The Jewish Manual by Judith Cohen Montefiore
J >>
Judith Cohen Montefiore >> The Jewish Manual
Pages:
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 The Jewish Manual;
OR
Practical Information in Jewish And Modern Cookery,
With a Collection of Valuable Recipes & Hints Relating to the
Toilette.
Edited by a Lady.
LONDON: 1846.
EDITOR'S PREFACE.
Among the numerous works on Culinary Science already in circulation,
there have been none which afford the slightest insight to the Cookery
of the Hebrew kitchen.
Replete as many of these are with information on various important
points, they are completely valueless to the Jewish housekeeper, not
only on account of prohibited articles and combinations being assumed
to be necessary ingredients of nearly every dish, but from the entire
absence of all the receipts peculiar to the Jewish people.
This deficiency, which has been so frequently the cause of
inconvenience and complaint, we have endeavoured in the present little
volume to supply. And in taking upon ourselves the responsibility of
introducing it to the notice of our readers, we have been actuated
by the hope that it will prove of some practical utility to those for
whose benefit it is more particularly designed.
It has been our earnest desire to simplify as much as possible the
directions given regarding the rudiments of the art, and to render the
receipts which follow, clear, easy, and concise. Our collection will
be found to contain all the best receipts, hitherto bequeathed only
by memory or manuscript, from one generation to another of the Jewish
nation, as well as those which come under the denomination of plain
English dishes; and also such French ones as are now in general use at
all refined modern tables.
A careful attention has been paid to accuracy and economy in the
proportions named, and the receipts may be perfectly depended upon, as
we have had the chief part of them tested in our own kitchen and under
our own _surveillance_.
All difficult and expensive modes of cookery have been purposely
omitted, as more properly belonging to the province of the
confectioner, and foreign to the intention of this little work; the
object of which is, to guide the young Jewish housekeeper in the
luxury and economy of "The Table," on which so much of the pleasure of
social intercourse depends.
The various acquirements, which in the present day are deemed
essential to female education, rarely leave much time or inclination
for the humble study of household affairs; and it not unfrequently
happens, that the mistress of a family understands little more
concerning the dinner table over which she presides, than the graceful
arrangement of the flowers which adorn it; thus she is incompetent to
direct her servant, upon whose inferior judgment and taste she is
obliged to depend. She is continually subjected to impositions from
her ignorance of what is required for the dishes she selects, while a
lavish extravagance, or parsimonious monotony betrays her utter
inexperience in all the minute yet indispensible details of elegant
hospitality.
However, there are happily so many highly accomplished and
intellectual women, whose example proves the compatability of uniting
the cultivation of talents with domestic pursuits, that it would be
superfluous and presumptuous were we here to urge the propriety and
importance of acquiring habits of usefulness and household knowledge,
further than to observe that it is the unfailing attribute of a
superior mind to turn its attention occasionally to the lesser objects
of life, aware how greatly they contribute to its harmony and its
happiness.
The _Cuisine_ of a woman of refinement, like her dress or her
furniture, is distinguished, not for its costliness and profusion, but
for a pervading air of graceful originality. She is quite sensible
of the regard due to the reigning fashion of the day, but her own
tasteful discrimination is always perceptible. She instinctively
avoids every thing that is hackneyed, vulgar, and common place,
and uniformly succeeds in pleasing by the judicious novelties she
introduces.
We hope, therefore, that this unpretending little work may not prove
wholly unacceptable, even to those ladies who are not of the Hebrew
persuasion, as it will serve as a sequel to the books on cookery
previously in their possession, and be the medium of presenting them
with numerous receipts for rare and exquisite compositions, which if
uncommemorated by the genius of Vatel, Ude, or Careme, are delicious
enough not only to gratify the lovers of good cheer generally, but to
merit the unqualified approbation of the most fastidious epicures.
We ought, perhaps, to apologize for the apparent incongruity of
connecting the "Toilet" with the "Kitchen;" but the receipts and
suggestions comprised in the Second Part of the work before us,
will not, we trust, be considered misplaced in a volume addressed
exclusively to the ladies.
Many of the receipts are for articles in common use, but which, with
proper directions, are prepared with greater economy and in a superior
manner at home; the others are all original receipts, many of them
extremely ancient, and given to us by a person who can vouch for their
efficacy from personal experience and observation.
We must now conclude our preliminary remarks, but cannot take leave of
our patient readers without availing ourselves of the opportunity our
editorial capacity affords, to express our hope, that with all its
faults and deficiencies "The Jewish Manual" may prove to them a useful
assistant, and be fortunate enough to meet with their lenient, kind,
and favourable consideration.
