The Jewish Manual by Judith Cohen Montefiore
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Judith Cohen Montefiore >> The Jewish Manual
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* * * * *
SOUP MAIGRE.
Chop three lettuces, a large handful of spinach, a little chervil, a
head of celery, two or three carrots, and four onions, put them on
the fire with half a pound of butter, and let them fry till slightly
browned, season with a little salt, sifted white sugar, and white
pepper, stew all gently in five pints of boiling water for about two
hours and a half, and just before serving the soup, thicken it with
the beaten yolks of four eggs, mixed first with a little of the soup,
and then stirred into the remainder.
* * * * *
SUMMER PEA SOUP.
Take a peck of peas, separate the old from the young, boil the former
till they are quite tender in good stock, then pass them through a
sieve, and return them to the stock, add the young peas, a little
chopped lettuce, small pieces of cucumber fried to a light brown, a
little bit of mint, pepper, and salt; two or three lumps of sugar give
a fine flavor.
* * * * *
WINTER PEA SOUP.
Soak a quart of white peas in water, boil them till soft, in as much
water as will cover them, pass them through a sieve, and add them to
any broth that may be ready, a little piece of _chorissa_ or smoked
beef will improve the flavour; this soup should be served with mint
and fried bread.
* * * * *
GIBLET SOUP.
Add to a fine strong well-seasoned beef stock, of about three quarts,
two sets of giblets, which should be previously stewed separately in
one quart of water (the gizzards require scalding for some time before
they are put in with the rest); white pepper, salt, and the rind of
lemon should season them; when they are tender, add them with their
gravy to the stock, and boil for about ten minutes together, then stir
in a glass of white wine, a table spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and
the juice of half a lemon; it will require to be thickened with a
little flour browned; the giblets are served in the soup.
* * * * *
BARLEY SOUP.
Put in a stew-pan, a knuckle of mutton, or four pounds of the neck,
with three quarts of water, boil it gently and keep it well skimmed;
a sprig of parsley, a couple of sliced turnips, a carrot, an onion or
more, if approved, with a little white pepper and salt, are sufficient
seasoning, a breakfast cup full of barley should be scalded and put in
the stew-pan with the meat, if when done, the soup is thin and watery,
a little prepared barley, mixed smoothly, should be stirred in.
* * * * *
SOUP DE POISSON, OR FISH SOUP.
Make a good stock, by simmering a cod's-head in water, enough to cover
the fish; season it with pepper and salt, mace, celery, parsley, and
a few sweet herbs, with two or three onions, when sufficiently done,
strain it, and add cutlets of fish prepared in the following manner:
cut very small, well-trimmed cutlets from any fish, sole or brill are
perhaps best suited; stew them in equal quantities of water and wine,
but not more than will cover them, with a large lump of butter, and
the juice of a lemon; when they have stewed gently for about fifteen
or twenty minutes, add them to the soup, which thicken with cream and
flour, serve the soup with the cutlets in a tureen; force-meat balls
of cod's liver are sometimes added.
* * * * *
OX TAIL SOUP.
Have two well cleaned tails and a neat's foot, cut them in small
joints and soak them in water, put them in a stew-pan with a large
piece of clarified suet or fat, and let them simmer for ten minutes,
then put to them between three and four quarts of cold water, four
onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, a carrot, a turnip, a head of celery,
and season with whole pepper, allspice, two or three cloves, and salt;
let it stew till the meat is tender enough to leave the bones, then
remove it from them, as the bones are unsightly in the soup; thicken
if necessary with browned flour, and just before serving, add a glass
or more of port wine, and a little mushroom ketchup.
CHAPTER II.
Sauces.
A RICH BROWN GRAVY.
Take a little good beef consomme, or stock, a small piece of smoked
beef, or _chorissa_, a lemon sliced, some chopped shalots, a couple
of onions shred, a bay leaf, two or three cloves, and a little oil;
simmer gently, and add a little minced parsley, and a few chopped
mushrooms: skim and strain.
* * * * *
SAUCE PIQUANTE.
The above may be rendered a Sauce Piquante by substituting a little
vinegar, whole capers, allspice, and thyme, instead of the smoked
beef and lemon; a few onions and piccalilli chopped finely, is a great
addition when required to be very piquante.
A sauce like the above is very good to serve with beef that has been
boiled for broth.
* * * * *
A GOOD GRAVY FOR ROAST FOWLS.
Take a little stock, squeeze in the juice of a lemon, add a little
mushroom powder, cayenne pepper and salt; thicken with flour.
