Observations Upon The Windward Coast Of Africa by Joseph Corry
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Joseph Corry >> Observations Upon The Windward Coast Of Africa
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11 [Illustration: A MANDINGO CHIEF, and his HEADMAN, in their COSTUME, & other
NATIVES]
OBSERVATIONS
UPON THE
WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA,
THE
RELIGION, CHARACTER, CUSTOMS, &c.
OF THE NATIVES;
WITH A
SYSTEM UPON WHICH THEY MAY BE CIVILIZED,
AND A
KNOWLEDGE ATTAINED OF THE INTERIOR OF THIS EXTRAORDINARY
QUARTER OF THE GLOBE;
AND UPON
THE NATURAL AND COMMERCIAL RESOURCES OF THE COUNTRY;
MADE IN THE YEARS 1805 AND 1806.
BY JOSEPH CORRY.
WITH AN APPENDIX,
CONTAINING
A LETTER TO LORD HOWICK, ON THE MOST SIMPLE AND EFFECTUAL
MEANS OF ABOLISHING THE SLAVE TRADE.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR G. AND W. NICOL, BOOKSELLERS TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL;
AND JAMES ASPERNE, CORNHILL.
BY W. BULMER AND CO. CLEVELAND ROW, ST. JAMES'S
1807.
TO
THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
LORD VISCOUNT CASTLEREAGH,
ONE OF HIS MAJESTY'S PRINCIPAL SECRETARIES
OF STATE FOR FOREIGN AFFAIRS.
MY LORD,
Hightly flattered by your Lordship's polite condescension, in permitting me
to inscribe to you the following Pages, I return your Lordship my most
unfeigned thanks.
If they meet your Lordship's approbation, and that of a discerning Public;
or if they tend in the most remote degree to excite more intelligent
efforts and more active enterprise on behalf of the unenlightened African,
or to augment the Commerce of the United Kingdom with a Country, now in
danger of falling into the hands of our Enemies, I shall feel an ample
reward for the risques and dangers to which I have been exposed in
collecting these Fragments; while the occasion gives me the opportunity of
subscribing myself,
With grateful acknowledgments,
Your Lordship's
Most obedient, and devoted humble Servant,
JOSEPH CORRY,
PREFACE.
With becoming deference, I shall endeavour to illustrate in the following
pages, the observations I have personally made upon the Coast of Africa,
and to give the information I have obtained from an extended circle of
Chiefs, and native Tribes, relative to its Inhabitants, their Religion,
Habits and Customs, the natural productions and commercial resources, &c.
and attempt to delineate the most eligible grounds upon which the condition
of the African may be effectually improved, and our commercial relations be
preserved with that important quarter of the globe.
Though deeply impressed with the importance of the subject, and my own
incompetency, I obtrude myself upon Public notice, governed by this
reflection, that I am stimulated by an ardent zeal for the prosperity of my
Country, and am animated by a philanthropic solicitude for the effectual
manumission of the African, from his enslaved customs, his superstitious
idolatry, and for the enlargement of his intellectual powers.
I shall guard against the sacrifice of truth to abstracted principles; and
if in the most remote degree, I excite the interference of my countrymen in
behalf of the African, extend our commerce, and enlarge the circle of
civilized and Christian Society, I shall think that I have neither
travelled, nor written in vain.
Africa is a country hitherto but little known; those in general who have
visited it, have been either inadequate to research, or have been absorbed
in the immediate attainment of gain; moreover the European Traveller in
that country has to contend with the combined influence of the native
jealousies of its inhabitants, their hereditary barbarism, obstinate
ferocity, and above all, an uncongenial climate. To surmount these
difficulties, commerce is the most certain medium to inspire its Chiefs and
Natives with confidence, and to obtain a facility of intercourse with the
Interior country. Sanctioned by that pursuit, I have been favoured with
information from a large circle of Native Chiefs, and Tribes, relative to
their customs, their habits, localities, predilections, and the existing
state of society.
The impressions, which ocular demonstration, and personal investigation
occasion upon visiting this uncultivated country, are so different from
those excited in any other district of the globe, and so powerful, that the
mind is naturally led to meditation on the means of its improvement and on
the mode by which it may be ameliorated, and the sources of commerce be
essentially enlarged.
Europe, which merits the highest rank for philanthropy, has hitherto
strangely neglected this country; nor have the attempts of individuals and
benevolent Societies been productive in endeavouring to diffuse the
influence of civilization, and to desseminate the seeds of science
throughout these extensive regions.
