The Jewish Manual by Judith Cohen Montefiore
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Judith Cohen Montefiore >> The Jewish Manual
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ESCOBECHE.
Take some cold fried fish, place it in a deep pan, then boil half a
pint of vinegar with two table spoonsful of water, and one of oil,
a little grated ginger, allspice, cayenne pepper, two bay leaves, a
little salt, and a table spoonful of lemon juice, with sliced onions;
when boiling, pour it over the fish, cover the pan, and let it stand
twenty-four hours before serving.
* * * * *
FISH STEWED WHITE.
Put an onion, finely chopped, into a stew-pan, with a little oil, till
the onion becomes brown, then add half a pint of water, and place
the fish in the stew-pan, seasoning with pepper, salt, mace, ground
allspice, nutmeg, and ginger; let it stew gently till the fish is
done, then prepare the beaten yolks of four eggs, with the juice of
two lemons, and a tea spoonful of flour, a table spoonful of cold
water, and a little saffron, mix well in a cup, and pour it into
the stew-pan, stirring it carefully one way until it thickens. Balls
should be thrown in about twenty minutes before serving; they are made
in the following way: take a little of the fish, the liver, and roe,
if there is any, beat it up finely with chopped parsley, and spread
warmed butter, crumbs of bread, and seasoning according to taste;
form this into a paste with eggs, and make it into balls of a moderate
size; this is a very nice dish when cold; garnish with sliced lemon
and parsley.
* * * * *
AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWED FISH IN THE DUTCH FASHION.
Take three or four parsley roots, cut them into pieces, slice several
onions and boil in a pint of water till tender, season with lemon
juice, vinegar, saffron, pepper, salt, and mace, then add the fish,
and let it stew till nearly finished, when remove it, and thicken the
gravy with a little flour and butter, and the yolk of one egg, then
return the fish to the stew-pan, with balls made as directed in the
preceding receipt, and boil up.
* * * * *
FISH STEWED BROWN.
Fry some fish of a light brown, either soles, slices of salmon,
halibut, or plaice, let an onion brown in a little oil, add to it a
cup of water, a little mushroom ketchup or powder, cayenne pepper,
salt, nutmeg, and lemon juice, put the fish into a stew-pan with the
above mixture, and simmer gently till done, then take out the fish and
thicken the gravy with a little browned flour, and stir in a glass of
port wine; a few truffles, or mushrooms, are an improvement.
* * * * *
WATER SOUCHY.
Take a portion of the fish intended to be dressed, and stew it down
with three pints of water, parsley roots, and chopped parsley, and
then pulp them through a sieve, then add the rest of the fish, with
pepper, salt, and seasoning; and serve in a deep dish.
* * * * *
A SUPERIOR RECEIPT FOR STEWED CARP.
Clean the fish thoroughly, put it into a saucepan, with a strong rich
gravy, season with onion, parsley roots, allspice, nutmegs, beaten
cloves, and ginger, let it stew very gently till nearly done, then
mix port wine and vinegar in equal quantities, coarse brown sugar and
lemon juice, a little flour, with some of the gravy from the saucepan,
mix well and pour over the fish, let it boil till the gravy thickens.
Pike is excellent stewed in this manner.
* * * * *
FILLETS OF FISH.
Fillets of salmon, soles, &c., fried of a delicate brown according to
the receipt already given, and served with a fine gravy is a very nice
dish.
If required to be very savory, make a fish force-meat, and lay it
thickly on the fish before frying; fillets dressed in this way are
usually arranged round the dish, and served with a sauce made of good
stock, thickened and seasoned with cayenne pepper, lemon juice, and
mushroom essence; piccalilli are sometimes added cut small.
* * * * *
BAKED HADDOCK.
Carefully clean a fresh haddock, and fill it with a fine forcemeat,
and sew it in securely; give the fish a dredging of flour, and pour on
warmed butter, sprinkle it with pepper and salt, and set it to bake
in a Dutch-oven before the fire, basting it, from time to time, with
butter warmed, and capers; it should be of a rich dark brown, and it
is as well to dredge two or three times with flour while at the fire,
the continual bastings will produce sufficient sauce to serve with it
without any other being added.
Mackarel and whiting prepared in this manner are excellent, the latter
should be covered with a layer of bread crumbs, and arranged in a
ring, and the forcemeat, instead of stuffing them, should be formed
into small balls, and served in the dish as a garnish.
The forcemeat must be made as for veal stuffing, with the addition of
a couple of minced anchovies, cayenne pepper, and butter instead of
suet.
* * * * *
A NICE WAY OF DRESSING RED HERRINGS.
