The Jewish Manual by Judith Cohen Montefiore
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Judith Cohen Montefiore >> The Jewish Manual
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* * * * *
A SOUFLE.
Take half a pint of cream and the same quantity of new milk, and warm
them together in a clean saucepan, meanwhile make a smooth batter with
four ounces of rice-flour or potatoe-flour, and stir into the milk,
let it simmer, stirring all the time till it thickens; then add two
to three ounces of fresh butter, and white sifted sugar enough to
sweeten, and a little grated lemon peel; then take it off the fire and
stir quickly to it the well-beaten yolks of six to eight eggs, butter
the pan and pour the mixture into it, when on the point of being
placed into the oven, add the whites of the eggs thoroughly whisked;
the pan must be only half filled, as it will rise very high; it must
be served immediately it is taken from the oven, even in passing to
the dinner table a salamander should be held over it, to prevent its
falling and becoming heavy and unsightly. The French flavour a soufle
with orange flour-water or vanilla, and the rind of a Seville orange
is sometimes substituted for the rind of a lemon; there are dishes
made expressly for soufles.
* * * * *
A PLAIN SOUFLE.
Mix well together six ounces of rice-flour, arrowroot, or _tous les
mois_, with half a pint of milk flavoured with essence of almond
and lemon peel, or orange-flour water, let it thicken over the fire,
stirring to keep it smooth, sweeten with white sugar, add the beaten
yolks of five eggs, proceed as in the last receipt, adding the whisked
whites at the moment of placing the soufle into the oven; if
there happen to be no soufle dish, a cake-tin may make a tolerable
substitute, a paper fringed should then line the tin and a napkin
should be twisted round it when brought to table.
* * * * *
A SWEET OMELET.
Beat up three or four eggs, pour them into an omelet pan, and sprinkle
a little white sugar over them while frying, hold a salamander or hot
shovel over the uppermost side of the omelet, as it must only be fried
on one side. As soon as it is set, slide it on to a hot dish, double
it, and sprinkle sugar over it and serve quickly.
* * * * *
OMLETTE SOUFLEE.
Fry the eggs as directed for sweet omelet, using about five yolks and
two whites, all of which require being finely beaten and strained.
Soften a little preserve by holding it over the fire, or mixing a
little warm water with it, spread it slightly over the omelette, have
the remainder of the whites whisked to a froth with white sugar, and
lay it on the preserve; slide the omelette on to a hot dish, double
it, and serve directly.
* * * * *
FANCY CREAMS.
Put into a basin a pint of cream, to which add four ounces of powdered
white sugar, and the rind of a lemon rubbed on a lump of sugar, and a
glass of sherry wine; whisk them well and mix with it half an ounce
of dissolved isinglass, beat it all thoroughly together, and fill the
mould, which should be set in ice till wanted. A table spoonful of
marasquino added to the above, will make _Italian cream_. A table
spoonful of fresh or preserved pine-apple will make _pine-apple
cream_; this will require the addition of a little lemon syrup. A
table spoonful of ratafia, will make it _ratifia cream_.
The juice of strawberries or raspberries make fine fruit creams;
_mille fruit cream_ is made by mixing with the cream any kind of small
preserved fruit.
* * * * *
RICE SOUFLES.
Boil well some fine picked rice, in pure fresh milk, sweeten and
flavour with a bay leaf, lemon peel, and a stick of cinnamon, all
which must be taken out when the rice is done, then line with it
a round dish, or soufle dish, have ready apples previously boiled,
sweetened, and beat up smoothly, place the apple lightly in the centre
rather higher in the middle than at the sides, beat up the whites of
eggs to a froth, sweeten and flavour with lemon, or noyau essence;
place it in small heaps tastefully on the apple and rice, and brown
delicately with a salamander. This soufle may have stewed cherries or
any _other_ kind of fruit, instead of the apples if preferred.
* * * * *
BOILED CUSTARD.
Take a pint of milk, let it simmer in a very clean saucepan, flavor
it with lemon-peel and a bay leaf, and sweeten to taste; while gently
boiling, add the beaten yolks of four eggs, and the whites of two,
continue stirring until the custard thickens, when it must be removed
from the fire, but it is requisite to stir it until it cools. It is
necessary to strain the milk before the eggs are added, and also to
pass the eggs through a sieve. Custards are flavoured sometimes
with essence of almonds; a little cream added to the milk is a great
improvement. The above mixture may be baked in small cups; they
require a quarter of an hour to bake.