CONTENTS.
* * * * *
PART I.
INTRODUCTION.
MISCELLANEOUS OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE COOK
* * * * *
CHAPTER I. SOUPS
CHAPTER II. SAUCES AND FORCEMEAT
CHAPTER III. FISH
CHAPTER IV. MEATS AND POULTRY COOKED IN VARIOUS WAYS
CHAPTER V. VEGETABLES, OMELETTES, FONDEAUX, CROQUETTES, RISOLES, &C.
CHAPTER VI. PASTRY
CHAPTER VII. SWEET DISHES, PUDDINGS, JELLIES, CREAMS, CHARLOTTES,
SOUFLES, GATEAUX, TRIFLES, CUSTARDS, CAKES, &C.
CHAPTER VIII. PRESERVES AND BOTTLING
CHAPTER IX. PICKLING
CHAPTER X. RECEIPTS FOR INVALIDS
APPENDIX
THE TOILETTE.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I. THE COMPLEXION, &c., &c.
CHAPTER II. THE HAIR
CHAPTER III. THE TEETH
CHAPTER IV. THE HANDS AND NAILS
CHAPTER V. DRESS
CHAPTER VI. EFFECTS OF DIET ON THE COMPLEXION
CHAPTER VII. INFLUENCE OF THE MIND AS REGARDS BEAUTY
GLOSSARY.
_Aspie_, a term used for savoury jelly, in which cold poultry, meat,
&c., is often served.
_Bain-Marie_. This is a large pan filled with boiling water, in which
several saucepans can be placed when their contents are required to be
kept hot without boiling--this is a useful article in a kitchen, where
the manner in which sauces are prepared is considered deserving of
attention.
_Bechamel_, a superior kind of white sauce, used in French cookery.
_Blanquette_, a kind of fricassee with a white sauce.
_Bola-d'amour_, a very rich and expensive Spanish confection.
_Bolas_, a kind of rich cake or pudding.
_Cassereet_, a sauce prepared from the cassada, a West Indian
plant--it must be used with moderation.
_Casserole_, a name given to a crust formed of rice baked, and then
filled with mince, fricassee, or fruit.
_Chorissa_, a sausage peculiar to the Jewish kitchen, of delicate and
_piquante_ flavour.
_Consomme_, is a term now used for stock--it is a clear strong broth,
forming the basis of all soups, sauces, gravies, &c.
_Croquettes_ and _Risoles_; preparations of forcemeat, formed into
fancy shapes, and fried.
_Croutons_, sippets of bread or toast, to garnish hashes, salmis, &c.,
are so called.
_Doce_, a mixture of sugar with almonds _or_ cocoa-nut.
_Entrees_. These are side-dishes, for the first course, consisting
of cutlets, vol au vents, fricassees, fillets, sweetbreads, salmis,
scallops, &c., &c.
_Entremets_. These are side-dishes for the second course; they
comprise dressed vegetables, puddings, gateaux, pastries, fritters,
creams, jellies, timbales, &c.
_Farcie_, a French term for forcemeat; it is a mixture of savoury
ingredients, used for croquettes, balls, &c. Meat is by no means a
necessary ingredient, although the English word might seem to imply
the contrary.
_Fondeaux_, and Fondus, are savoury kinds of soufles.
_Fricandeaux_, a term for small well-trimmed pieces of meat, stewed in
various ways.
_Fricassee_. This is a name used for delicate stews, when the articles
are cut in pieces.
_Fricandelles_. These are very small fricandeaux, two or three of
which are served on one dish, and they sometimes also are delicate,
but highly-flavoured minces, formed into any approved shapes.
Flanks are large standing side-dishes.
_Gateaux_, is a kind of cake or pudding.
_Hors d'oeuvres._ These are light entrees in the first course; they
are sometimes called _assiettes_ volantes; they are handed during the
first course; they comprise anchovies, fish salads, patties of various
kinds, croquettes, risolles, maccaroni, &c.
_Maigre_, made without meat.
_Matso_, Passover cakes.
_Miroton_, a savoury preparation of veal or poultry, formed in a
mould.
_Nouilles_, a kind of vermicelli paste.
_Pique_, a French term used to express the process of larding. The
French term is a preferable one, as it more clearly indicates what is
meant.
_Puree_ is a term given to a preparation of meat or vegetables,
reduced to a pulp, and mixed with any kind of sauce, to the
consistency of thick cream. _Purees_ of vegetables are much used in
modern cookery, to serve with cutlets, callops, &c.
_Ramekin_, a savoury and delicate preparation of cheese, generally
served in fringed paper cases.
