Notes of an Overland Journey Through France and Egypt to Bombay by Miss Emma Roberts

M >> Miss Emma Roberts >> Notes of an Overland Journey Through France and Egypt to Bombay

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The present Resident is a strenuous advocate for the abolition of all
duties, at least for a time; and should the representations made
by him, and other persons well acquainted with the character and
resources of the surrounding countries, succeed in inducing the
Government of India to render Aden a free port, it would soon become
the queen of the adjacent seas. The town of Senna is only at the
distance of seven or eight days' journey for camels and merchandize.
The coffee districts are actually nearer to it than to Mocha, and
the road equally safe and convenient; other large towns in Yemen
are within an easy journey, and the rich and populous places in the
province of Hydramut are open for its trade.

The mountains to the north of Aden produce gums, frankincense, and
coffee, which would soon find their way to so promising a market. Its
harbour being immediately to the north of Barbar, vessels during the
north-eastern monsoon would reach it with the produce of Africa in
twenty-four hours, returning with British and Indian produce in the
same time. All the exports of Hanall, and other large interior towns
on the opposite coast, consisting of coffee, gums, myrrh, hides,
elephants' teeth, gold dust, ostrich feathers, &c, would be conveyed
to Aden, to be exchanged for piece goods, chintzes, cutlery, and rice;
all of which would find a ready market. The manufactures of India
and of Great Britain would thus be very extensively introduced, there
being good reason to believe that they would be largely purchased in
the provinces of Yemen and Hydramut.

Amongst the great advantages which Aden possesses over Mocha, is the
situation of its harbour, which may be entered by a ship or boat at
any period of the year, and quitted with the same facility: whereas
its rival port is so difficult of access in the months of March,
April, and May, that boats are sometimes six, seven, or eight days
getting to the straits, a distance of forty miles only. These are
considerations worthy of the attention of merchants, the length of the
voyage not being the sole source of annoyance, since vessels taking
cargoes at Aden save the great wear and tear occasioned in their
return down the Red Sea.

Perhaps, considering the difficulty of conciliating the semi-barbarous
tribes in the neighbourhood, the trade and population of Aden have
increased as much as we could reasonably hope; but when peace shall at
length be established, it will doubtless attract merchants and Banians
from Surat, as well as all other adjacent places. If at this moment
our expectations have not been completely answered, we have at least
the satisfaction of knowing that, besides having saved the Red Sea
from the encroachments of the Pasha of Egypt, we have anticipated
a rival power, which has already derived greater advantage from our
supineness, with regard to our Eastern possessions, than is desirable.

The Americans, during 1833-4-5, had a small squadron looking all about
for a spot which they could turn to good account. Socotra, from its
convenient position between Africa and Arabia, proved a point of
attraction, and had not Capt. Haines, of the Indian Navy, promptly
taken possession, in the name of Great Britain, they would in all
probability have succeeded in effecting a settlement. With their usual
attention to the interests of their commerce, the Americans have a
resident permanently stationed at Zanzibar, and have made advantageous
arrangements with the Imaum of Muscat, whereby the trade with the
United States has greatly increased; American ships are constantly
arriving, with piece-goods, glass-ware, &c, and returning with
profitable cargoes, the produce of Africa.

The inhabitants of Aden appear to be a peaceable race, generally well
affected to the government, from which they cannot fail to derive
advantage. The Jews, as I have before mentioned, are the most
important, both in consequence of their number and of their superior
wealth; they belong to the tribe of Judah, and are very industrious,
being the manufacturers of the place.

