The Jewish Manual by Judith Cohen Montefiore
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Judith Cohen Montefiore >> The Jewish Manual
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* * * * *
A SAVOURY PIE FOR PERSONS OF DELICATE DIGESTION.
Cut up fowl and sweetbread, lay in the dish in alternate layers with
meat, jelly, and the yolks of hard-boiled eggs without the whites,
and flavor with lemon-juice, white pepper, and salt; cover with rice
prepared as follows: boil half a pound of rice in sufficient water to
permit it to swell; when tender beat it up to a thick paste with the
yolk of one or two eggs, season with a little salt, and spread it over
the dish thickly. The fowl and sweetbread should have been previously
simmered till half done in a little weak broth; the pie must be baked
in a gentle oven, and if the rice will not brown sufficiently, finish
with a salamander.
* * * * *
DESCAIDES.
Take the livers of chickens or any other poultry; stew it gently in
a little good gravy seasoned with a little onion, mushroom essence,
pepper, and salt; when tender, remove the livers, place them on a
paste board, and mince them; return them to the saucepan, and stir
in the yolks of one or two eggs, according to the quantity of liver,
until the gravy becomes thick; have a round of toast ready on a hot
plate, and serve it on the toast; this is a very nice luncheon or
supper dish.
CHAPTER V.
Vegetables and Sundries.
DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING AND BOILING VEGETABLES.
Vegetables are extremely nutritious when sufficiently boiled, but are
unwholesome and indigestible when not thoroughly dressed; still they
should not be over boiled, or they will lose their flavor.
Vegetables should be shaken to get out any insects, and laid in water
with a little salt.
Soft water is best suited for boiling vegetables, and they require
plenty of water; a little salt should be put in the saucepan with
them, and the water should almost invariably be boiling when they are
put in.
Potatoes are much better when steamed. Peas and several other
vegetables are also improved by this mode of cooking them, although it
is seldom adopted in England.
* * * * *
MASHED POTATOES.
Boil till perfectly tender; let them be quite dry, and press them
through a cullender, or mash and beat them well with a fork; add a
piece of butter, and milk, or cream, and continue beating till they
are perfectly smooth; return them to the saucepan to warm, or they may
be browned before the fire. The chief art is to beat them sufficiently
long, which renders them light.
Potatoe balls are mashed potatoes formed into balls glazed with the
yolk of egg, and browned with a salamander.
* * * * *
POTATO WALL, OR EDGING.
Raise a wall of finely-mashed potatoes, of two or three inches high,
round the dish; form it with a spoon to the shape required, brush it
over with egg, and put it in the oven to become hot and brown; if it
does not brown nicely, use the salamander. Rice is arranged the
same way to edge curries or fricassees; it must be first boiled till
tender.
* * * * *
POTATOE SHAVINGS.
Take four fine large potatoes, and having peeled them, continue to cut
them up as if peeling them in ribbons of equal width; then throw the
shavings into a frying-pan, and fry of a fine brown; they must be
constantly moved with a silver fork to keep the pieces separate. They
should be laid on a cloth to drain, and placed in the dish lightly.
* * * * *
THE FRENCH WAY OF DRESSING SPINACH.
Wash and boil till tender, then squeeze and strain it; press it in
a towel till almost dry; put it on a board, and chop it as finely as
possible; then return it to the saucepan, with butter, pepper, and
salt; stir it all the time, and let it boil fast.
* * * * *
STEWED SPINACH.
Scald and chop some spinach small; cut up an onion; add pepper and
salt and brown sugar, with a little vinegar, stew all together gently;
serve with poached eggs or small forcemeat fritters. This forms a
pretty side-dish, and is also a nice way of dressing spinach to serve
in the same dish with cutlets.
* * * * *
TO STEW SPANISH BEANS AND PEAS.
Soak the beans over night in cold water; they must be stewed in only
sufficient water to cover them, with two table spoonsful of oil, a
little pepper and salt, and white sugar. When done they should be
perfectly soft and tender.
* * * * *
PEAS STEWED WITH OIL.
Put half a peck of peas into a stew-pan, half a lettuce chopped small,
a little mint, a small onion cut up, two table-spoonsful of oil, and a
dessert-spoonful of powdered sugar, with water sufficient to cover the
peas, watching, from time to time, that they do not become too
dry; let them stew gently, taking care that they do not burn, till
perfectly soft. When done they should look of a yellowish brown.
French beans, brocoli, and greens, stewed in the above manner will be
found excellent.
* * * * *
CUCUMBER MANGO.