* * * * *
CALF'S FEET JELLY.
Boil two feet in two quarts, or five pints of water, till the water
has half wasted; strain, and when cold, take off the fat, then put it
in the saucepan with lump sugar, lemon juice, and white wine to taste,
also a little lemon peel; when simmered a few minutes, throw in the
whites of two eggs, and their shells broken, which will have the
effect of clarifying the jelly; let it boil about ten minutes after
the scum rises, then pour it through a flannel bag or thick cloth,
dipping the bag or cloth first into hot water; pass the jelly through
it until clear, then pour it into moulds and put them in a cool place
to set. One calf's foot and one cow heel will be more economical than
two calfs feet. If fruit is desired to be in the jelly, it must be put
in when the jelly begins to stiffen in the mould.
* * * * *
ORANGE JELLY.
This can be made with calf's feet or without. One quart of water will
require one ounce of isinglass, simmer the isinglass in the water,
and add the peel of one lemon and one orange; when the isinglass is
dissolved, add the juice of a lemon and six fine oranges; although the
quantity must vary according to the season for them, sweeten with half
a pound of white sugar; a Seville orange is added if there should not
be much flavor in the others.
Lemon jelly is made in the same way; the peel of a Seville orange and
of a lemon is used, with the juice of five lemons; rather more sugar
will be required with this jelly than with the former.
Punch jelly is made in the same way. An equal quantity of brandy
and rum, with the juice of two or three lemons is mixed with the
isinglass, which is dissolved in one pint of water, the other pint of
liquid being made up by the lemon juice and spirits.
The essence of noyeau is reckoned to give an exquisite flavor, in this
case it requires to be coloured with a few drops of cochineal.
* * * * *
AN EASY TRIFLE.
Soak three sponge cakes and half a pound of macaroons and ratafias
in one wine glass of brandy and three of white wine, lay them at the
bottom of the trifle dish, and pour over nearly a pint of thick rich
custard, made of equal portions of milk and cream, with seven eggs,
according to directions for "Custards;" before the custard is added,
jam and sweetmeats are sometimes spread over the cakes; a fine light
froth is prepared with cream and the whites of two eggs, flavored with
wine and sugar, heap it over the trifle lightly.
* * * * *
A STILL MORE SIMPLE ONE, AND QUICKLY MADE.
Soak ratafia cakes in wine, with a little brandy; pour over a thick
custard, and cover with a froth of the white of eggs, flavored with
wine and sweetened with white sugar.
* * * * *
BLANCMANGE.
To a quart of milk add half an ounce of fine isinglass, a handful
of beaten almonds, and two or three bitter almonds, a couple of bay
leaves, and a piece of lemon peel; when the isinglass is dissolved,
strain the milk into a basin; sweeten with four ounces of white sugar,
and pour into a mould.
The juice of fresh strawberries is a fine addition to blancmange.
* * * * *
A JUDITHA.
Put some gooseberries into a saucepan with very little water, when
they are soft, pulp them through a sieve, and add several well-beaten
yolks of eggs, and sweeten with white sugar; have ready a shape of
biscuit ice, or any other cream ice that may be preferred, take off a
thick slice of the ice from the top carefully, and without breaking,
so that it may be replaced on the ice. Scoop out a large portion of
the ice which may be mixed with the gooseberry cream, and fill the
hollow with it. Cover the shape with the piece that was removed and
serve. This is an elegant dish, the ice should be prepared in a round
mould--brown-bread ice is particularly well adapted to a Juditha.
* * * * *
TOURTE A LA CREME.
This is a fashionable and delicate description of tart. A couple of
round cutters about the size of a pie plate are required for it, one
of the cutters must be about two inches smaller than the other, if
they are fluted the tourte will have a better appearance.
Roll out some very rich puff paste to the thickness of one inch, and
cut two pieces with the larger tin cutter, then press the smaller
cutter through one of these pieces, and remove the border which will
be formed round it; this must be laid very evenly upon the other piece
of paste, and slightly pressed to make it adhere; place the tourte in
an oven to bake for about twenty minutes, then let it become cool, but
not cold, and fill it with a fine custard or with any rich preserves;
if the latter, a well whipped cream may be laid lightly over; the
pastry may be glazed if approved.
* * * * *
THE GROSVENOR PUDDING.