It is by the Jews and their families, the females assisting, that a
coarse kind of cloth, employed for their own garments, and also sold
to strangers, is spun and woven. This cloth is in much esteem
amongst the Arabs: when prepared for them, it is dyed blue, sometimes
ornamented with red borders, indigo being employed, together with
extracts from other plants. The women generally wear a single loose
garment, covering the head with a handkerchief when they leave the
house; they do not, however, conceal their faces. Previous to the
occupation of Aden, the Jewesses were remarkable for the propriety of
their manners, but as they are esteemed handsome, and moreover attract
by their good temper and intelligence, it is to be feared that they
will meet with many temptations to depart from the decorum they have
hitherto maintained. Like their sex and peculiar race, they are
fond of ornaments, adorning themselves with large silver ear-rings,
bracelets, necklaces, and armlets. Hitherto, whatever wealth they
possessed, they were obliged to conceal, the Arabs proving very severe
and oppressive masters; their prospects are now brightening, and they
have already shown a disposition to profit by the new order of things,
having opened shops in the bazaar, and commenced trading in a way they
never ventured upon before.

Nor is it in spinning and weaving alone that the Jews of Aden excel;
artizans in silver and copper are to be found amongst them, together
with stone-cutters, and other handicrafts-men. They have a school for
the education of their male youth, the females not having yet enjoyed
this advantage, in consequence of the intolerance of the Arabs, who
view with prejudiced eyes every attempt to emancipate women from the
condition to which they have been so long reduced.

The means of instruction possessed by the Jews of Aden are not very
extensive, a few printed Bibles and MS. extracts forming the whole
of their literature. It has been thought that missionaries would here
find a fair field for their exertions; but, unfortunately, the most
promising places in the East are, by some mistake, either of ignorance
or ambition, left wholly destitute of Christian teachers. While the
pledges of Government are compromised in India, and its stability
threatened, by the daring attempts to make converts at the
presidencies, and other considerable places, where success is
attended with great noise and clamour, many portions of the Company's
territories, in which much quiet good might be effected, are left
entirely without religious aid.

The Banians, though small in number, rank next to the Jews in
importance, and are, perhaps, more wealthy; they are not, however,
so completely identified with the soil, for they do not bring their
families with them when emigrating to Aden from the places of their
birth. The greater number come from Cutch, arriving at an early period
of life, and with the craft that usually distinguishes them, studying
the character of the Arabs, and making the most of it. They are not
esteemed such good subjects to the new government as the Jews, their
expectations of benefit from a change of masters, in consequence of
their having proved the chief gainers heretofore, being less sanguine.

The Soomalees are natives of Barbora, and are in number about two
hundred. They employ themselves in making baskets, mats, and fans,
from the leaves of a species of palm-tree; they are not so active and
industrious as the Jews, but the younger portion, if brought up in
European families, might, with the advantage of good tuition, become
useful as servants and labourers. They are Mohamedans, but not very
strict, either in their religious or moral principles, violating oaths
sworn upon the _Koran_, and cheating and thieving whenever they can.
The love of money, however, is a strong stimulus to improvement, and
where it exists, or can be created, the case is far more hopeful than
when the wants and desires are both limited. The Soomalee women are
reckoned handsome, though in that respect they cannot compare with the
Jewesses, their complexions being much darker and their hair coarse;
they have tall, well-proportioned figures, and are as attentive to
their dress and appearance as their poverty will admit. The Arabs are
the least prepossessing of all the inhabitants of Aden, and it will
be long before any confidence can be placed in them. They religiously
conceal their women, and are a bigoted, prejudiced race, disaffected
of course to the new government, and shy of intercourse with the
British occupants.

That the hopes entertained of the prosperity of Aden have not been
more speedily realized, may be attributed to the prevalent belief that
its new masters could not maintain their ground against the hostile
Arabs of the neighbourhood. It is the opinion of a competent judge,
that, "as soon as the inhabitants of distant countries feel convinced
that our occupation of Aden is intended to be a _permanent_, and not a
temporary measure, they will establish agencies there under our flag,
in preference to any other, and open an extensive traffic." The same
authority states that "it is the opinion of the Banians and Arabs,
that Aden _will regain_ her former commercial renown."