Open them, cut off the tails and heads, soak them in hot water for an
hour, then wipe them dry; mix with warmed butter one beaten egg, pour
this over the herrings, sprinkle with bread crumbs, flour, and white
pepper, broil them and serve them very hot.
* * * * *
BAKED MACKAREL WITH VINEGAR.
Cut off the heads and tails, open and clean them, lay them in a
deep pan with a few bay leaves, whole pepper, half a tea-spoonful of
cloves, and a whole spoonful of allspice, pour over equal quantities
of vinegar and water, and bake for an hour and a half, in a gentle
oven; herrings and sprats are also dressed according to this receipt.
* * * * *
FISH SALAD.
Cut in small pieces any cold dressed fish, turbot or salmon are the
best suited; mix it with half a pint of small salad, and a lettuce
cut small, two onions boiled till tender and mild, and a few truffles
thinly sliced; pour over a fine salad mixture, and arrange it into a
shape, high in the centre, and garnish with hard eggs cut in slices;
a little cucumber mixed with the salad is an improvement. The mixture
may either be a common salad mixture, or made as follows: take the
yolks of three hard boiled eggs, with a spoonful of mustard, and a
little salt, mix these with a cup of cream, and four table-spoonsful
of vinegar, the different ingredients should be added carefully and
worked together smoothly, the whites of the eggs may be trimmed and
placed in small heaps round the dish as a garnish.
* * * * *
IMPANADA.
Cut in small pieces halibut, plaice, or soles, place them in a deep
dish in alternate layers, with slices of potatoes and dumplings made
of short-crust paste, sweetened with brown sugar, season well with
small pickles, peppers, gerkins, or West India pickles; throw over a
little water and butter warmed, and bake it thoroughly.
* * * * *
WHITE BAIT.
This is such a delicate fish that there are few cooks who attempt to
dress it without spoiling it; they should not be touched but thrown
from the dish into a cloth with a handful of flour; shake them
lightly, but enough to cover them well with the flour, then turn them
into a sieve expressly for bait to free them from too great a quantity
of the flour, then throw the fish into a pan with plenty of boiling
butter, they must remain but an instant, for they are considered
spoilt if they become the least brown; they should be placed lightly
on the dish piled up high in the centre, brown bread and butter is
always served with them; when devilled they are also excellent, and
are permitted to become brown; they are then sprinkled with cayenne
pepper, and a little salt, and served with lemon juice.
This receipt was given by a cook who dressed white bait to perfection.
* * * * *
A DUTCH FRICANDELLE.
Take two pounds of dressed fish, remove the skin and bones, cut in
small pieces with two or three anchovies, and season well, soak the
crumb of a French roll in milk, beat it up with the fish and three
eggs: butter a mould, sprinkle it with raspings, place in the fish
and bake it; when done, turn out and serve either dry or with
anchovy sauce; if served dry, finely grated crumbs of bread should be
sprinkled thickly over it, and it should be placed for a few minutes
before the fire to brown.
* * * * *
FISH FRITTERS.
Make a force-meat of any cold fish, form it into thin cakes, and fry
of a light brown, or enclose them first in thin paste and then fry
them. The roes of fish or the livers are particularly nice prepared in
this way.
* * * * *
FISH OMELET.
Shred finely any cold fish, season it, and mix with beaten eggs; make
it into a paste, fry in thin cakes like pancakes, and serve hot on a
napkin; there should be plenty of boiling butter in the pan, as they
should be moist and rich; there should be more eggs in the preparation
for omelets than for fritters.
* * * * *
SCALLOPED FISH.
Take any dressed fish, break it in small pieces, put it into tin
scallops, with a few crumbs of bread, a good piece of butter, a little
cream if approved, white pepper, salt, and nutmeg; bake in an oven for
ten minutes, or brown before the fire; two or three mushrooms mixed,
or an anchovy will be found an improvement.
* * * * *
ANOTHER WAY.
Break the fish into pieces, pour over the beaten yolk of an egg,
sprinkle with pepper and salt, strew with bread crumbs, chopped
parsley, and grated lemon peel, and squeeze in the juice of lemon,
drop over a little warmed butter, and brown before the fire.
CHAPTER IV.
Directions for Various Ways of Dressing Meat and Poultry.
INTRODUCTORY REMARKS.
Boiling is the most simple manner of cooking, the great art in
this process is to boil the article sufficiently, without its being
overdone, the necessity of slow boiling cannot be too strongly
impressed upon the cook, as the contrary, renders it hard and of a bad
color; the average time of boiling for fresh meat is half an hour to
every pound, salt meat requires half as long again, and smoked meat
still longer; the lid of the saucepan should only be removed for
skimming, which is an essential process.