Cut a large cucumber in half, length ways, scoop out the seedy part,
and lay it in vinegar that has been boiled with mustard-seed, a little
garlic, and spices, for twenty-four hours, then fill the cucumber with
highly-seasoned forcemeat, and stew it in a rich gravy, the cucumber
must be tied to keep it together.
* * * * *
CABBAGE AND RICE.
Scald till tender a fine summer white cabbage, then chop it up small,
and put it into a stewpan, with a large cup of rice, also previously
scalded, add a little water, a large piece of butter, salt and pepper;
let it stew gently till thoroughly done, stirring from time to time,
and adding water and butter to prevent its getting too thick; there
should be no gravy in the dish when served.
* * * * *
PALESTINE SALAD.
Take a dozen fine Jerusalem artichokes, boil till tender, let the
water strain off, and when cold cut them in quarters, and pour over
a fine salad mixture; the artichokes should lay in the sauce half an
hour before serving. This salad is a very refreshing one, and has the
advantage of being extremely wholesome.
* * * * *
A SPRING DISH.
Take one quart of young peas, a little mint, a few lumps of sugar, a
little salt and white pepper, simmer them gently in one pint of water,
when the peas are half done, throw in small dumplings made of paste,
as if for short crust, and sweetened with a little brown sugar, beat
up two eggs, and drop in a spoonful at a time, just before serving;
it will require a deep dish, as the liquor is not to be strained off.
Some prefer the eggs poached.
* * * * *
CARROTS AU BEURRE.
Boil them enough to be perfectly tender, then cut them in quarters,
and again in lengths of three inches, drain them from the water, and
put to them a piece of butter, salt and pepper, and simmer them for a
few minutes without boiling; a large piece of butter must be used.
French beans are good dressed in the same way.
* * * * *
PUREE OF VEGETABLES.
Take any vegetable that may be approved, boil till well done, drain
away all water, reduce the vegetable to a pulp, and add to it any fine
sauce, to make it of the consistency of a very thick custard.
* * * * *
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES FRIED.
Cut in slices after parboiling them, dip in batter, and fry.
* * * * *
STEWED RED CABBAGE.
Clean and remove the outer leaves, slice it as thinly as possible, put
it in a saucepan with a large piece of butter, and a tea cup full of
water, salt and pepper; let it stew slowly till very tender.
* * * * *
MUSHROOMS AU NATUREL.
Clean some fine fresh mushrooms, put them in a saucepan with a large
piece of butter, pepper and salt; let them simmer until tender, and
serve them with no other sauce than that in which they have been
dressed. Also stewed in a veal gravy, and served with white sauce on a
toast, they form a nice and pretty dish.
The large flap mushrooms may be stewed in gravy, or simply broiled,
seasoned with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon juice.
* * * * *
DRY TOMATO SOUP.
Brown a couple of onions in a little oil, about two table-spoonsful
or more, according to the number of tomatos; when hot, add about six
tomatos cut and peeled, season with cayenne pepper and salt, and let
the whole simmer for a short time, then cut thin slices of bread, and
put as much with the tomatos as will bring them to the consistency
of a pudding; it must be well beaten up, stir in the yolks of two or
three eggs, and two ounces of butter warmed; turn the whole into a
deep dish and bake it very brown. Crumbs of bread should be strewed
over the top, and a little warmed butter poured over.
* * * * *
DEVILLED BISCUITS.
Butter some biscuits on both sides, and pepper them well, make a paste
of either chopped anchovies, or fine cheese, and spread it on the
biscuit, with mustard and cayenne pepper, and grill them.
* * * * *
SAVOURY EGGS.
Boil some eggs hard, put them into cold water, cut them into halves,
take out the yolks, beat them up in a mortar with grated hung beef,
fill the halves with this mixture, fry lightly, and serve with brown
gravy.
* * * * *
SAVOURY CHEESE CAKES.
Grate finely an equal quantity of stale bread and good cheese, season
with a little pepper and salt, mix into a batter with eggs, form into
thin cakes and fry.
* * * * *
SCALLOPED EGGS.
Poach lightly three or four eggs, place them in a dish, pour upon them
a little warm butter; sprinkle with pepper, salt, and nutmeg, strew
over with crumbs of bread, and brown before the fire.
* * * * *
MACCARONI AND CHEESE.
Boil some maccaroni in milk or water until tender, then drain them and
place on a dish with bits of butter and grated Parmesan cheese; when
the dish is filled grate more cheese over it and brown before the
fire.
* * * * *
A FINE RECEIPT FOR A SAVOURY OMELETTE.
