A Voyage Round the World, Vol. I (of ?) by James Holman

J >> James Holman >> A Voyage Round the World, Vol. I (of ?)

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_Thursday, 3_.--Still a fresh S.E. trade-wind, which enabled us to go a
point free, (S.W. by S.) Noon, lat. 0 deg. 14'. S. lon. 17 deg. 29'. W.
Having crossed the equinoctial line this forenoon, I have passed it for
the third time, in as many distinct voyages, within a fortnight, namely,

1st. From Prince's Island, to Ascension.

2nd. From Ascension towards Sierra Leone.

3rd. From on board the Eden, on her way to Sierra Leone, more than 2 deg.
north of the line, to Rio de Janeiro.

There being no one on board the galliot, who had ever crossed the
equinoctial line before, except the chief mate, Mr. Fearon, and myself,
the usual ceremony of shaving, &c. was dispensed with, but to prevent
the circumstance passing entirely uncommemorated, Mr. Fearon presented
us with some champagne, as an oblation to Neptune and his spouse,
Amphitrite. About sunset, seven flying-fish fell on board, which we had
for supper, and found them very delicious.

_Friday, 4_.--Still a moderate S.E. trade, lat. 1 deg. 56'. S. lon. 18
deg. 16'. W. Our mode of living is as follows:--Between six and seven
in the morning, a cup of coffee is brought to us; at half-past seven, the
whole crew assemble in the cabin to prayers; immediately after which, we
all go to breakfast, ours in the cabin, consisting of boiled barley, of
which the captain and his mates partake freely, mixing with each
portion, a large table spoonful of butter; this is followed by tea, cold
meat, and biscuit, and concluded with well buttered biscuits and cheese.
At eleven, coffee again; and so soon after noon as the ship's place is
ascertained by the reckoning, a glass of wine is presented to each
person,[50] followed by dinner. At half-past three, tea; and at six, tea
again, but combined with supper. At half-past seven, the crew again
assemble to prayers; after which, all not employed on watch, retire to
rest, with the exception of Mr. Fearon and myself, who were neither such
_gourmands_, nor such sleepers as our Dutch friends.--They, however,
were very moderate in their use of ardent spirits, or fermented liquors;
they were also very moderate smokers, and seldom introduced smoking in
the cabin.

This evening, three more flying-fish fell on board, one of which, having
four wings instead of two, I preserved in spirits. Mr. Fearon informed
me, that he had previously remarked this variation in the species,
which, however, does not appear to be common, it having, as I think,
escaped general notice.

_Saturday, 5_.--Saw a large ship to-day standing in the same direction
with ourselves, but she did not approach us. At noon, Lat. 3 deg. 52'. S.
Lon. 19 deg. 18'. W.

_Sunday, 6_.--Fresh breezes and cloudy, with heavy squalls, and rain at
times; four more flying-fish for breakfast. The sea getting up to-day
made the vessel very uneasy. Lat. 5 deg. 47. S. Lon. 20 deg. 12. W.

_Monday, 7_.--Strong breezes and cloudy, with a heavy sea. Course
continues the same, and but little variation in the wind, excepting
force. Lat. 7 deg. 42'. S.

_Tuesday, 8_.--The wind moderated to-day, and the weather cleared up.
Only two flying-fish for breakfast, which proved a sufficient relish for
the passengers, but they would not have gone far towards satisfying our
Dutch messmates. Lat. at noon, 9 deg. 34'. S. Lon. 22 deg. 17'. W.

_Wednesday, 9_.--Breeze freshened again to-day. Lat. 11 deg. 9'. S. Lon.
23 deg. 36'. W.

_Thursday, 10_.--Wind increased to a very strong breeze, with a good
deal of sea, which made the vessel roll about and plunge in a most
delightful manner. Lat. 13 deg. 13'. S. Lon. 25 deg. 7'. W.