Trusting that my endeavours to befriend the Natives of Africa, and to
extend the Commerce of my Country, will shield me from the severity of
animadversion, and of criticism, I shall proceed in my relation.
J. CORRY.
_September 1st, 1807_.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Remarks from the Period of Embarkation at St. Helen's, till the Arrival at
Sierra Leone--Sketches of the Land seen in the Passage--its Bearings and
Distance--Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone River, &c.
CHAPTER II.
The Author leaves Bance Island.--Visits the Colony of Sierra
Leone.--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from
whom he experiences a most hospitable Reception.--Cursory Remarks upon that
Colony, and upon the Islands of Banana.--His Embarkation for the Island of
Goree, &c.
CHAPTER III.
An Excursion to the main Land.--Visit to King Marraboo.--Anecdotes of this
Chief.--Another Excursion, accompanied by Mr. Hamilton.--A shooting Party,
acccompanied by Marraboo's Son, Alexander, and other Chiefs.--Reflections
upon Information obtained from them, and at Goree, relative to this Part of
the Coast.--Embark in his Majesty's Sloop of War the Eugenia, which
convoyed Mr. Mungo Park in the Brig Crescent, to the River Gambia, on his
late Mission to the Interior of Africa.--Observations on that
Subject.--Arrive in Porto Praya Bay, in the Island of St. Jago.--Some
Remarks upon that Island.--Departure from thence to England, and safe
Arrival at Portsmouth
CHAPTER IV.
The Author proceeds to London.--Re-embarks for Africa.--Arrives at
Madeira.--Observations on that Island.--Prosecution of the Voyage, and
Arrival in the Sierra Leone River, &c.
CHAPTER V.
Observations upon the natural Productions of the River Sierra Leone.--The
Author explores its Branches, interior to Bance Island, the Rochelle, and
the Port Logo.--The Manners and Customs of the Inhabitants.--Their
Commerce.--The Author's safe Arrival at Miffare
CHAPTER VI.
Return to Bance Island.--General Observations on the Commerce, Religion,
Customs, and Character of the Natives upon the Windward Coast.--An Account
of the requisite Merchandize for Trade, the best Mode of introducing
natural Commerce and Civilization into Africa, &c.
CHAPTER VII.
The Mode of Trial by _Ordeal_ and _Red Water_ in Africa.--The Wars of its
Inhabitants.--The State of Barbarism and Slavery considered.--The Condition
of the Africans will not be improved by a late Legislative Act, without
further Interference.--Salutary Measures must be adopted towards the
Negroes in the Colonies.--A System suggested to abolish Slavery in Africa,
and the Slave Trade in general, and to enlarge the intellectual Powers of
its Inhabitants.--The proper Positions to effect an Opening to the Interior
of Africa, and to display to the World its manifold Resources
CHAPTER VIII.
What the Anthor conceives should be the System of Establishment to make
effectual the Operations from Cape Verd to Cape Palmas.--Reasons for
subjecting the Whole to one Superior and controlling Administration.--The
Situations, in his Estimation, where principal Depots may be established,
and auxiliary Factories may be placed, &c. &c.
CHAPTER IX.
The Author embarks in the Ship Minerva.--Proceeds to the Rio
Pongo.--Disquisitions thereon.--Further Observations on the Inhabitants,
obtained from Natives of various Nations met with there.--The Isles de
Loss.--Returns to Sierra Leone, &c.
CHAPTER X.
The Author visits the Isles de Loss.--Remarks on those Islands.--Touches at
the River Scarcies.--Arrives at the Colony of Sierra Leone.--Embarks for
the West Indies--Lands at the Colony of Demerary.--Some Observations on the
Productions of that Colony, Berbice, and Essequibo, and on the Importance
of Dutch Guiana to the United Kingdom in a political and commercial View
CHAPTER XI.
Conclusion
APPENDIX.
No. I.
Letter to the Right Honourable Lord Viscount Howick, His Majesty's late
principal Secretary of State for Foreign Affairs, on the Eve of his
Lordship introducing the late Bill into Parliament for the Abolition of the
Slave Trade; shewing at one View the most simple and ready Mode of
gradually and effectually abolishing the Slave Trade, and eradicating
Slavery
No. II.
Letter to the Right Honourable the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty,
referred to in the foregoing Letter to Lord Howick
No. III.