Beat half a pound of butter with the same quantity of white sugar
until it is like cream, then beat up five eggs and add them with half
a pound of flour, a quarter of a pound of currants, two ounces of
candied orange and lemon peel cut in thin slices, and a few drops
of lemon essence; when these ingredients are well mixed and beaten,
butter a pudding tin, pour in the mixture, and bake in a moderately
quick oven.
* * * * *
CITRON PUDDING.
Cut in slices two ounces of citron, the same quantity of candied
orange and lemon peel, add to them four ounces of loaf sugar, and four
of fresh butter; line a dish with fine puff paste, and beat up to a
froth the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, fill the dish with
these ingredients and bake half an hour. The dish should be shallow.
* * * * *
STEWED PEARS.
Peel, core, and quarter a dozen fine large baking pears, put them into
a stewpan with half a pound of white sugar and sufficient cold water
to cover them; with a small quantity of the peelings, a few cloves,
and a little cochineal tied up in a muslin bag, let them stew gently,
and closely covered until tender.
* * * * *
BAKED PEARS.
Peel them and stick a couple of cloves in each pear, place them in a
deep dish, with half a pound of brown sugar and a little water, let
them bake till quite tender.
* * * * *
STEWED PIPPINS.
Peel the pippins and stew them gently with a little water, white
sugar, and a little lemon peel; preserve is usually used to ornament
the top of each apple; they should, when done, look white and rather
transparent.
* * * * *
SIESTA CAKE.
Take one pound of butter, warm it over the fire with a little milk,
put it into a pan with a pound of flour, six eggs, a quarter of a
pound of sweet almonds finely pounded, and two table-spoonsful of
yeast; beat these ingredients well together into a light paste, and
set it before the fire to rise, butter the inside of a pan, and fill
it with alternate layers of the paste, and of pounded almonds, sugar,
citron, and cinnamon; when baked, and while hot, make holes through
the siesta with a small silver skewer, taking care not to break it,
and pour over clarified sugar till it is perfectly soaked through.
* * * * *
A PLAIN BOLA.
Take three quarters of a pound of white sugar, three quarters of a
pound of fresh butter, two eggs, one pound and a half of flour, three
spoonsful of yeast, a little milk, and two ounces of citron cut thin,
and mix into a light paste; bake in a tin, and strew powdered sugar
and cinnamon over it before baking.
The above ingredients are often baked in small tins or cups.
* * * * *
ALMOND TEA-CAKES.
Take half-a-pound of flour, three ounces of which are to be put aside
for rolling out the cakes, the other five ounces, with a quarter of
a pound of fresh butter, are to be set before the fire for a few
minutes; after which mix with it half a pound of sugar, a quarter of a
pound of sweet almonds, chopped fine, and a couple of eggs; make these
ingredients into thin cakes, and strew over them ground almonds and
white sugar, and bake in a brisk oven.
* * * * *
OIL TWIST.
Take half a quartern of dough, one gill of the best Florence oil,
half a pound of currants, half a pound of moist sugar, and a little
cinnamon; mix all well together, make it up in the form of a twist,
and bake it.
* * * * *
CINNAMON CAKES.
Rub half a pound of fresh butter into a pound of flour; work it well
together, then add half a pound of sifted sugar, and a tea-spoonful of
pounded cinnamon, and make it into a paste, with three eggs; roll it,
and cut into small cakes, with tin cutters.
* * * * *
RICH PLUM CAKE.
Beat to a cream one pound of butter, to which add the same quantity of
sifted loaf sugar and of fine flour, the whites of ten eggs beaten to
a froth, and the yolks of the same also beaten till quite smooth
and thin, and half a nutmeg grated; lastly, work in one pound of
well-washed currants, half a pound of mixed candied peels, cut small,
and a glass of brandy; bake for two hours.
* * * * *
DIET-BREAD CAKE.
Beat together five eggs and half a pound of white sugar, then add six
ounces of flour well dried and sifted, a little lemon-juice and grated
lemon-peel; bake in a moderate oven.
* * * * *
DROP CAKES.
Mix one pound of flour with the same quantity of butter, sugar, and
currants; make these into a paste with a couple of eggs, add a little
orange flower-water and a little white wine; if the paste is likely
to be too thin when two eggs are used, omit the white of one; drop the
mixture when ready on a tin plate, and bake.
* * * * *
A COMMON CAKE.