_Friday, 11_.--Very squally weather, with a heavy swell. Lat. at noon,
15 deg. 9'. S. Lon. 25 deg. 7'. W.

_Saturday, 12_.--Fresh breezes and cloudy. Lat. 17 deg. 9'. S. Lon.
27 deg. 46. W.

_Sunday, 13_.--Wind and weather moderated to-day. Lat. 18 deg. 55'. S.
Lon. 29 deg. 48'. W. Saw a few whales playing about.

_Monday, 14_.--Fresh breezes and very fine weather. At noon, Lat. 20 deg.
44'. S. Lon. 31 deg. 42'. W. Cape Frio, S. 76 deg. W. 564 miles.

_Tuesday, 15_.--Moderate and fine: wind N.E. Lat. 22 deg. 2'. S. Lon.
33 deg. 22'. W. Cape Frio, S. 82 deg. W. 472 miles. Afternoon, light
breezes and variable, from N. to E.

_Wednesday, 16_.--Fresh breezes and cloudy, with squalls at times. Wind
N.E. to E. A single flying-fish for breakfast. Lat. 22 deg. 23'. S. Lon.
35 deg. 9'. W. Cape Frio, S. 84 deg. W. 364 miles.

_Thursday, 17_.--Fresh breezes, and cloudy until noon. Afternoon,
moderate and fine. Lat. 22 deg. 34'. S. Lon. 34 deg. 7'. W. Found a sore
throat coming on, accompanied with fever, the effect of a severe cold
caught by remaining on deck late at night. I had also frequently got wet
during the blowing weather, by the sea breaking over the vessel: and,
unfortunately, had not recommenced wearing flannel, having abandoned the
use of it at Fernando Po, in consequence of the exhaustion it produced
by the excessive sultriness of the weather.

_Friday, 18_.--Two Cape pigeons were hovering over the vessel to-day;
they were the first we had seen; and it is very possible, that they had
recently deserted some vessel which they had followed from the Cape of
Good Hope. They are a small sea-fowl, about the size of a pigeon, from
which resemblance they derive their name. They are to be seen in great
numbers off the Cape, as well as in the higher southern latitudes.

At noon, Lat. 22 deg. 34'. S. Lon. 38 deg. 27'. W. Cape Frio, S. 82
deg. W. 200 miles. Soon after noon, the discoloration of the sea
indicated the proximity of land, although, by our reckoning, it should
have been far distant; however, we saw it at sunset, bearing N.W. by N.
about 15 miles, which we supposed to be the Cape St. Thomas, when we
sounded in 33 fathoms sand, with black and white specks. Stood to the
southward for the night.

_Saturday, 19_.--Soon after daylight, we saw the land. At noon, Cape
Frio, W.N.W. about 12 miles. Lat. 23 deg. 7'. S. Lon. 39 deg. 25'. W.
At two in the afternoon, we passed a warlike looking schooner under
Brazilian colours. At sunset. Cape Frio, E.N.E. about eight miles.
Continued our course for the harbour of Rio de Janeiro till midnight,
when we hove to for daylight.

_Sunday, 20_.--At daylight, we made all sail with a light breeze, for
the harbour of Rio de Janeiro. At two in the afternoon, sounded in forty
fathoms; Sugar Loaf Hill bearing N.W. At eight in the evening, we came
to an anchor abreast of the forts, at the entrance of the harbour.[51]

_Monday, 21_.--At daylight, we found the most splendid scenery open to
our view: a clear atmosphere, and a sky so serene, that the distant
mountains blended softly into the heavens, while the picturesque
grouping of objects in the vicinity, completed a beautiful _coup
d'oeil_, which it is difficult to imagine, and scarcely possible to be
surpassed. The wind and tide being against us until two o'clock, the
sea-breeze then setting in, we got under weigh, to go into the harbour,
but, at four o'clock, the Portuguese authorities obliged us to come to
an anchor in the outer harbour, abreast of Fort Santa Cruz, in 22
fathoms water.