Of the Purrah
Of the _Termite_, _Termes_, or _Bug a Bug_, as it is called by the Natives
upon the Windward Coast of Africa
Of the Camelion
On the Interment of the Dead
On the Amusements, Musical Instruments, &c. of the Africans
Concluding Observations
Vocabulary of the Languages of the principal Nations of the Windward Coast
of Africa
DIRECTIONS TO THE BINDER.
Mandingo Chief and his Head Man, with other Natives in their Costume, to
face the Title Page.
Sketch of the Windward Coast of Africa to face page 1
Palma
The Colony of Sierra Leone and Islands of Banana
Island of Goree
Porto Praya, Island of St. Jago
Island of Fogo, Cape Verd
Island of St. Jago, and Paps of Cape Verd
Bance Island, River Sierra Leone
In illustration of the above Plates, it may be satisfactory to the Reader
to explain that the Turban, in the Frontispiece, distinguishes the
_Mandingo Chief_; and that the Cap, which adorns the _Head Man_, is
embroidered by _themselves_ on scarlet cloth procured from Europeans in
trade, and is executed with great ingenuity.
The narrow stripe of blue cloth suspended behind from the covering which
adorns one of the figures in the back ground, distinguishes a female in the
state of virginity.
This distinguishing mark of _virgin purity_ is uniformly removed upon
entering into the matrimonial state, and is called by the Timmauees
_Tintanjey_.
In the Plate of Bance Island, River Sierra Leone, page 33, is a correct
representation of the _Pullam_ tree, described in page 38, as bearing a
species of silk cotton, or ether down, and is much revered by the natives,
who consider it in many instances as their _Fetish_.
* * * * *
ERRATA.
Page 54, line 8, for _gallunas_ read _galhinas_.
62 2, for _is derived from the African gris-gris_, read,
_is the expression from which the African gris-gris is_
_derived_.
64 20, for _lugras_, read _lugars_.
92 6, for _bungra_, read _bangra_.
[Illustration: SKETCH OF THE WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA]
OBSERVATIONS
UPON THE
WINDWARD COAST OF AFRICA.
CHAPTER I.
_Remarks from the Period of my Embarkation at St. Helens, to my arrival at
Sierra Leone--Sketches of the Land discovered in the Passage--its Bearings
and Distance--with Observations upon the Bay and Entrance of Sierra Leone
River, &c._
Previous to my arrival and landing in the river Sierra Leone, on the 6th of
April, 1805, I shall notice my passage, and display the sketches I have
taken of the land we fell in with, its bearings and distance, for the
observation of the mariner, which from position and prominence to the
Atlantic, claim his most serious attention in running down the coast of
Africa to-windward.[1]
On the 9th March, 1805, I sailed from St. Helens in the ship Thames,
commanded by James Welsh, in company with a fleet of ships bound to the
East Indies, under convoy of his Majesty's ship Indostan. We had a
favourable run down Channel; but, after making to the westward of Scilly,
a heavy gale of wind separated the Thames from the convoy, which we never
afterwards regained, and were therefore obliged, at all hazards, to
proceed for our destination upon the coast of Africa.
Nothing interesting occurred during a prosperous and quick passage, until
the high land of Sierra Leone appeared in view on the evening of the 5th of
April. We came to an anchor outside the Capes, and weighed the next
morning, steering our course for the river.
The space between Leopard's Island, situated to the north, and Cape Sierra
Leone to the south, forms the entrance into the river Sierra Leone; being
in latitude 8 deg. 30" N. and in 13 deg. 43" W. long. and is computed about seven
geographical leagues distant. The river empties itself immediately into the
ocean; and its level banks to the north are covered with impervious
forests, while those to the south exhibit the romantic scenery of an
extended chain of lofty mountains and hills, clothed and ornamented with
foliage of the most luxuriant nature, exciting the highest admiration in
those who are susceptible of the impressions which the sublime works of the
creation never fail to inspire.
Upon entering the bay, the eye is attracted by an extensive river,
circumscribed by the foregoing outline, and exhibiting upon its banks an
assemblage of the productions of nature, vegetating in their native purity.
This view is animated by the prospect of the colony of Sierra Leone, and
the masts of vessels and craft which commerce, and a safe anchorage,
encourage to assemble before it, and by numerous natives paddling with
great dexterity in their canoes.
[Illustration: PALMA bearing S. by W. distant about 8 leagues from A
Published Aug 1 1807 by G & W Nicol]
As I shall have occasion to speak hereafter of the importance of this bay
in a commercial and agricultural point of view, I shall not at present
enter into farther details; but only suggest that I consider it as a
position from whence active enterprize may perform its operations
throughout an extensive district, and derive the most important advantages.