Break four eggs, beat them up till thin enough to pass through a
hair sieve, then beat them up till perfectly smooth and thin; a small
omelette frying-pan is necessary for cooking it well. Dissolve in it
a piece of butter, about an ounce and a half, pour in the egg, and as
soon as it rises and is firm, slide it on to a warm plate and fold
it over; it should only be fried on one side, and finely minced herbs
should be sprinkled over the unfried side with pepper and salt. A
salamander is frequently held over the unfried side of the omelette to
take off the rawness it may otherwise have.
* * * * *
CHORISA OMELETTE.
Add to the eggs, after they are well beaten as directed in the last
receipt, half a tea-cup full of finely minced _chorisa_; this omelette
must be lightly fried on both sides, or the salamander held over long
enough to dress the _chorisa_.
* * * * *
RAMAKINS.
Mix together three eggs, one ounce of warmed butter, and two of fine
cheese grated, and bake in small patty pans.
* * * * *
RISSOLES.
Make a fine forcemeat of any cold meat, poultry, or fish, enclose it
in a very rich puff paste, rolled out extremely thin. They may be made
into balls or small triangular turnovers, or into long narrow ribbons;
the edges must be pressed together, that they may not burst in frying.
They form a pretty dish.
* * * * *
CROQUETTES.
Pound any cold poultry, meat, or fish, make it into a delicate
forcemeat; the flavor can be varied according to taste; minced
mushrooms, herbs, parsley, grated lemon peel, are suitable for poultry
and veal; minced anchovies should be used instead of mushrooms when
the croquettes are made of fish. Form the mixture into balls or oval
shapes the size of small eggs; dip them into beaten eggs, thickly
sprinkle with bread crumbs or pounded vermicelli, and fry of a
handsome brown.
* * * * *
CASSEROLE AU RIZ.
Boil some rice till quite tender, make it into a firm paste with one
egg and a couple of tablespoons of strong gravy; then line the inside
of a mould with the paste of sufficient thickness to turn out without
breaking. Some cooks fill the mould instead of lining it only, and
scoop away the centre. After it is turned out the rice must stand till
cold, before it is removed from the mould; then fill the rice with
friccassee of fowl and sweetbread, with a rich white sauce, and place
it in the oven to become hot and brown. The mould used for a casserole
is oval and fluted, and resembles a cake mould. It is as well to
observe, it cannot be made in a jelly mould.
* * * * *
A FONDU.
Make into a batter one ounce and a half of potatoe flour, with the
same quantity of grated cheese and of butter, and a quarter of a
pint of milk or cream; add a little salt, very little pepper, and the
well-beaten yolks of four fine fresh eggs; when all this is well mixed
together, pour in the whites of the eggs, well whisked to a froth;
pour the mixture into a deep soup plate or dish, used expressly for
the purpose, and bake in a moderate oven. The dish should be only half
filled with the _fondu_, as it will rise very high. It must be served
the moment it is ready, or it will fall. It is a good plan to hold a
salamander over it while being brought to table.
* * * * *
PETITS FONDEAUS.
Make a batter as for a fondu, but use rice flour or arrow root instead
of potatoe flour; add the egg in the same manner as for a fondu, and
pour the mixture into small paper trays fringed round the top. The
mixture should only half fill the trays or cases.
CHAPTER VI.
Pastry.
DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING PASTE.
To make good light paste requires much practice; as it is not only
from the proportions, but from the manner of mixing the various
ingredients, that paste acquires its good or bad qualities.
Paste should be worked up very lightly, and no strength or pressure
used; it should be rolled out _from you_, as lightly as possible. A
marble slab is better than a board to make paste on.
The flour should be dried for some time before the fire previously to
being used. In forming it into paste it should be wetted as little as
possible, to prevent its being tough. It is a great mistake to imagine
_lard_ is better adapted for pastry than butter or clarified fat; it
may make the paste lighter, but neither the color nor the flavor will
be nearly so good, and the saving is extremely trifling.
To ensure lightness, paste should be set in the oven directly it is
made.
Puff paste requires a brisk oven.
Butter should be added to the paste in small pieces.
The more times the paste is folded and rolled, if done with a light
hand and the butter added with skill, the richer and lighter it will
prove. It is no longer customary to line the dish for pies and fruit
tarts.
* * * * *
PLAIN PUFF PASTE.
Mix a pound of flour into a stiff paste with a little water, first
having rubbed into it about two ounces of butter, then roll it out;
add by degrees the remainder of the butter (there should be altogether
half a pound of butter), fold the paste and roll about two or three
times.
* * * * *
VERY RICH PUFF PASTE.