Roasting chiefly depends on the skilful management of the fire, it is
considered that a joint of eight pounds requires two hours roasting;
when first put down it should be basted with fresh dripping, and
afterwards with its own dripping, it should be sprinkled with salt,
and repeatedly dredged with flour, which browns and makes it look rich
and frothy.
Broiling requires a steady clear fire, free from flame and smoke, the
gridiron should be quite hot before the article is placed on it, and
the bars should be rubbed with fat, or if the article is thin-skinned
and delicate, with chalk; the gridiron should be held aslant to
prevent the fat dripping into the fire; the bars of a gridiron should
be close and fine. Frying is easier than broiling, the fat, oil or
butter in which the article is fried must be boiling, but have ceased
to bubble before it is put in the pan, or it will be greasy and black:
there is now a new description of fryingpan, called a saute pan, and
which will be found extremely convenient for frying small cutlets or
collops.
Stewing is a more elaborate mode of boiling; a gentle heat with
frequent skimmings, are the points to be observed.
Glazing is done by brushing melted jelly over the article to be glazed
and letting it cool, and then adding another coat, or in some cases
two or three, this makes any cold meats or poultry have an elegant
appearance.
Blanching makes the article plump and white. It should be set on the
fire in cold water, boil up and then be immersed in cold water,
where it should remain some little time. Larding (the French term is
_Pique_, which the inexperienced Jewish cook may not be acquainted
with, we therefore use the term in common use) is a term given to
a certain mode of garnishing the surface of meat or poultry: it
is inserting small pieces of the fat of smoked meats, truffles, or
tongue, which are trimmed into slips of equal length and size, into
the flesh of the article at regular distances, and is effected by
means of larding pins.
Poelee and Blanc, are terms used in modern cookery for a very
expensive mode of stewing: it is done by stewing the article with
meat, vegetables, and fat of smoked meats, all well seasoned; instead
of placing it to stew in water it is placed on slices of meat covered
with slices of fat and the vegetables and seasoning added, then water
enough to cover the whole is added.
Blanc differs from Poelee, in having a quantity of suet added, and
being boiled down before the article is placed to stew in it.
Braising is a similar process to Poelee, but less meat and vegetable
is used.
* * * * *
TO CLARIFY SUET.
Melt down with care fine fresh suet, either beef or veal, put it into
a jar, and set it in a stew-pan of water to boil, putting in a sprig
of rosemary, or a little orange flower water while melting, this is
a very useful preparation and will be found, if adopted in English
kitchens, to answer the purpose of lard and is far more delicate and
wholesome: it should be well beaten till quite light with a wooden
fork.
* * * * *
OLIO.
Put eight pounds of beef in sufficient water to cover it, when the
water boils take out the meat, skim off the fat, and then return the
meat to the stew-pan, adding at the same time two fine white cabbages
without any of the stalk or hard parts; season with pepper, salt, and
a tea-spoonful of white sugar, let it simmer on a slow fire for
about five hours, about an hour before serving, add half a pound of
_chorisa_, which greatly improves the flavor.
* * * * *
AN EXCELLENT RECEIPT FOR STEWING A RUMP OF BEEF.
Chop fine a large onion, four bay leaves, and a little parsley, add to
these half an ounce of ground ginger, a tea-spoonful of salt, a blade
of mace, a little ground allspice, some lemon sliced, and some of the
peel grated; rub all these ingredients well into the meat, then place
it into a stew-pan with three parts of a cup of vinegar, a calf's-foot
cut in small pieces and a pint of water, stew gently till tender,
when the fat must be carefully skimmed off the gravy, which must be
strained and poured over the meat.
* * * * *
ALAMODE BEEF, OR SOUR MEAT.
Cover a piece of the ribs of beef boned and filletted, or a piece of
the round with vinegar diluted with water, season with onions, pepper,
salt, whole allspice, and three or four bay leaves, add a cup full
of raspings, and let the whole stew gently for three or four hours,
according to the weight of the meat; this dish is excellent when cold.
A rump steak stewed in the same way will be found exceedingly fine.
* * * * *
KIMMEL MEAT.
Place a small piece of the rump of beef, or the under cut of a sirloin
in a deep pan with three pints of vinegar, two ounces of carraway
seeds tied in a muslin bag, salt, pepper, and spices, cover it down
tight, and bake thoroughly in a slow oven. This is a fine relish for
luncheons.
* * * * *
BEEF AND BEANS.