* * * * *
ANOTHER EXCELLENT RECEIPT.
Chop some mushrooms, young and fresh, salt them, and put them into a
saucepan with a little gravy, made of the trimmings of the fowl, or
of veal, a blade of mace, a little grated lemon peel, the juice of
one lemon; thicken with flour, and when ready to serve, stir in a
table-spoonful of white wine.
* * * * *
EGG SAUCE: A FINE WHITE SAUCE FOR BOILED CHICKENS, TURKEYS, OR WHITE
FRICASSEES.
Beat up the yolks of four eggs with the juice of a fine lemon, a
tea-spoonful of flour, and a little cold water, mix well together, and
set it on the fire to thicken, stirring it to prevent curdling. This
sauce will be found excellent, if not superior, in many cases where
English cooks use melted butter. If capers are substituted for the
lemon juice, this sauce will be found excellent for boiled lamb or
mutton.
* * * * *
CELERY SAUCE.
Cut in small pieces from about four to five heads of celery, which if
not very young must be peeled, simmer it till tender in half a pint of
veal gravy, if intended for white sauce, then add a spoonful of flour,
the yolks of three eggs, white pepper, salt, and the juice of one
lemon, these should be previously mixed together with a little water
till perfectly smooth and thin, and be stirred in with the sauce;
cream, instead of eggs, is used in English kitchens.
* * * * *
TOMATO SAUCE.
Skin a dozen fine tomatos, set them on the fire in a little water
or gravy, beat them up with a little vinegar, lemon juice, cayenne
pepper, and salt; some persons like the yolk of an egg, well beaten
added. Strain or not, as may be preferred.
* * * * *
GRAVY FOR A FOWL, WHEN THERE IS NO STOCK TO MAKE IT WITH.
Take the feet, wash them, cut them small, also the neck and gizzard;
season them with pepper and salt, onion, and parsley, let them simmer
gently for some time, in about a breakfast-cup of water, then strain,
thicken with flour, and add a little browning, and if liked, a small
quantity of any store sauce at hand, and it will prove an excellent
sauce.
* * * * *
SAVOURY JELLY, FOR COLD PIES, OR TO GARNISH COLD POULTRY.
Have a bare knuckle of veal, and a calf's foot or cow heel; put it
into a stew-pan with a thick slice of smoked beef, a few herbs, a
blade of mace, two or three onions, a little lemon peel, pepper
and salt, and three or four pints of water (the French add a little
tarragon vinegar). When it boils skim it, and when cold, if not clear,
boil it a few minutes with the white and shell of an egg, and pass it
through a jelly bag, this jelly with the juice of two or three lemons,
and poured into a mould, in which are put the yolks of eggs boiled
hard, forms a pretty supper dish.
* * * * *
A FINE SAUCE FOR STEAKS.
Throw into a saucepan a piece of fat the size of an egg, with two
or three onions sliced, let them brown; add a little gravy, flour, a
little vinegar, a spoonful of mustard, and a little cayenne pepper,
boil it and serve with the steaks.
* * * * *
A FISH SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER.
Put on, in a small saucepan, a cup of water, well flavored with
vinegar, an onion chopped fine, a little rasped horse-radish, pepper,
and two or three cloves, and a couple of anchovies cut small, when it
has boiled, stir carefully in the beaten yolks of two eggs, and let it
thicken, until of the consistency of melted butter.
* * * * *
A FINE FISH SAUCE.
One teacup full of walnut pickle, the same of mushroom ditto, three
anchovies pounded, one clove of garlic pounded, half a tea-spoonful of
cayenne pepper, all mixed well together, and bottled for use.
* * * * *
A NICE SAUCE TO THROW OVER BROILED MEATS.
Beat up a little salad-oil with a table-spoonful of vinegar, mustard,
pepper and salt, and then stir in the yolk of an egg; this sauce
should be highly seasoned. A sauce of this description is sometimes
used to baste mutton while roasting, the meat should be scored in
different places to allow the sauce to penetrate.
* * * * *
SAUCE FOR DUCKS.
A little good gravy, with a glass of port wine, the juice of a lemon,
highly seasoned with cayenne pepper.
* * * * *
BREAD SAUCE.
Take a large onion and boil it, with a little pepper till quite soft,
in milk, then take it out, and pour the milk over grated stale bread,
then boil it up with a piece of butter, and dredge it with flour; it
should be well beaten up with a silver fork.
The above can be made without butter or milk: take a large onion,
slice it thin, put it into a little veal gravy, add grated bread,
pepper, &c., and the yolk and white of an egg well beaten.