Mix in the same manner equal quantities of butter and flour, taking
care to have the flour dried for a short time before the fire; it may
be folded and rolled five or six times. This paste is well suited to
vol-au-vents and tartlets; an egg well beaten and mixed with the paste
is sometimes added.
* * * * *
PLAIN SHORT CRUST.
Put half a pound of fresh butter to a pound of flour, add the yolks of
two eggs and a little powdered sugar, mix into a paste with water, and
roll out once.
* * * * *
EGG PASTE, CALLED IN MODERN COOKERY NOUILLES.
This is formed by making a paste of flour and beaten eggs, without
either butter or water; it must be rolled out extremely thin and left
to dry; it may then be cut into narrow strips or stamped with paste
cutters. It is more fashionable in soups than vermicelli.
* * * * *
BEEF DRIPPING PASTE.
Mix half a pound of clarified dripping into one pound of flour; work
it into a paste with water, and roll out twice. This is a good paste
for a common meat pie.
* * * * *
GLAZE FOR PASTRY.
When the pastry is nearly baked, brush it over with white of egg,
cover it thickly with sifted sugar, and brown it in the oven, or it
may be browned with a salamander.
For savory pies beat the yolk of an egg, dip a paste-brush into it,
and lay it on the crust before baking.
* * * * *
FRUIT TARTS OR PIES.
A fruit tart is so common a sweet that it is scarcely necessary to
give any directions concerning it. Acid fruits are best stewed before
putting into a pie: the usual proportions are half a pound of sugar
to a quart of fruit--not quite so much if the fruit is ripe; the fruit
should be laid high in the middle of the dish, to make the pie a good
shape. It is the fashion to lay over the crust, when nearly baked,
an icing of the whites of eggs whisked with sugar; the tart or pie is
then replaced in the oven.
* * * * *
A VERY FINE SAVOURY PIE.
Lay a fine veal cutlet, cut in pieces and seasoned, at the bottom of
the dish; lay over it a layer of smoked beef fat, then a layer of fine
cold jelly made from gravy-beef and veal, then hard boiled eggs in
slices, then chicken or sweetbread, and then again the jelly, and
so on till the dish is filled; put no water, and season highly with
lemon-juice, essence of mushroom, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; also,
if approved, a blade of mace: small cakes of fine forcemeat are an
improvement; cover with a fine puff paste, and brush over with egg,
and bake.
* * * * *
TARTLETS.
Make a very rich light puff paste, and roll it out to half an inch of
thickness; it should be cut with fluted paste-cutters, lightly baked,
and the centre scooped out afterwards, and the sweetmeat or jam
inserted; a pretty dish of pastry may be made by cutting the paste in
ribbons of three inches in length, and one and a half in width; bake
them lightly, and pile them one upon another, with jam between each,
in the form of a cone.
* * * * *
CHEESECAKES.
Warm four ounces of butter, mix it with the same quantity of
loaf-sugar sifted, grate in the rind of three lemons, squeeze in
the juice of one, add three well-beaten eggs, a little nutmeg, and
a spoonful of brandy; put this mixture into small tins lined with a
light puff paste, and bake.
Cheesecakes can be varied by putting almonds beaten instead of the
lemon, or by substituting Seville oranges, and adding a few slices of
candied orange and lemon peel.
* * * * *
GIBLET PIE.
Prepare the giblets as for "_stewed giblets_" they should then be laid
in a deep dish, covered with a puff paste, and baked.
* * * * *
MOLINA PIE.
Mince finely cold veal or chicken, with smoked beef or tongue; season
well, add lemon-juice and a little nutmeg, let it simmer in a small
quantity of good beef or veal gravy; while on the fire, stir in the
yolks of four eggs, put it in a dish to cool, and then cover with a
rich pastry, and bake it.
* * * * *
VOL AU VENT.
This requires the greatest lightness in the pastry, as all depends
upon its rising when baked; it should be rolled out about an inch and
a half in thickness, cut it with a fluted tin of the size of the dish
in which it is to be served. Also cut a smaller piece, which must be
rolled out considerably thinner than an inch, to serve as a lid for
the other part; bake both pieces, and when done, scoop out the
crumb of the largest, and fill it with a white fricassee of chicken,
sweetbread, or whatever may be selected; the sauce should be well
thickened, or it would soften, and run through the crust.
* * * * *
A VOL-AU-VENT OF FRUIT.
It is now the fashion to fill _vol-au-vents_ with fruits richly stewed
with sugar until the syrup is almost a jelly; it forms a very pretty
entremet.
* * * * *
PETITS VOL-AU-VENTS.
These are made in the same way, but cut in small rounds, the crumb
of the larger is scooped out, and the hollow filled with any of the
varieties of patty preparations or preserved fruits.