H.M.S. Blossom, Captain Beechy, dropped anchor here this afternoon, on
his return voyage from his explorating expedition in Baring Straits,
when she immediately saluted the flag of Sir Robert Otway, which was
flying on board H.M.S. Ganges. H.M.B. Chanticleer, Captain Forster, was
also lying in the harbour; an agreeable _rencontre_, I should imagine,
for Captains Beechy and Forster, who were companions on the North Pole
expedition; no small difference in climate and scenery from their
present place of meeting. Captain Peters of our galliot (the Young
Nicholas) and Mr. Fearon went on shore in the evening, but I was too ill
with my cold, even to venture exposing myself to the night air, or to
remove until I had secured a comfortable lodging; however, on the
following afternoon I landed, but without my baggage, as it was detained
until special permission for its removal could be received from the
Custom-house; where every packet was examined and paid for, before I was
permitted to take it to my lodgings.

Mr. Fearon and myself took up our quarters at the Hotel du Nord near the
Palace, at one end of the Rua Direito (or strait street), which runs
parallel with the sea. This is the broadest and best street in Rio de
Janeiro, and as the Custom-house is situated in the centre, with the
Palace and Dock-yard flanking the extremities, this street is an immense
thoroughfare, especially as all articles of merchandise, not excepting
the slaves, or any other object of traffic imported, or exported, must
pass through it, on, or from, its way to the Custom-house.

But, as though the confusion necessarily attendant upon this continual
bustle were insufficient, each group of porters as they pass along with
their heavy loads, chant their peculiar national songs, for the double
purpose of timing their steps and concentrating their attention on their
employment. To these sounds are added the variety of cries, uttered in
an endless alternation of tones, by the pretty negress fruit venders,
who, smartly dressed, and leering and smiling in their most captivating
manner endeavour so to attract the attention of the sons of Adam. These,
with the gabbling of foreigners, hurrying on their several missions of
pleasure or of business, the chattering of slaves waiting to be hired,
and the occasional expostulations of those who are unceremoniously
jostled from the pavement by the rude encounter of bales of goods, keep
up altogether a din of discordance perfectly distracting.

There are three principal landing-places at the city of Rio, one in
front of the Palace, one at the Custom-House, and one at the Naval-yard;
where there are flights of stone steps for the convenience of the
public. I took a walk in the evening with my friend Mr. Fearon to the
Rua Pescadores (Fisherman's street, one of the many that branch from the
Rua Direito), to find out Dr. Dickson, a naval surgeon settled in this
city, for whom I had a letter of introduction, from my friend Captain
Owen. He was not at home, but we were received by his partner, who
appeared much concerned at my state of health, and advised me to return
home and not think of leaving the house again until Dr. Dickson saw me,
which he promised should be early on the following morning. I believed
my catarrh had encreased to pneumonia, and the medical gentleman
appeared to consider the symptoms much more seriously than I did myself.

_Wednesday, 23_.--My cough was much worse to-day, indeed it had become
so troublesome that I was almost exhausted, especially as I dared not
partake of any stimulating food, to support my strength. Neither could I
obtain repose either by night or by day, indeed I found the horizontal
position less endurable than any other. I, however, received in my bed
room a number of gentlemen who called upon me. Among these was Captain
Lyon of the royal navy, who had charge of a very large mining
establishment in the interior, under the title of the Imperial British
Brazilian Mining Company, at Gongo Soco. On hearing my intention to
travel in the Brazils, this gentleman not only invited me to visit him,
but also to accompany him to his establishment, to which he was about to
return in a few days. This invitation was perfectly irresistible, and I
promised to avail myself of it, if it were possible for me to sit on
horseback at the time of his departure. This hope induced me to be
doubly careful in promoting the measures judged advisable for my
recovery. Captain Duntz, and his friend Mr. Edward Walker, one of the
Directors of the Mining Company, also called with Captain Lyon; as well
as Messrs. Luddington, Power, &c. in the course of the day.