With respect to the goods at present in requisition, or likely to meet
a sale, at Aden, we learn from the report above quoted, that "of the
manufactures of Europe, coloured handkerchiefs and hardware are
only in demand, though longcloths are procurable and are sometimes
purchased by the Arabs; but these articles are priced so high, as to
prevent any great consumption of them. From what I observed of the
Arab disposition and taste, I certainly believe that coloured cotton
goods of _fast_ colours, and of patterns similar to those elsewhere
specified, if offered at rates somewhat reasonable, would in a very
short period meet with an extensive sale, and be rapidly introduced
into common use amongst the Arabs of the interior. The novelty of the
experiment would at first induce the Arabs to become purchasers, when,
finding the articles _good_, it is but reasonable to anticipate an
extensive demand. The colours should be particularly attended to, for
the certainty of obtaining goods of _fast colours_ would alone ensure
the articles in question a speedy sale. The handkerchiefs that have
already been introduced into Aden are of the worst sort relative
to colour, generally becoming after two or three washings white, or
nearly so; thus it cannot be wondered at if these goods meet with but
a poor demand."

The ravages committed by the army of the Pasha of Egypt, in the
fertile districts of the neighbourhood of Aden, have been prejudicial
to the interests of the new settlement, and perhaps so long as the
hope of plunder can be entertained by the petty princes, who rule
the adjacent districts, they will be unwilling to wait for the
slower advantages derivable from commerce. The apparently reckless
expenditure of the British residents, and the princely pay given to
the soldiers of the garrison, have offered so dazzling a prospect
of gain, that they (the native chiefs) will have some difficulty in
abandoning the hope of making themselves masters, at a single blow, of
all the treasure brought to their shores. It is said that some Turks,
deserters from Mehemet Ali, who took refuge in Aden, upon being made
acquainted with the amount of pay given to the British troops, and the
regularity with which it was issued, exclaimed, "God is great, and the
English are immortal!"

During the proper seasons, Aden is well supplied with fruit; its trade
in honey and wax might become very important, the adjacent countries
yielding abundance of both, and of so fine a quality, as to compete
with the produce of the hives of the Mediterranean. Drugs are
procurable in equal abundance, together with perfumes and spices. The
European inhabitants are, of course, compelled to send to Bombay
for those luxuries which habit has rendered necessary; the constant
communication with the presidency renders them easily procurable,
while the intercourse with India and England, by means of the
steamers, relieves the monotony which would otherwise be severely
felt.

I could have spent two or three days with great pleasure at Aden,
inquiring into its early history, present condition, and future
prospects, and regretted much when a summons reached me to depart. We
entertained a hope that the steamer would come round and take us off
at the northern point; however, we were obliged to return the way we
came. There are, and have been since its occupation, several English
ladies living at Aden, but whether they have not shown themselves
sufficiently often to render their appearance familiar, or the
curiosity of the people is not easily satisfied, I cannot say; but I
found myself an object of great attention to the women and children.

The sun having declined, the whole of the population of Aden seemed to
be abroad, and many well-dressed and good-looking women were seated on
the rude steps and broken walls of the stone houses before-mentioned.
As they saw me smiling upon them, they drew nearer, salaamed, and
laughed in return, and appeared to examine my dress as closely as
the open doors of the palanquin would permit. Some of the very little
children turned away in horror from a white face, but the greater
number seemed much pleased with the notice taken of them. While
waiting a few minutes for my party, my bearers wanted to drive them
away, but this I would not permit, and we carried on a very amicable
intercourse by signs, both being apparently mutually delighted
with each other. Their vivacity and good-humour made a favourable
impression upon my mind, and I should like to have an opportunity
of becoming better acquainted with them, feeling strongly tempted to
proceed to Aden on my return to England in a sailing vessel, and await
there the arrival of a steamer to convey me up the Red Sea to Cosseir
or to Suez.