* * * * *
APPLE SAUCE FOR GOOSE.
Slice some apples, put them in a little water to simmer till soft,
beat them to a pulp; some consider a little powdered sugar an
improvement, but as the acid of the apples is reckoned a corrective to
the richness of the goose, it is usually preferred without.
* * * * *
MINT SAUCE.
Mix vinegar with brown sugar, let it stand about an hour, then add
chopped mint, and stir together.
* * * * *
ONION SAUCE.
Slice finely, and brown in a little oil, two or three onions; put them
in a little beef gravy, and add cayenne pepper, salt, and the juice of
a lemon. This is a nice sauce for steaks.
* * * * *
OILED BUTTER.
Put some good butter into a cup or jar, and place it before the fire
till it becomes an oil, then pour it off, so that all sediment may be
avoided.
* * * * *
TO DRAW GOOD GRAVY.
* * * * *
Cut some gravy beef into small pieces, put them in a jar, and set it
in a saucepan of cold water to boil gently for seven or eight hours,
adding, from time to time, more water as the original quantity boils
away. The gravy thus made will be the essence of the meat, and in
cases where nutriment is required in the smallest compass, will be
of great service. Soups are stronger when the meat is cut, and gravy
drawn before water is added.
* * * * *
TRUFFLE SAUCE.
Peel and slice as many truffles as required, simmer them gently with
a little butter, when they are tender, add to them good white or brown
consomme, lemon juice, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a very little white
wine.
* * * * *
MUSHROOM SAUCE.
Take about a pint of fine young button mushrooms, let them stew gently
in a white veal gravy seasoned with salt, pepper, a blade of mace, and
if approved, the grated peel of half a lemon, it should be thickened
with flour and the yolk of an egg stirred in it, just before serving;
English cooks add cream to this sauce.
* * * * *
SWEET SAUCE.
The usual way of making sauces for puddings, is by adding sugar
to melted butter, or thin egg sauce, flavoring it with white wine,
brandy, lemon peel, or any other flavor approved of.
* * * * *
MELTED BUTTER.
Although this sauce is one of the most simple, it is very rarely that
it is well made. Mix with four ounces of butter, a desert spoonful
of flour, when well mixed, add three table spoonsful of water, put it
into a clean saucepan kept for the purpose, and stir it carefully
one way till it boils; white sauce to throw over vegetables served on
toast, is made in the same way, only putting milk and water, instead
of water only.
* * * * *
SAUCE WITHOUT BUTTER FOR BOILED PUDDINGS.
Mix a table-spoonful of flour, with two of water, add a little wine,
lemon peel grated, a small bit of clarified suet, of the size of a
walnut, grated nutmeg, and sugar, put on in a saucepan, stirring one
way, and adding water if too thick, lemon juice, or essence of noyeau,
or almonds may be substituted to vary the flavour.
* * * * *
SAUCE ROBERT FOR STEAKS.
Chop up some onions, throw them into a saucepan with a bit of
clarified fat, let them fry till brown, then add pepper, salt, a
little gravy, mustard, lemon juice, and vinegar; boil it all, and pour
over the steaks.
* * * * *
CAPER SAUCE.
This is merely melted butter with a few pickled capers simmered in it,
or they may be put into a sauce made of broth thickened with egg, and
a little flour.
* * * * *
SAVORY HERB POWDER.
It is useful to select a variety of herbs, so that they may always
be at hand for use: the following are considered to be an excellent
selection, parsley, savory, thyme, sweet majoram, shalot, chervil, and
sage, in equal quantities; dry these in the oven, pound them finely
and keep them in bottles well stopped.
* * * * *
SEASONING FOR DUCKS AND GEESE.
Mix chopped onion with an equal quantity of chopped sage, three times
as much grated stale bread, a little shred suet, pepper, salt, and a
beaten egg to bind it, this is generally used for geese and ducks, the
onions are sometimes boiled first to render them less strong.
* * * * *
ENGLISH EGG SAUCE.
Boil two eggs hard, chop them finely, and warm them up in finely made
melted butter, add a little white pepper, salt, a blade of mace, and a
very small quantity of nutmeg.
* * * * *
SAUCE A LA TARTARE.
Mix the yolk of an egg with oil, vinegar, chopped parsley, mustard,
pepper, and salt; a spoonful of pate de diable or French mustard,
renders the sauce more piquante.
* * * * *
A FINE SAUCE FOR ROAST MUTTON.