_Thursday, 24_.--Captain Lyon most obligingly invited me to join a
party, consisting of Mr. Gordon, our Minister, Captains Beechy and
Forster, &c. &c. on a most interesting excursion to the Corcovada
Mountain on the following morning, for the purpose of measuring its
height; but I was most reluctantly obliged to decline it; first, because
it would have been too trying for my cough; and secondly, because I
wished to reserve all my strength for my journey into the interior.

_Saturday, 26_.--Captain Duntz paid me another visit, bringing his
friend Sir T. Thompson of the Cadmus with him. Captain Lyon and his
friend Mr. Edward Walker also favoured me in like manner.

_Monday, 28_.--The packet sailed for England to-day, calling at Bahia
and Pernambuco on her way. Captain Lyon's friend Mr. Edward Walker went
passenger in her. I heard that our journey into the interior was
fortunately deferred for a day or two. My friend Lieutenant E. Belcher
of H.M.S. Blossom, called on me to-day, as did several other gentlemen.

_Tuesday, 29_.--Captain Lyon called to inform me that he had determined
on proceeding to the interior the following day; I therefore busied
myself in preparing for the journey. Among the few articles of which I
stood in need, were a jacket and pantaloons, which I was obliged to
purchase, ready made, at a store of English slop-goods, the English
tailors here being too consequential to accommodate any one on an
emergency.

_Wednesday, 30_.--I took leave of my friend and fellow passenger Mr.
Fearon, to join Captain Lyon at Mr. Raynsford's in Rua Pescadores, from
whose house we were to set out. Every thing being ready about noon, we
mounted our mules, and formed a very respectable cavalcade, our party
for the interior consisting of Captain Lyon, Mr. Sharpe, Mr. A. Walker,
and myself, with a train of loaded mules, we were also favoured by the
escort of Messrs. Raynsford, and Lewis, on our first day's march. The
latter gentleman is a Prussian Jew, and has amassed a considerable
property in this country by dealing in precious stones, in addition to
which traffic, he has a general store at Gongo Soco. He has also a
brother a dealer in jewels who lives at Villa Rica. How is it that other
men cannot succeed so well as those of the Jewish persuasion? Is it that
their intelligence, penetration, and discrimination, are superior to
other men? Or is it solely owing to their less scrupulous integrity? My
own conviction has always been, that want of success in any particular
pursuit or profession, has arisen in most cases, out of an absence of
that firmness which enables a man to reject the pleasures of the world,
and the world's frivolities, for the sake of the one purpose to which he
should rightly devote all his energies. When men practise a rigid course
of self-denial in this respect; immolating all vain desires upon the
altar of science, or of interest, they seldom fail to attain the utmost
point of their ambition.

I found myself very weak, and much reduced by the low regimen which I
had necessarily observed during the violence of my inflammatory cough. A
blister had also been kept open on my breast during the whole time of my
sojourn at Rio de Janeiro, this had only received its first dressing
just before I mounted my mule, and I had not got clear of the city
before the inflamed state of my chest, so dried up the dressing, that
the irritation produced was like a red hot iron applied to the surface:
this torture I was compelled to endure for more than three hours, before
I could obtain any relief. About four o'clock we arrived at Venda Nova,
or Traja, also known by the name of Willis's, it having been kept by an
Englishman of that name. It was much patronized by the English, who
frequently made excursions of pleasure to this place, distant from Rio
de Janeiro four Brazilian leagues or sixteen English miles. We were well
supplied here with provisions, but our lodgings were of a very inferior
description, all the party, excepting myself, being literally, and
actually, necessitated to exclaim

"My lodging is on the cold ground."