At two. P.M. came to an anchor before the fort and settlement of Bance
Island, which we saluted with seven guns. The river is navigable up to this
island for ships, and small craft proceed a number of miles higher, on the
branches of the Port Logo and Rochell. It is obscured from the view by the
island of Tasso, until bearing round a point of that island called Tasso
Point; the eye is then attracted by a regular fortification, and even an
elegant range of buildings and store-houses, which, with great propriety,
may be considered as one of the most desirable positions upon the windward
coast of Africa, to command the interior commerce of the countries
bordering upon the river Sierra Leone and its branches, and that of the
rivers to the northward, the Scarcies and adjoining rivers, the Rio Pongo,
with the Isles De Loss, Rio Grande, Rio Noonez, &c. and those which fall
into the sea from Cape Sierra Leone to Cape Palmas.
Tasso is an island adjoining, about a mile and a half distant, of some
extent, and a remarkably fertile soil. It is attached to Bance Island;
bearing cotton of a very good staple, and is capable of producing any
tropical production. Considerable labour and expense have been applied to
introduce cultivation into this island, and to exemplify to the African the
advantages derivable from his native soil, by the civil arts of life; while
under a still more scientific superintendency, it would become a possession
of very considerable consequence in an agricultural view.
Bance Island is little more than a barren rock, of about three-quarters of
a mile in extent. The entrance into the fort is through a folding door or
gate, over which, throughout the night, a watch is constantly placed. The
expectations excited by its external appearance were by no means lessened
by a view of the interior of the fort, in which were assembled several
traders, and chiefs, with their attendants. I was much the object of their
curiosity and attention; and in their manner, all came up to me, to _give
me service _, as expressed in the idiom of their language. This ceremony is
simply performed by touching the fingers, accompanied in the Timminy
language by the usual obeisance of _Currea _, or, how do you do? The reply
to this is _Ba_, which means good, I return you service.
The Grumittas, or free black people, are assembled outside the fort, in
houses or huts built with mud, upon the general construction in Africa,
which usually is an oblong square, raised little more than eight feet; or a
circle of the same height, over which is thrown a roof of bamboo, or other
thatch, supported by posts about five or six feet asunder, forming a
canopy, which shelters them from the rays of the sun, or the inclemency of
the weather, and affords a shade under which they retire in the extreme
heat of the day, where they repose in their hammocks, or rest upon their
mats. This group of buildings or huts is denominated Adam's Town, from the
black chief who presides over these labouring people. Their numbers may be
estimated at about 600. Originally they were slaves to the proprietors of
this island; but from a very humane and wise policy, they have been endowed
with certain privileges, which rescue them from an absolute state of
slavery, and prevents their being sold as slaves, unless they are convicted
by the laws and customs of their country of some crime or delinquency.
Among these people are artizans in various branches, viz. smiths,
carpenters, joiners, masons, &c. under the superintendance of Europeans in
their different trades, who for ingenuity and adroitness in their
respective capacities, would deserve the approbation even of the
connoisseur in these arts; while in many other instances they discover a
genius of the most intelligent character, and a decency in their dress and
manners distinguished from that among the surrounding tribes; which is the
never failing consequence of the influence of the arts of civilized society
over barbarous customs and habits.
[Footnote 1: Perhaps it will be considered by the reader a singular
phenomenon, that the upper region of _Palma_ was covered with snow.]
CHAPTER II.
_The Author leaves Bance Island--Visits the Colony of Sierra
Leone--Delivers his introductory Letter to the late Governor Day, from whom
he experiences a most hospitable Reception--Cursory Remarks upon that
Colony and upon the Islands of Bannana--His Embarkation for the Island of
Goree, &c._
From the 6th to the 8td April, I remained at Bance Island, and having
determined to embark for Europe, where circumstances required me by the
first conveyance, I visited the colony of Sierra Leone, then under the
government of the late Capt. William Day, of the Royal Navy, to whom I had
a recommendatory letter. His reception of me was in conformity with his
general character, distinguished for urbanity and polite hospitality; and
such were the impressions upon my mind, both from observation and report,
of the skill and penetration he possessed to fulfil the arduous duties of
his station, that they never will be effaced, and I shall ever retain the
highest respect for his memory. He was then occupied in forming plans of
defence in the colony; and had he lived, I am firmly persuaded, from
subsequent observation and enquiry, that it would in a short period have
opposed to an enemy a formidable resistance, and that it might have been
speedily rescued from that anarchy and confusion which distracted councils,
and want of unanimity had occasioned.