Mix a little port wine in some gravy, two table-spoonfuls of vinegar,
one of oil, a shalot minced, and a spoonful of mustard, just before
the mutton is served, pour the sauce over it, then sprinkle it with
fried bread crumbs, and then again baste the meat with the sauce; this
is a fine addition to the mutton.
* * * * *
ASPARAGUS SAUCE, TO SERVE WITH LAMB CHOPS.
Cut some asparagus, or sprew, into half inch lengths, wash them, and
throw them into half a pint of gravy made from beef, veal, or mutton
thickened, and seasoned with salt, white pepper, and a lump of white
sugar, the chops should be delicately fried and the sauce served in
the centre of the dish.
* * * * *
BROWN CUCUMBER SAUCE.
Peel and cut in thick slices, one or more fresh cucumbers, fry them
until brown in a little butter, or clarified fat, then add to them
a little strong beef gravy, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of vinegar;
some cooks add a chopped onion browned with the cucumbers.
* * * * *
WHITE CUCUMBER SAUCE.
Take out the seeds of some fresh young cucumbers, quarter them, and
cut them into pieces of two inch lengths, let them lay for an hour in
vinegar and water, then simmer them till thoroughly soft, in a veal
broth seasoned with pepper, salt, and a little lemon juice; when ready
for serving, pour off the gravy and thicken it with the yolks of a
couple of eggs stirred in, add it to the saucepan; warm up, taking
care that it does not curdle.
* * * * *
BROWNED FLOUR FOR MAKING SOUPS AND GRAVIES DARK AND THICK.
Spread flour on a tin, and place it in a Dutch oven before the fire,
or in a gentle oven till it browns; it must often be turned, that the
flour may be equally coloured throughout. A small quantity of this
prepared and laid by for use, will be found useful.
* * * * *
BROWNED BREAD CRUMBS.
Grate into fine crumbs, about five or six ounces of stale bread,
and brown them in a gentle oven or before the fire; this is a more
delicate way of browning them than by frying.
* * * * *
CRISPED PARSLEY.
Wash and drain a handful of fresh young sprigs of parsley, dry
them with a cloth, place them before the fire on a dish, turn them
frequently, and they will be perfectly crisp in ten minutes.
* * * * *
FRIED PARSLEY.
When the parsley is prepared as above, fry it in butter or clarified
suet, then drain it on a cloth placed before the fire.
* * * * *
BREAD CRUMBS FOR FRYING.
Cut slices of bread without crust, and dry them gradually in a cool
oven till quite dry and crisp, then roll them into fine crumbs, and
put them in a jar for use.
* * * * *
SPINACH GREEN.
Pound to a pulp in a mortar a handful of spinach, and squeeze it
through a hair sieve; then put it into a cup or jar, and place it in
a basin of hot water for a few minutes, or it may be allowed to simmer
on the fire; a little of this stirred into spring soups, improve their
appearance.
* * * * *
VELOUTE, BECHAMEL.
These preparations are so frequently mentioned in modern cookery, that
we shall give the receipts for them, although they are not appropriate
for the Jewish kitchen. Veloute is a fine white sauce, made by
reducing a certain quantity of well-flavoured consomme or stock,
over a charcoal fire, and mixing it with boiling cream, stirring it
carefully till it thickens.
Bechamel is another sort of fine white stock, thickened with cream,
there is more flavouring in this than the former, the stock is made of
veal, with some of the smoked meats used in English kitchens, butter,
mace, onion, mushrooms, bay leaf, nutmeg, and a little salt. An
excellent substitute for these sauces can in Jewish kitchens be made
in the following way:
Take some veal broth flavored with smoked beef, and the above named
seasonings, then beat up two or three yolks of eggs, with a little of
the stock and a spoonful of potatoe flour, stir this into the
broth, until it thickens, it will not be quite as white, but will be
excellent.
* * * * *
FORCEMEAT OR FARCIE.
Under this head is included the various preparations used for balls,
tisoles, fritters, and stuffings for poultry and veal, it is a branch
of cooking which requires great care and judgment, the proportions
should be so blended as to produce a delicate, yet savoury flavor,
without allowing any particular herb or spice to predominate.
The ingredients should always be pounded well together in a mortar,
not merely chopped and moistened with egg, as is usually done by
inexperienced cooks; forcemeat can be served in a variety of forms,
and is so useful a resource, that it well repays the attention it
requires.
* * * * *
A SUPERIOR FORCEMEAT FOR RISOLLES, FRITTERS, AND SAVORY MEAT BALLS.