The only imitation of a bed-place was considerately resigned to me. It
consisted of a crib in a small room, no larger than a closet; however,
as the horizontal position still continued most distressing to me, a bed
of down could not have procured me repose, for I do not think I ceased
coughing for three consecutive minutes the whole night. And it was no
small aggravation to my misery, to know that I was the means of
disturbing all my friends in the next apartment. Under these
circumstances, I heard the summons for preparation, at a very early
hour, with infinite satisfaction, and, ill as I was, though the morning
was extremely raw and cold, I rejoiced to find that we were all in the
saddle before daylight (half-past five)--Mr. Raynsford, on his return to
Rio de Janeiro, and our own party for the Mine Country. Soon after noon,
we arrived at Manganga, a distance of four leagues (16 miles), having
passed over a very level country, where the heat of the day was equal in
intensity, to the cold of the morning; the thermometer being, at one
time, upwards of 90 deg. F. This change was to me delightful, as heat
agrees with me at all times, and more particularly while suffering from
an indisposition, the prevalent symptom of which is a sensation of
chilliness. I found my strength very inadequate to bear much fatigue.
Our accommodation, however, was better to-night than the preceding one,
and Captain Lyon being well known on the road, acquainted with the
language, and a man of very agreeable manners, we found every one ready
to do their utmost to serve him, especially the fair sex. In speaking of
the fair sex--or rather, in this case, the female, but not fair--a
pretty young negress came to solicit charity, for the purpose of
enabling her to make up a sum of money to purchase half her freedom, the
other half having been left as a legacy, by her deceased master. This is
doing things by halves with a witness: who would have thought of such
piece-meal generosity, except a thrifty Brazilian Portuguese.

_Friday, August 1_.--Soon after daylight, we set off again with our
whole party: and at eleven, we rested a short time to refresh ourselves
at a venda,[52] which stands at the foot of a rugged and precipitous
range, called the Serra Santa Anna (or St. Ann's Mountain), which we
afterwards passed over, and arrived, about three o'clock, at a
respectable farm-house, in the village of Botaes, where we remained for
the night, having travelled four leagues to-day. Captain Lyon called my
attention this afternoon, to the note of a bird in a wood, when passing
over the mountain, named the Ferreirinho (little Blacksmith), from the
resemblance of the note to the ringing sound of a smart blow from a
small hammer on an anvil, terminating in a sharp whistle.

_Saturday, 2_.--Notwithstanding the inconvenience I had suffered during
the journey of the two preceding days, I felt an increase of strength,
and an abatement of my cough. Fortunately for me, we passed the night in
a warm valley, and did not start this morning till nine o'clock, from
which time our journey over the mountain proved very pleasant, for it
must be remembered, that this is the winter season in this country; and
that the coldness of the nights continues unabated until the rising sun
begins to exert its influence. We left Mr. A. Walker, with the loaded
mules, to follow; Capt. Lyon being anxious to proceed at a quicker rate.
Almost immediately after leaving the farm, we began to ascend the Alto
de Serra, where, in some places, a false step of the mule would have
precipitated both the animal and its rider into one of the fearful
chasms that occasionally yawned beneath our path. We were frequently
placed in very awkward situations, for we met with several caravans of
loaded mules, winch were generally conducted by the voices of the
muleteers, who dash on at a fearless rate; and, in some of these passes,
at the imminent risk of overturning the travellers whom chance places in
their way: I was frequently obliged to jerk my foot suddenly out of the
stirrup, and allow my leg to pass behind on the back of the animal on
which I rode, to avoid these unceremonious assaults; while, on the
opposite side, I was pressed against the rugged surface of an
overhanging ridge.

