an English reader, but when it
is fresh, it is not unpalatable, and I must confess, that I greatly
relished a dish of fish and yams which was brought on board the Kent, as
a present to the captain: of course it was cooked in their best style. I
remember, at one time, having as much prejudice as any of my countrymen
against oil; but when I went to France, I partook of it insensibly,
until I began to like it; and, when in Italy, I fell into the custom of
using it with vegetables, as a substitute for melted butter: fresh oil,
in warm climates, being generally preferred to butter, even where both
are to be had, which is not always the case in southern latitudes.

There are very few good fish in the Old Calabar river; the best I met
with was a species of sole, but very thin, which, I suppose, is owing to
the muddiness of the river itself, and to the extensive mud-banks which
flank the channel. The water in the river is also so bad as to be unfit
for use, in consequence of the quantity of decayed animal and vegetable
matter that must constantly be mixed with it, in a climate where the
progress of putrefaction is so rapid; however, fortunately for the
shipping, there is a good spring on the bank of the river, about a mile
below the town, where it is usual to send for supplies.

King Eyo went on board the African, schooner, and remained with Captain
Smith to select goods, equal in value to twenty bullocks.

----------
[36] It is the custom here to bury their dead in their own houses.

[37] Brother to King Eyo.

CHAP. XII.

Captain Owen's Departure--Runaway Slave--Egbo again--Duke's Sunday--
Superstitious Abstinence--Anecdote of a Native Gentleman--Breaking
Trade--Author's Visit to Creek Town--Bullocks embarked--Departure from
Calabar--Chased by mistake--Dangerous Situation--Mortality at Fernando
Po--Detection of a Deserter--Frequency of Tornados--Horatio hove
down--Capture of a Slave Vessel--Loss of Mr. Morrison--Another Slave
Vessel taken--Landing a part of the Slaves--Author's Daily Routine--
Garden of Eden--Monstrous Fish--Continued Mortality--Market at Longfield

_Monday, 17_.--After breakfast, Captain Owen sailed in the Victoria for
Fernando Po. The Lady Combermere also departed for the same destination;
the latter vessel, being on a trading voyage along the coast, contained
a number of articles in her freight, much required by the people at the
settlement.

Soon after these vessels were out of sight, two parties of slaves came
down from the Baracoons, to wash themselves in the river; they were
chained in pairs, the right leg of one to the left leg of another.
Before the Victoria arrived, they were brought down daily; but were not
seen during the time she remained, notwithstanding there were several
depots for slaves in the town.

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