_Releves_, or _Removes_, are top and bottom dishes, which replace the
soup and fish.
_Salmis_, a hash, only a superior kind, being more delicately
seasoned, and usually made of cold poultry.
_Soufles_, a term applied to a very light kind of pudding, made
with some farinaceous substance, and generally replaces the roast of a
second course.
_Timbale_, a shape of maccaroni or rice made in a mould.
_Vol-au-vent_. This is a sort of case, made of very rich puff paste,
filled with delicate fricassee of fish, meat, or poultry, or richly
stewed fruits.
_Veloute_, an expensive white sauce.
OBSERVATIONS FOR THE USE OF THE COOK.
The receipts we have given are capable of being varied and modified by
an intelligent pains-taking cook, to suit the tastes of her employers.
Where _one_ receipt has been thought sufficient to convey the
necessary instruction for several dishes, &c., &c., it has not been
repeated for each respectively, which plan will tend to facilitate her
task.
We might, had we been inclined, have increased our collection
considerably by so doing, but have decided, from our own experience,
that it is preferable to give a limited number clearly and fully
explained, as these will always serve as guides and models for others
of the same kind.
The cook must remember it is not enough to have ascertained the
ingredients and quantities requisite, but great care and attention
must be paid to the manner of mixing them, and in watching their
progress when mixed and submitted to the fire.
The management of the oven and the fire deserve attention, and cannot
be regulated properly without practice and observation.
The art of seasoning is difficult and important.
Great judgment is required in blending the different spices or other
condiments, so that a fine flavour is produced without the undue
preponderance of either.
It is only in coarse cooking that the flavour of onions, pepper,
garlic, nutmeg, and eschalot is permitted to prevail. As a general
rule, salt should be used in moderation.
Sugar is an improvement in nearly all soups, sauces, and gravies; also
with stewed vegetables, but of course must be used with discretion.
Ketchups, Soy, Harvey's sauce, &c., are used too indiscrimately by
inferior cooks; it is better to leave them to be added at table by
those who approve of their flavour.
Any thing that is required to be warmed up a second time, should be
set in a basin placed in a _bain-marie_, or saucepan, filled with
boiling water, but which must not be allowed to boil; or the article
will become hardened and the sauce dried up.
To remove every particle of fat from the gravies of stews, &c., a
piece of white blotting-paper should be laid on the surface, and the
fat will adhere to it; this should be repeated two or three times.
It is important to keep saucepans well skimmed; the best prepared dish
will be spoiled by neglect on this point.
The difference between good and bad cookery is particularly
discernible in the preparation of forcemeats. A common cook is
satistified if she chops or minces the ingredients and moistens them
with an egg scarcely beaten, but this is a very crude and imperfect
method; they should be pounded together in a mortar until not a lump
or fibre is perceptible. Further directions will be given in the
proper place, but this is a rule which must be strictly attended to by
those who wish to attain any excellence in this branch of their art.
Eggs for forcemeats, and for every description of sweet dishes, should
be thoroughly beaten, and for the finer kinds should be passed through
a sieve.
A trustworthy zealous servant must keep in mind, that waste and
extravagance are no proofs of skill. On the contrary, GOOD COOKERY
is by no means expensive, as it makes the most of every thing, and
furnishes out of simple and economical materials, dishes which are at
once palatable and elegant.
CHAPTER I.
Soups.
STOCK OR CONSOMME.
This is the basis of all kinds of soup and sauces. Shin of beef or
ox-cheek make excellent stock, although good gravy-beef is sometimes
preferred; the bones should always be broken, and the meat cut up, as
the juices are better extracted; it is advisable to put on, at first,
but very little water, and to add more when the first quantity is
nearly dried up. The time required for boiling depends upon the
quantity of meat; six pounds of meat will take about five hours; if
bones, the same quantity will require double the time.
Gravy beef with a knuckle of veal makes a fine and nutritious stock;
the stock for white soups should be prepared with veal or white
poultry. Very tolerable stock can be procured without purchasing meat
expressly for the purpose, by boiling down bones and the trimmings of
meat or poultry.
The liquor in which beef or mutton intended for the table has been
boiled, will also, with small additions and skilful flavoring, make an
excellent soup at a trifling expense.
To thicken soups, mix a little potatoe-flour, ground rice, or pounded
vermicelli, in a little water, till perfectly smooth; add a little of
the soup to it in a cup, until sufficiently thin, then pour it into
the rest and boil it up, to prevent the raw taste it would otherwise
have; the presence of the above ingredients should not be discovered,
and judgment and care are therefore requisite.