When we arrived at the top of the mountain, we made a halt at a
blacksmith's shop, for the purpose of getting Captain Lyon's mule bled,
the muleteer having declared that he had the pest; but the word _pest_
appertains here to all sorts of animal ailments; for example, there was
a fowl sick at this place, and on asking what was the matter with it, we
were told that it had the pest; the fowl's disease proved to be the pip.
Indeed, this convenient word pest, was indiscriminately applied to all
diseases which the people did not understand. It reminded me of La
Fleur, in the Sentimental Journey, who, when he could not get his horse
to pass the dead ass, cried "Pest!" as the _dernier resort_ of his
vocabulary of exclamations. In the afternoon, we made a short halt at a
venda within twelve miles of Botaes, to refresh ourselves, which was
kept by an Englishman named John M'Dill, who had formerly lived at Gongo
Soco with Captain Tregoning. He had recently settled here on a small
estate, which he was clearing for a coffee plantation. About sunset, we
crossed the Rio Paraheiba, over a long wooden bridge, about a mile
beyond which we put up for the night, where we had but very indifferent
accommodations. We had ridden five leagues, or twenty miles, to-day.

_Sunday, 3_.--We set off at five this morning, and arrived at the town
of Valencia at nine, where we stopped for breakfast. Nearly all the
inhabitants of the town collected to comment upon us, and it so
happened, that I was the principal object of curiosity in the whole
group: this unlooked for distinction, arose from two circumstances,
first, my wearing a long beard; and secondly, my blindness. These
peculiarities produced numberless exclamations, as, "How could I travel?
Why did I travel? Why did I wear a long beard? Was I a Padre?--or, a
Missionary?" and so forth, until they became so pressing that we were
glad to get housed, with closed doors, to keep these troublesome
inquisitors at a respectful distance.

I can well understand, that a simple people, whose experience is limited
to their own habits, and who have never had an opportunity of
inter-mixing with other nations, must have been startled by the novelty
of a beard; but their astonishment at the sight of a board, was not
greater than mine, on discovering that they were destitute of an
appendage, which, in the torid zone, is at once an article of luxury and
utility. The people of the East invariably wear beards, not merely as a
national custom, but as a matter of necessity; and, for my part, I can
testify, that I found it an indispensable protection to the neck, and
the lower part of the face: after a day's journey, the luxury of
immerging the face in cold water, leaving the beard half dry, was most
refreshing, the evaporation producing a very reviving and agreeable
effect. In addition to my beard, I had the farther protection of a broad
brimmed straw-hat, the crown of which was deeply wadded with cotton
wool, and which completely screened me from the piercing rays of a
tropical sun.

Having occasion for some castor-oil, I sent to an apothecary to procure
it, which amused the people exceedingly, who declared their astonishment
at our simplicity, in sending to a doctor for an article so common here,
that it is generally used for lamp-oil, and to obtain which, it is only
necessary to gather the beans from the plant, which grows wildly and
luxuriantly in this country, and express the juice in the ordinary way.

Soon after leaving Valencia, we passed a venda, kept by another
countryman of ours, but we did not stop there, being anxious to reach
the town of Preta before night. About sunset we arrived at Rio Preta (or
Black River), passing over a long wooden bridge to the town, where we
waited for the authorities, to have our passports, &c. examined, which
we had previously procured at Rio, from the Minister of the Interior. We
had now entered the Minas Geraes, or Mine Country, the opposite bank of
the river forming the boundary of the province of Rio de Janeiro. Every
package was examined, and a duty demanded for each article of
merchandize, &c. excepting our personal baggage; after this ceremony, we
proceeded to a house, where they were accustomed to receive, I cannot
say accommodate, travellers, for its appointments and arrangements, were
neither elegant nor convenient; and the host, an old man with a young
wife, was by no means civil: attentive he was, to the most minute point
of etiquette, and somewhat more attentive than agreeable, for he watched
us with a most pertinacious vigilance, in order that we might have no
opportunity of conversing with our pretty hostess, whom he closely
followed about with looks of angry jealousy, while she prepared our
supper. It was truly pitiable to observe the misery the old dotard
endured, every time his wife entered our apartment, constantly
fidgetting at her elbow, and scrutinizing, suspiciously, every look that
passed between her and her guests. His fears served us for a jest,
however, and produced a vein of jocularity, that reconciled us to our
earthen flooring, upon which some of our party were doomed to seek
repose for that night.

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