* * * * *
MINCE PIES.
Grease and line tin patty-pans with a fine puff paste rolled out thin;
fill them with mince-meat, cover them with another piece of paste,
moisten the edges, close them carefully, cut them evenly round, and
bake them about half an hour in a well-heated oven.
* * * * *
PATTY MEATS
May be prepared from any dressed materials, such as cold dressed veal,
beef and mutton, poultry, sweetbreads, and fish; the chief art is to
mince them properly, and give them the appropriate flavor and sauce;
for veal, sweetbreads, and poultry, which may be used together or
separately, the usual seasonings are mace, nutmeg, white pepper, salt,
mushrooms minced, or in powder, lemon-peel, and sometimes the juice also;
the mince is warmed in a small quantity of white sauce, not too thin,
and the patty crusts, when ready baked, are filled with it.
For beef and mutton the seasonings are salt, pepper, allspice, a few
sweet herbs powdered, with the addition, if approved, of a little
ketchup; the mince must be warmed in strong well-thickened beef gravy.
If the mince is of fish, season with anchovy sauce, nutmeg,
lemon-peel, pepper and salt; warm it, in a sauce prepared with butter,
flour, and milk or cream, worked together smoothly and stirred till
it thickens; the mince is then simmered in it for a few minutes, till
hot; the seasonings may be put with the sauces, instead of with the
mince.
CHAPTER VII.
Sweet Dishes, Puddings, Cakes, &c.
GENERAL REMARKS.
The freshness of all ingredients for puddings is of great importance.
Dried fruits should be carefully picked, and sometimes washed and
should then be dried. Rice, sago, and all kinds of seed should be
soaked and well washed before they are mixed into puddings.
Half an hour should be allowed for boiling a bread pudding in a half
pint basin, and so on in proportion.
All puddings of the custard kind require gentle boiling, and when
baked must be set in a moderate oven. By whisking to a solid froth the
whites of the eggs used for any pudding, and stirring them into it at
the moment of placing it in the oven, it will become exceedingly light
and rise high in the dish.
All baked puddings should be baked in tin moulds in the form of a deep
pie dish, but slightly fluted, it should be well greased by pouring
into it a little warmed butter, and then turned upside down for a
second, to drain away the superfluous butter; then sprinkle, equally
all over, sifted white sugar, or dried crumbs of bread, then pour the
pudding mixture into the mould; it should, when served, be turned
out of the mould, when it will look rich and brown, and have the
appearance of a cake.
To ensure the lightness of cakes, it is necessary to have all the
ingredients placed for an hour or more before the fire, that they may
all be warm and of equal temperature; without this precaution, cakes
will be heavy even when the best ingredients are employed. Great
care and experience are required in the management of the oven; to
ascertain when a cake is sufficiently baked, plunge a knife into it,
draw it instantly away, when, if the blade is sticky, return the cake
to the oven; if, on the contrary, it appears unsoiled the cake is
ready.
The lightness of cakes depends upon the ingredients being beaten
well together. All stiff cakes may be beaten with the hand, but pound
cakes, sponge, &c., should be beaten with a whisk or spoon.
* * * * *
BOLA D'AMOR.
The recipe for this much celebrated and exquisite confection is
simpler than may be supposed from its elaborate appearance, it
requires chiefly care, precision, and attention. Clarify two pounds of
white sugar; to ascertain when it is of a proper consistency, drop a
spoonful in cold water, form it into a ball, and try if it sounds
when struck against a glass; when it is thus tested, take the yolks
of twenty eggs, mix them up gently and pass them through a sieve,
then have ready a funnel, the hole of which must be about the size of
vermicelli; hold the funnel over the sugar, while it is boiling over a
charcoal fire; pour the eggs through, stirring the sugar all the time,
and taking care to hold the funnel at such a distance from the sugar,
as to admit of the egg dropping into it. When the egg has been a few
minutes in the sugar, it will be hard enough to take out with a silver
fork, and must then be placed on a drainer; continue adding egg to
the boiling sugar till enough is obtained; there should be previously
prepared one pound of sweet almonds, finely pounded and boiled in
sugar, clarified with orange flower-water only; place in a dish a
layer of this paste, over which spread a layer of citron cut in thin
slices, and then a thick layer of the egg prepared as above; continue
working thus in alternate layers till high enough to look handsome.
It should be piled in the form of a cone, and the egg should form the
last layer. It must then be placed in a gentle oven till it becomes
a little set, and the last layer slightly crisp; a few minutes will
effect this. It must be served in the dish in which it is baked, and
is generally ornamented with myrtle and gold and silver leaf.
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