Scrape half a pound of the fat of smoked beef, and a pound of lean
veal, free from skin, vein, or sinew, pound it finely in a mortar
with chopped mushrooms, a little minced parsley, salt and pepper,
and grated lemon peel, then have ready the crumb of two French rolls
soaked in good gravy, press out the moisture, and add the crumb to the
meat with three beaten eggs; if the forcemeat is required to be very
highly flavored, the gravy in which the rolls are soaked should be
seasoned with mushroom powder; a spoonful of ketchup, a bay leaf, an
onion, pepper, salt, and lemon juice, add this panada to the pounded
meat and eggs, form the mixture into any form required, and either fry
or warm in gravy, according to the dish for which it is intended.
Any cold meats pounded, seasoned, and made according to the above
method are excellent; the seasoning can be varied, or rendered simpler
if required.
* * * * *
COMMON VEAL, STUFFING.
Have equal quantities of finely shred suet and grated crumbs of bread,
add chopped sweet herbs, grated lemon peel, pepper, and salt, pound it
in a mortar; this is also used for white poultry, with the addition
of a little grated smoked beef, or a piece of the root of a tongue
pounded and mixed with the above ingredients.
* * * * *
FISH FORCEMEAT.
Chop finely any kind of fish, that which has been already dressed
will answer the purpose, then pound it in a mortar with a couple of
anchovies, or a little anchovy essence, the yolk of a hard boiled
egg, a little butter, parsley or any other herb which may be approved,
grated lemon peel, and a little of the juice, then add a little bread
previously soaked, and mix the whole into a paste, and form into
balls, or use for stuffing, &c.
The liver or roe of fish is well suited to add to the fish, as it is
rich and delicate.
* * * * *
FORCEMEAT FOR DRESSING FISH FILLETS.
Pound finely anchovies, grated bread, chopped parsley, and the yolk of
a hard boiled egg, add grated lemon peel, a little lemon juice, pepper
and salt, and make into a paste with two eggs.
* * * * *
FORCEMEAT FOR DRESSING CUTLETS, ETC.
Add to grated stale bread, an equal quantity of chopped parsley,
season it well, and mix it with clarified suet, then brush the cutlets
with beaten yolks of eggs, lay on the mixture thickly with a knife,
and sprinkle over with dry and fine bread crumbs.
* * * * *
EGG BALLS.
Beat the hard yolks of eggs in a mortar, make it into a paste with
the yolk of a raw egg, form the paste into very small balls, and throw
them into boiling water for a minute or so, to harden them.
* * * * *
PREPARATION FOR CUTLETS OF FOWL OR VEAL.
Make a smooth batter of flour, and a little salad oil, and two eggs,
a little white pepper, salt, and nutmeg, turn the cutlets well in
this mixture, and fry a light brown, garnish with slices of lemon,
and crisped parsley, this is done by putting in the parsley after the
cutlets have been fried, it will speedily crisp; it should then be
drained, to prevent its being greasy.
CHAPTER III.
Fish.
PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
When fish is to be boiled, it should be rubbed lightly over with salt,
and set on the fire in a saucepan or fish-kettle sufficiently large,
in hard cold water, with a little salt, a spoonful or two of vinegar
is sometimes added, which has the effect of increasing its firmness.
Fish for broiling should be rubbed over with vinegar, well dried in
a cloth and floured. The fire must be clear and free from smoke, the
gridiron made quite hot, and the bars buttered before the fish is put
on it. Fish to be fried should be rubbed in with salt, dried, rolled
in a cloth, and placed for a few minutes before the fire previous to
being put in the pan.
* * * * *
FISH FRIED IN OIL.
Soles, plaice, or salmon, are the best kinds of fish to dress in
this manner, although various other sorts are frequently used. When
prepared by salting or drying, as above directed, have a dish ready
with beaten eggs, turn the fish well over in them, and sprinkle it
freely with flour, so that the fish may be covered entirely with it,
then place it in a pan with a good quantity of the best frying oil at
boiling heat; fry the fish in it gently, till of a fine equal brown
colour, when done, it should be placed on a cloth before the fire
for the oil to drain off; great care should be observed that the oil
should have ceased to bubble when the fish is put in, otherwise it
will be greasy; the oil will serve for two or three times if strained
off and poured into a jar. Fish prepared in this way is usually served
cold.
* * * * *
FRIED SOLES IN THE ENGLISH WAY.
Prepare the soles as directed in the last receipt, brush them over
with egg, dredge them with stale bread crumbs, and fry in boiling
butter; this method is preferable when required to be served hot.
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