If colouring is necessary, a crust of bread stewed in the stock will
give a fine brown, or the common browning may be used; it is made in
the following manner:
Put one pound of coarse brown sugar in a stew-pan with a lump of
clarified suet; when it begins to froth, pour in a wine-glass of port
wine, half an ounce of black pepper, a little mace, four spoonsful
of ketchup or Harvey's sauce, a little salt, and the peel of a lemon
grated; boil all together, let it grow cold, when it must be skimmed
and bottled for use.
It may also be prepared as required, by putting a small piece of
clarified fat with one ounce of coarse sugar, in an iron spoon,
melting them together, and stirring in a little ketchup and pepper.
When good stock or consomme is prepared, it is very easy to form it
into any kind of soup or sauce that may be required.
* * * * *
GRAVY SOUP.
Take about three quarts of any strong stock, seasoned with a bunch of
sweet herbs, a carrot, turnip, and a head of celery, which must not
be served in the soup. Vermicelli, maccaroni, or thin slices of carrot
and small sippets of fried bread cut in fancy shapes, are usually
served in this soup.
* * * * *
MOCK TURTLE.
Half boil a well-cleaned calf's head, then cut off all the meat in
small square pieces, and break the bones; return it to the stew-pan,
with some good stock made of beef and veal; dredge in flour, add fried
shalot, pepper, parsley, tarragon, a little mushroom ketchup, and a
pint of white wine; simmer gently until the meat is perfectly soft and
tender. Balls of force-meat, and egg-balls, should be put in a
short time before serving; the juice of a lemon is considered an
improvement.
* * * * *
MULIGATAWNY SOUP.
Take two chickens, cut them up small, as if for fricassee, flour
them well, put them in a saucepan with four onions shred, a piece of
clarified fat, pepper, salt, and two table spoonsful of curry powder;
let it simmer for an hour, then add three quarts of strong beef gravy,
and let it continue simmering for another hour; before sent to table
the juice of a lemon should be stirred in it; some persons approve of
a little rice being boiled with the stock, and a pinch of saffron is
also sometimes added.
* * * * *
ENGLISH MULIGATAWNY.
Take a knuckle of veal, stew it till half done, then cut off the
greatest part of the meat, and continue to stew down the bone in
the stock, the meat must be cut into small pieces and fried with six
onions thinly sliced, and a table spoonful of curry powder, a desert
spoonful of cayenne pepper and salt, add the stock and let the whole
gently simmer for nearly an hour, flavouring it with a little Harvey's
sauce and lemon pickle.
* * * * *
SOUP A LA JULIENNE.
Take a variety of vegetables: such as celery, carrots, turnips, leeks,
cauliflower, lettuce, and onions, cut them in shreds of small size,
place them in a stew-pan with a little fine salad oil, stew them
gently over the fire, adding weak broth from time to time; toast a
few slices of bread and cut them into pieces the size and shape of
shillings and crowns, soak them in the remainder of the broth, and
when the vegetables are well done add all together and let it simmer
for a few minutes; a lump of white sugar, with pepper and salt are
sufficient seasoning.
* * * * *
SOUPE A LA TURQUE.
Make a good gravy from shin of beef, and cut up very small various
sorts of vegetables of whatever may be in season, add spices, pepper,
and salt; when it is all stewed well down together, set it to cool and
take off the fat, then place it again on the fire to boil, and add to
two quarts of soup, one quarter of a pound of rice, beat two yolks of
eggs with a little of the stock, and when the rice is quite tender,
stir them into the soup, taking the precaution not to let the soup
boil, and to stir always the same way.
* * * * *
PEPPER POT.
Cut small pieces of any vegetables, and add pieces of smoked or salt
beef, and also of any cold poultry, roast beef or mutton, stew all
these together in two or three quarts of water, according to the
quantity of meat, &c. It must be seasoned highly with whole peppers,
allspice, mace, Jamaica pickles, and salt; it must be thoroughly
stewed, and served, without straining, in a tureen.
* * * * *
POTATOE SOUP.
Grate a pound of fine potatoes in two quarts of water, add to it the
trimmings of any meat, amounting to about a pound in quantity, a cup
of rice, a few sweet herbs, and a head of celery, stew well till the
liquor is considerably reduced, then strain it through a sieve; if,
when strained, it is too thin and watery, add a little thickening; it
should be flavoured only with white pepper and salt.
* * * * *
SOUP CRESSY.
Grate six carrots, and chop some onions with a lettuce, adding a few
sweet herbs, put them all into a stewpan, with enough of good broth
to moisten the whole, adding occasionally the remainder; when nearly
done, put in the crumb of a French roll, and when soaked, strain the
whole through a sieve, and serve hot in a tureen.