Take a piece of brisket of beef, cover it with water, when boiling
skim off the fat, add one quarter of French beans cut small, two
onions cut in quarters, season with pepper and salt, and when nearly
done take a dessert-spoonful of flour, one of coarse brown sugar, and
a large tea-cup full of vinegar, mix them together and stir in with
the beans, and continue stewing for about half an hour longer.
* * * * *
KUGEL AND COMMEAN.
Soak one pint of Spanish peas and one pint of Spanish beans all night
in three pints of water; take two marrow bones, a calf's-foot, and
three pounds of fine gravy-beef, crack the bones and tie them to
prevent the marrow escaping, and put all together into a pan; then
take one pound of flour, half a pound of shred suet, a little grated
nutmeg and ground ginger, cloves and allspice, one pound of coarse
brown sugar, and the crumb of a slice of bread, first soaked in water
and pressed dry, mix all these ingredients together into a paste,
grease a quart basin and put it in, covering the basin with a plate
set in the middle of the pan with the beans, meat, &c. Cover the pan
lightly down with coarse brown paper, and let it remain all the night
and the next day, (until required) in a baker's oven, when done, take
out the basin containing the pudding, and skim the fat from the gravy
which must be served as soup; the meat, &c., is extremely savory and
nutritious, but is not a very seemly dish for table. The pudding must
be turned out of the basin, and a sweet sauce flavored with lemon and
brandy is a fine addition.
* * * * *
SAUER KRAUT.
Boil about seven or eight pounds of beef, either brisket or a fillet
off the shoulder, in enough water to cover it, when it has boiled for
one hour, add as much sauer kraut, which is a German preparation,
as may be approved, it should then stew gently for four hours and be
served in a deep dish. The Germans are not very particular in removing
the fat, but it is more delicate by so doing.
* * * * *
BEEF WITH CELERY, AND WHITE BEANS AND PEAS.
Soak for twelve hours one pint of dried white peas, and half a pint of
the same kind of beans, they must be well soaked, and if very dry, may
require longer than twelve hours, put a nice piece of brisket of about
eight pounds weight in a stew-pan with the peas and beans, and three
heads of celery cut in small pieces, put water enough to cover, and
season with pepper and salt only, let it all stew slowly till the meat
is extremely tender and the peas and beans quite soft, then add four
large lumps of sugar and nearly a tea-cup of vinegar; this is a very
fine stew.
* * * * *
BEEF COLLOPS.
Cut thin slices off from any tender part, divide them into pieces of
the size of a wine biscuit, flatten and flour them, and lightly fry
in clarified fat, lay them in a stew-pan with good stock, season to
taste, have pickled gherkins chopped small, and add to the gravy a few
minutes before serving.
* * * * *
TO WARM COLD ROAST BEEF WHEN NOT SUFFICIENTLY DONE.
Cut it in slices, also slice some beetroot or cucumber and put them
in a saucepan with a little gravy which need not be strong, two
table-spoonsful of vinegar, one of oil, pepper, salt, a little chopped
lettuce and a few peas, simmer till the vegetables and meat are
sufficiently dressed.
* * * * *
TO HASH BEEF.
The meat should be put on the fire in a little broth or gravy, with
a little fried onion, pepper, salt, and a spoonful of ketchup, or any
other sauce at hand, let it simmer for about ten minutes, then mix in
a cup a little flour with a little of the gravy, and pour it into the
stewpan to thicken the rest; sippets of toast should be served with
hashes, a little port wine, a pinch of saffron, or a piece _chorisa_
may be considered great improvements.
* * * * *
STEAKS WITH CHESNUTS.
Take a fine thick steak, half fry it, then flour and place it in a
stewpan with a little good beef gravy, season with cayenne pepper and
salt, when it has simmered for about ten minutes, add a quarter of a
hundred good chesnuts, peeled and the inner skin scraped off, let them
stew with the steak till well done, this is a very nice dish, a little
Espagnole sauce heightens the flavor.
* * * * *
A SIMPLE STEWED STEAK.
Put a fine steak in a stewpan with a large piece of clarified suet
or fat, and a couple of onions sliced, let the steak fry for a few
minutes, turning it several times; then cover the steak with gravy,
or even water will answer the purpose, with a tea-cup full of button
onions, or a Spanish onion sliced, a little lemon peel, pepper, salt,
and a little allspice; simmer till the steak is done, when the steak
must be removed and the gravy be carefully skimmed, then add to it a
little browning and a spoonful of mushroom ketchup; the steak must
be kept on a hot stove or returned to the stewpan to warm up. If the
gravy is not thick enough, stir in a little flour.