Rub in with one pound of flour six ounces of butter, and two
tea-spoonsful of yeast, to a paste; set it to rise, then mix in five
eggs, half a pound of sugar, and a quarter of a pint of milk; add
currants or carraways, and beat well together. If required to
be richer, put more butter and eggs, and add candied citron and
lemon-peel.
* * * * *
A SODA CAKE.
Mix with the above ingredients one drachm of soda, which should be
rubbed in with the flour. This is reckoned a wholesome cake, and half
the quantity of eggs are required, or it may be rendered a fine rich
cake by increasing the quantity of eggs, butter, and fruit.
* * * * *
A PLAIN CAKE.
Work into two pounds of dough a quarter of a pound of sugar, the same
of butter; add a couple of eggs, and bake in a tin.
* * * * *
A POUND CAKE.
Beat to cream a pound of butter and a pound of sifted loaf sugar; add
eight beaten eggs, stir in lightly three quarters of a pound of flour,
beat well together, and bake for one hour in a brisk oven; currants
may be added if, approved.
* * * * *
BUTTER CAKES.
Take equal quantities of butter and sugar, say half a pound of each,
grate the rind of a lemon, add a little cinnamon, and as much flour
as will form it into a paste, with spice and eggs; roll it out, cut
it into two small cakes, and bake. A piece of candied orange or
lemon-peel may be put on the top of each cake.
* * * * *
LITTLE SHORT CAKES.
Rub into a pound of flour four ounces of butter, four ounces of white
powdered sugar, and two eggs; make it into a paste, roll it thin, and
cut into small cakes with tin cutters. A little orange flower-water or
sweet wine improve the flavour of these cakes.
* * * * *
MATSO CAKES.
Make a stiff paste with biscuit powder and milk and water; add a
little butter, the yolk of an egg, and a little white sugar; cut into
pieces, and mould with the hand, and bake in a brisk oven. These cakes
should not be too thin.
* * * * *
ANOTHER SORT.
Warm a quarter of a pint of water flavoured with a little salt, in
which mix four beaten eggs; then mix half a pound of matso flour, and
a couple of lumps of white sugar, and half a teacup of milk; mix all
well together, and bake in a tin.
* * * * *
FRIED MATSOS.
Soak some of the thickest matsos in milk, taking care they do not
break; then fry in boiling fresh butter. This is a very nice method of
preparing them for breakfast or tea.
* * * * *
MATSO DIET BREAD.
Simmer one pound of white sugar in a quarter of a pint of water, which
pour hot upon eight well-beaten eggs; beat till cold, when add one
pound of matso flour, a little grated lemon-peel, and bake in a
papered tin, or in small tins; the cake must be removed while hot.
* * * * *
A CAKE WITHOUT BUTTER.
Beat well five eggs, to which add six ounces of flour; flavour with
beaten almonds, and add, if liked, thin slices of citron; bake in a
mould in a moderate oven.
* * * * *
SPONGE CAKES.
Mix six eggs, half the whites, half a pound of lump sugar, half a
pound of flour, and a quarter of a pint of water, which should be
strongly flavoured by lemon peel having been in it for some hours;
the sugar and water should boil up together, and poured over the eggs
after they have been well whisked, which must be continued while the
liquid is being poured over them, and until they become quite thick
and white, then stir in the flour, which must be warm and dry. Pour
the mixture into a couple of cake tins, and bake in a gentle oven.
* * * * *
A NICE BREAKFAST CAKE.
Make a paste of half a pound of flour, one ounce of butter, a very
little salt, two eggs, and a table-spoonful of milk, roll it out, but
first set it to rise before the fire; cut it into cakes the size of
small cheese plates, sprinkle with flour, and bake on a tin in a brisk
oven, or they may be fried in a clean frying pan; they should be cut
in half, buttered hot, and served quickly.
* * * * *
ICING FOR CAKES.
Whisk half a pound of sifted white sugar, with one wine glass of
orange flower-water, and the whites of two eggs, well beaten and
strained; it must be whisked until it is quite thick and white; and
when the cake is almost cold, dip a soft camel's hair brush into it,
and cover the cake well, and set it in a cool oven to harden.
* * * * *
TO CLARIFY SUGAR.
Take the proportion of one pound of sugar to half a pint of water,
with the whites of a couple of eggs; boil it up twice, then set it by
for the impurities to rise to the top, and skim it carefully.
CHAPTER VIII.
Preserving and Bottling.
Attention and a little practice will ensure excellence in such
preserves as are in general use in private families; and it will
always be found a more economical plan to purchase the more rare and
uncommon articles of preserved fruits than to have them made at home.