* * * * *
CARROT SOUP.
Take a dozen carrots scraped clean, rasp them, but do not use the
core, two heads of celery, two onions thinly sliced, season to taste,
and pour over a good stock, say about two quarts, boil it, then pass
it through a sieve; it should be of the thickness of cream, return it
to the saucepan, boil it up and squeeze in a little lemon juice, or
add a little vinegar.
* * * * *
PALESTINE SOUP.
Stew a knuckle of veal, and a calf's foot, and one pound of
_chorissa_, and a large fowl, in four quarts of water, add a piece of
fresh lemon peel, six Jerusalem artichokes, a bunch of sweet herbs,
a little salt and white pepper, and a little nutmeg, and a blade of
mace; when the fowl is thoroughly done, remove the white parts to
prepare for thickening, and let the rest continue stewing till the
stock is sufficiently strong, the white parts of the fowl must be
pounded and sprinkled with flower or ground rice, and stirred in the
soup after it has been strained, until it thickens.
* * * * *
A SIMPLE WHITE SOUP.
Break a knuckle of veal, place it in a stewpan, also a piece of
_chorissa_, a carrot, two onions, three or four turnips, and a blade
of mace, pour over two or three quarts of water or weak broth,
season with salt, a sprig of parsley, and whole white pepper; when
sufficiently boiled, skim and strain it, and thicken with pounded
vermicelli.
* * * * *
VERMICELLI SOUP.
Make a fine strong stock from the shin of beef, or any other part
preferred, and add, a short time before serving, a handful of
vermicelli, which should be broken, so that it may be in pieces of
convenient length, the stock should be more or less flavoured with
vegetables, and herbs, according to taste.
* * * * *
MATSO SOUP.
Boil down half a shin of beef, four pounds of gravy beef, and a calf's
foot may be added, if approved, in three or four quarts of water;
season with celery, carrots, turnips, pepper and salt, and a bunch of
sweet herbs; let the whole stew gently for eight hours, then strain
and let it stand to get cold, when the fat must be removed, then
return it to the saucepan to warm up. Ten minutes before serving,
throw in the balls, from which the soup takes its name, and which are
made in the following manner:
Take half a pound of _matso_ flour, two ounces of chopped suet, season
with a little pepper, salt, ginger, and nutmeg; mix with this, four
beaten eggs, and make it into a paste, a small onion shred and browned
in a desert spoonful of oil is sometimes added; the paste should be
made into rather large balls, and care should be taken to make them
very light.
* * * * *
TOMATA SOUP.
Take a dozen unpealed tomatas, with a bit of clarified suet, or a
little sweet oil, and a small Spanish onion; sprinkle with flour, and
season with salt and cayenne pepper, and boil them in a little gravy
or water; it must be stirred to prevent burning, then pass it through
a sieve, and thin it with rich stock to the consistency of winter
pea-soup; flavour it with lemon juice, according to taste, after it
has been warmed up and ready for serving.
* * * * *
ALMONDEGOS SOUP: A SUPERIOR WHITE SOUP.
Put a knuckle of veal and a calf's foot into two quarts of water, with
a blade of mace and a bunch of sweet herbs, a turnip, a little white
pepper, and salt; when sufficiently done, strain and skim it, and
add balls of forced meat, and egg balls. A quarter of an hour before
serving beat up the yolks of four eggs with a desert spoonful of lemon
juice, and three ounces of sweet almonds blanched and beaten with a
spoonful of powdered white sugar. This mixture is to be stirred into
the soup till it thickens, taking care to prevent its curdling.
* * * * *
A FINE VEGETABLE OR FRENCH SOUP.
Take two quarts of strong stock made of gravy beef, add to this,
carrots, turnips, leek, celery, brocoli, peas and French beans, all
cut as small as possible, add a few lumps of white sugar, pepper, and
salt, let it simmer till the vegetables are perfectly soft, and throw
in a few force-meat balls.
* * * * *
ASPARAGUS SOUP.
Take eight pounds of gravy beef, with five pints of water, a few sweet
herbs, and an onion shred, with a little pepper and salt; when the
strength of the meat is sufficiently extracted, strain off the soup,
and add to it a bundle of asparagus, cut small, with a little chopped
parsley and mint; the asparagus should be thoroughly done. A few
minutes before serving, throw in some fried bread cut up the size
of dice; pound a little spinach to a pulp, and squeeze it through a
cloth, stir about a tea-cup full of this essence into the soup, let it
boil up after to prevent a raw taste.
Pages:
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10