The colony of Sierra Leone was established by the 31st of George III.
avowedly in opposition to the Slave Trade, and for the purpose of
augmenting more natural commerce, and introducing civilization among the
natives of Africa. The grant is from the 1st of July, 1791, and to continue
for the space of 31 years. During the late war with France, in September
1794, it was nearly destroyed by a French squadron, consisting of one
two-decker, several armed ships and brigs, in the whole about seven or
eight sail; they appeared in the offing on the evening of the 27th, and in
the morning of the 28th at day-light commenced their operations; the result
of which was, that the colony was ravaged by the enemy, and many houses
burnt and destroyed. This squadron was piloted into the river by two
Americans, one of whom was a Captain Neville. The pecuniary loss to the
colony by this attack has been estimated at about 40,000_l_. independant of
buildings destroyed, valued at first cost, about 15,000_l_. more. Bance
Island experienced the same fate, and suffered in pecuniary loss upwards of
20,000_l_.
In addition to this calamity, the Sierra Leone Company had to lament the
inefficiency of its superintendants, their want of unanimity, and various
other disasters and unforeseen difficulties which operated to augment the
charge in their establishment, and diminish its funds; and with every
deference to the benevolent undertakers, whose motives merit the highest
approbation of every enlightened mind, I would observe, they have likewise
to regret their misconception of the eligible grounds upon which so
beneficent a plan is to be productive of operative influence; but as at a
future stage of my narrative, I shall be enabled from more minute
investigation to enter at large upon this interesting subject, I shall for
the present dismiss it.
On the 28th of April I embarked on board his Majesty's sloop of war the
Lark, then upon the windward station; having looked into the river for
Governor Day's dispatches, &c.; and I cannot omit this opportunity of
expressing the obligations conferred upon me by Captain Langford, the
commander, and his officers, which invariably continued during my being on
board. At day-light we weighed, and were saluted by one of the forts with
15 guns, which were returned; nothing of moment occurred during our
passage, except being once overtaken with a tornado: this is a hurricane
which prevails upon the windward coast of Africa about this season of the
year, preceding the rainy season; and it is impossible to convey by
description an adequate idea of this explosion of the elements. It
announces its approach by a small white cloud scarcely discernible, which
with incredible velocity overspreads the atmosphere, and envelopes the
affrighted mariner in a vortex of lightning, thunder, torrents of rain, &c.
exhibiting nature in one universal uproar. It is necessary when this cloud
appears at sea, to take in all sail instantaneously, and bear away right
before the furious assailant, which soon expends its awful and tremendous
violence, and nature is again hushed into peaceful tranquillity.
To the southward of Cape Sierra Leone, and in about 8 degrees north
latitude, lie the Islands of Bannana, in a direction from east to west. To
the west of Great Bannana, lie the smaller islands, which are little more
than barren rocks. The soil of the Bannanas is very fertile, and the
climate healthy, from their proximity to the sea, and the refreshing
breezes which it bestows upon them. They take their name from a fruit so
denominated; and are situated in the most eligible position for commerce,
upon the Windward Coast; combining, from their fertility of soil and
situation, great agricultural advantages, and peculiar salubrity of air. At
present the sovereignty of these islands is contended for by two chiefs, of
considerable intelligence and enterprise, named Caulker and Cleveland.
Caulker appears to be the legitimate sovereign; Cleveland's forefathers
having been established by Caulker's as _trade men_, on their account; and
by intermarriage with that family their claims are founded. James
Cleveland, who married king Caulker's sister, first began the war by his
Grummettas, on the Bannanas, attacking Caulker's people on the Plantains,
The result of this violence was, that Charles Caulker was killed in battle;
and his body mangled and cut into pieces, in the most savage and cruel
manner. In 1798, Stephen Caulker, the present chief, commenced war again,
to revenge his brother's death; and the barbarous contest has continued
ever since, marked with ferocious cruelty, and with various success to the
respective claimants. Soon after its renewal, James Cleveland died, and was
succeeded by his nephew, William, who has received his education in
England, and is a chief of no inconsiderable acquirements and talent.
Stephen Caulker has succeeded in obtaining from him the possession of the
Bannanas and Plantains, and at present sways authority over them; still,
however, exposed to the enterprising genius and intrigues of Cleveland.
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