The more sugar that is added to fruit the less boiling it requires.
If jellies be over-boiled, much of the sugar will become candied, and
leave the jelly thin.
Every thing used for the purpose of preserving should be clean and
very dry, particularly bottles for bottled fruit.
Fruit should boil rapidly _before_ the sugar is added, and quietly
afterwards--when preserves seem likely to become mouldy, it is
generally a sign they have not been sufficiently boiled, and it will
be requisite to boil them up again--fruit for bottling should not be
too ripe, and should be perfectly fresh; there are various methods
adopted by different cooks: the fruit may be placed in the bottles,
and set in a moderate oven until considerably shrunken, when the
bottles should be removed and closely corked; or the bottles may be
set in a pan with cold water up to the necks, placed over the fire;
when the fruit begins to sink remove them, and when cold fill up each
bottle with cold spring water, cork the bottles, and lay them on their
sides in a dry place.
To bottle red currants--pick them carefully from the stalk, and add,
as the currants are put in, sifted white sugar; let the bottles
be well filled and rosin the corks, and keep them with their necks
downwards.
* * * * *
BRANDIED CHERRIES.
Put into a large wide mouthed bottle very ripe black cherries, add to
them two pounds of loaf sugar, a quart of brandy, and a few cloves,
then bruise a few more cherries, and simmer with sugar, strain and add
the juice to the cherries in the bottle, cork closely, and keep in a
warm dry place.
* * * * *
QUINCE MARMALADE.
Peel, cut into quarters, and core two pounds of sharp apples, and the
same quantity of quinces; put them into a jar, with one pound of white
sugar powdered and sprinkled over them; cover them with half a pint
of water, and put in also a little bruised cochineal tied in a muslin.
Set them in a slack oven till tender, take out the cochineal, and pulp
the fruit to a marmalade.
Some cooks prefer boiling the sugar and water first and scalding the
fruit till tender, and then adding them to the syrup.
* * * * *
DAMSON MARMALADE.
Is made in the same manner as quince, as also apricot marmalade, which
is very fine; the fruit must be stoned, and some of the kernels put in
with the fruit, which are peeled, and apricots are cut in pieces; they
should be carefully pulped through a clean sieve.
* * * * *
PRESERVED APRICOTS.
Halve and pare ripe apricots, or if not quite ripe, boil them till the
skin can easily be removed. Lay them in a dish hollow downwards,
sift over them their own weight of white sugar, let them lay for some
hours, then put the fruit, with the sugar and juice into a preserving
pan, and simmer till the fruit is clear, take it out, put it carefully
into pots, and pour over the syrup.
This receipt will serve as a guide for preserved nectarines, peaches,
plums, gages, &c. A few of the kernels should always be put in with
the fruit, as they improve the flavor of the preserve.
* * * * *
STRAWBERRIES PRESERVED WHOLE.
Weigh an equal quantity of fruit and white sugar powdered, sift all
the sugar over the fruit, so that half of it shall equally be covered,
let it lay till the next day, when boil the remainder with red currant
juice, in which simmer the strawberries until the jelly hangs about
them. Put the strawberries into pots, taking care not to break them,
and pour over the syrup.
This receipt will serve for raspberries and cherries, which make a
fine preserve.
* * * * *
STRAWBERRY JAM.
Bruise gently, with the back of a wooden spoon, six pounds of fine
fresh fruit, and boil them with very little water for twenty minutes,
stirring until the fruit and juice are well mixed; then put in
powdered loaf sugar of equal weight to the fruit, and simmer half an
hour longer. If the preserve is not required to be very rich, half the
weight of sugar in proportion to the quantity of fruit may be used;
but more boiling will be requisite. By this recipe also are made
raspberry, currant, gooseberry, apricot, and other jams.
* * * * *
RED CURRANT JELLY.
Strip carefully from the stems some quite ripe currants, put them into
a preserving pan, stir them gently over a clear fire until the juice
flows freely from them, then squeeze the currants and strain the juice
through a folded muslin or jelly bag; pour it into a preserving pan,
adding, as it boils, white sugar, in the proportion of one pound of
sugar to one pint of juice.
If made with less sugar, more boiling will be required, by which much
juice and flavour are lost. A little dissolved isinglass is used by
confectioners, but it is much better without. Jams and jellies should
be poured into pots when in a boiling state.
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