* * * * *
BRISKET STEWED WITH ONIONS AND RAISINS.
Stew about five pounds of brisket of beef in sufficient water to
cover, season with allspice, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and when nearly
done, add four large onions cut in pieces and half a pound of raisins
stoned, let them remain simmering till well done; and just before
serving, stir in a tea-spoonful of brown sugar and a table spoonful of
flour.
* * * * *
BRISKET STEWED.
Take about six or seven pounds of brisket of beef, place it in a
stewpan with only enough water to cover it, season with a little spice
tied in a bag; when the meat is tender and the spices sufficiently
extracted to make the gravy rich and strong, part of it must be
removed to another saucepan; have ready a variety of vegetables cut
into small shapes, such as turnips, carrots, mushrooms, cauliflowers,
or whatever may be in season; stew them gently till tender in the
gravy, the meat must then be glazed and the gravy poured in the dish,
and the vegetables arranged round.
* * * * *
BEEF RAGOUT.
Take a small well cut piece of lean beef, lard it with the fat
of smoked beef, and stew it with good gravy, highly seasoned with
allspice, cloves, pepper and salt; when the meat is well done remove
it from the gravy, which skim carefully and free from every particle
of fat, and add to it a glass of port wine, the juice of a lemon, half
a tea-spoonful of cayenne pepper, and a little mushroom ketchup; the
beef should be glazed when required to have an elegant appearance.
A few very small forcemeat balls must be poached in the gravy, which
must be poured over the meat, and the balls arranged round the dish;
this is a very savoury and pretty dish.
* * * * *
TO SALT BEEF.
This may be done by mixing a pound of common salt, half an ounce of
saltpetre and one ounce of coarse brown sugar, and rubbing the meat
well with it, daily for a fortnight or less, according to the weather,
and the degree of salt that the meat is required to have. Or by
boiling eight ounces of salt, eight ounces of sugar, and half an ounce
of saltpetre in two quarts of water, and pouring it over the meat, and
letting it stand in it for eight or ten days.
* * * * *
SPICED BEEF.
Take a fine thick piece of brisket of beef not fat, let it lay three
days in a pickle, as above, take it out and rub in a mixture of spices
consisting of equal quantities of ground all-spice, black pepper,
cloves, ginger and nutmegs, and a little brown sugar, repeat this
daily for a week, then cover it with pounded dried sweet herbs, roll
or tie it tightly, put it into a pan with very little water, and bake
slowly for eight hours, then take it out, untie it and put a heavy
weight upon it; this it a fine relish when eaten cold.
* * * * *
SMOKED BEEF.
As there are seldom conveniences in private kitchens for smoking
meats, it will generally be the best and cheapest plan to have them
ready prepared for cooking. All kinds of meats smoked and salted,
are to be met with in great perfection at all the Hebrew butchers.
_Chorisa_, that most refined and savoury of all sausages, is to be
also procured at the same places. It is not only excellent fried in
slices with poached eggs or stewed with rice, but imparts a delicious
flavor to stews, soups, and sauces, and is one of the most useful
resources of the Jewish kitchen.
* * * * *
A WHITE FRICANDEAU OF VEAL.
Take four or five pounds of breast of veal, or fillet from the
shoulder; stuff it with a finely flavoured veal stuffing and put it
into a stewpan with water sufficient to cover it, a calf's-foot cut
in pieces is sometimes added, season with one onion, a blade of mace,
white pepper and salt, and a sprig of parsley, stew the whole gently
until the meat is quite tender, then skim and strain the gravy and
stir in the beaten yolks of four eggs, and the juice of two lemons
previously mixed smoothly with a portion of the gravy, button
mushrooms, or pieces of celery stewed with the veal are sometimes
added by way of varying the flavor, egg and forcemeat balls garnish
the dish. When required to look elegant it should be pique.
* * * * *
A BROWN FRICASSEE.
Cut a breast of veal in pieces, fry them lightly and put them into a
stewpan with a good beef gravy, seasoned with white pepper, salt, a
couple of sliced onions (previously browned in a little oil), and a
piece of whole ginger, let it simmer very slowly for two hours taking
care to remove the scum or fat, have ready some rich forcemeat and
spread it about an inch thick over three cold hard boiled eggs, fry
these for a few moments and put them in the saucepan with the veal;
before serving, these balls should be cut in quarters, and the gravy
rendered more savory by the addition of lemon juice and half a glass
of white wine, or a table-spoonful of walnut liquor, if the gravy is
not sufficiently thick by long stewing, a little browned flour may be
stirred in.
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