I was offered a present of a milch-goat at Aden, but not being able to
consult with the captain of the _Berenice_ concerning its introduction
on board, I did not like to allow the poor creature to run any risk
of neglect. Its productiveness would soon have diminished on board a
steamer, and it was so useful in a place like Aden, that I could not
feel justified in taking it away for my own gratification. I obtained,
however, a bottle of milk, and when I got on board, having dined
early, and being moreover exhausted with my journey, as I was only
recovering from an attack of fever, I wished to have some tea. This
was too great an indulgence to be granted by the petty authorities
who ruled over the passengers. Unfortunately, upon leaving Suez, I
had given away all my tea to my servant, Mohammed, who was fond of it,
nothing doubting that I should be able to procure as much as I pleased
on board the steamer. The refusal was the more provoking, as there was
plenty of boiling water ready, and I had humbly limited my request to
a spoonful of tea. Under the circumstances, I was obliged to content
myself with milk and water: had the captain or the surgeon of the
vessel been at hand, I should doubtless have been supplied with every
thing I wanted, but in their absence, it was impossible to procure a
single article. Upon one occasion, while tea was serving, a passenger
in the saloon asked for a cup, and was told to go upon deck for it.

I also procured a supply of soda water at Aden. I had suffered much
from the want of this refreshing beverage during my fever, the supply
taken on board having been exhausted on the voyage up. The passengers
down the Red Sea have the disadvantage of sailing with exhausted
stores. It seems hardly fair to them, especially in cases of illness,
that the whole of any particular article should be given to the people
who embark at Bombay, they having a right to expect that, as they pay
the same price, a portion should be reserved for their use.

On the second day after our departure from Aden--that is, the 22nd
of October--we arrived at Makallah. It was mid-day before the vessel
ceased to ply her engines, and though invited to go on shore, as
we could not penetrate beyond the walls of the town, we thought it
useless to exchange our cabins for a hot room in the mansion of its
ruler. The town of Makallah, which forms the principal commercial
depot of the south-west of Arabia, is built upon a rocky platform of
some length, but of very inconsiderable width, backed by a perfect
wall of cliffs, and bounded in front by the sea. It seems tolerably
well built for an Arabian town, many of the houses being of a very
respectable appearance, two or more stories in height, and ornamented
with small turrets and cupolas: the nakib, or governor's residence, is
large, with a high square tower, which gives it the air of a citadel.

There is not a tree or shrub to be seen, the absence of vegetation
investing the place with a character of its own, and one that
harmonizes with the bold and bare rocks which bound the coast on
either side. We were told that, between two ranges of hills close to
the entrance of the town, a beautiful green valley occurred, watered
by delicious springs, and shaded by date-trees. Had we arrived at
an early period of the morning, we might have spent the day on this
delightful place, proceeding to it on the backs of camels or donkeys,
or even on foot; but it being impossible to get thither while the
sun was in full power, we were obliged to content ourselves with a
description of its beauties.

Although a very good understanding exists between our Government and
that of Makallah, which has for some time been a depot of coal for the
use of the steamers, it is not advisable for visitors to proceed very
far from the town without protection. A midshipman belonging to the
Indian navy having gone on shore for the purpose of visiting the
valley before-mentioned, and straying away to some distance, attracted
by the beauty of the scenery, was suddenly surrounded by a party of
Bedouins, who robbed him of all he possessed, cutting off the buttons
from his clothes, under the idea that they were of gold--an impression
which obtains all over the coast, and which inspired the people who
made the last assault upon Aden with the hope of a rich booty.

The population of Makallah is estimated at about 4,600 people, of
various tribes and countries, the chief portion being either of the
Beni Hassan and Yafai tribes, together with Banians, Kurachies, and
emigrants from nearly all parts of the adjacent coasts. It carries
on rather a considerable trade in gums, hides, and drugs, which, with
coffee, form the exports, receiving in return iron, lead, manufactured
cloths, earthenware, and rice, from Bombay, and all the productions of
the neighbouring countries, slaves included, in which the traffic is
said to be very great.

The gentlemen who went on shore purchased very pretty and convenient
baskets, wrought in various colours, and also quantities of
sweetmeats, which are much in esteem in India; these are composed of
honey and flour, delicately made, the honey being converted into a
soft kind of paste, with a coating of the flour on the outside.
These sweetmeats were nicely packed in straw baskets, of a different
manufacture from those before-mentioned, and were very superior to
the common sort which is brought from the coast in small coarse
earthenware basins, exceedingly unattractive in their appearance.

The interior of the country is said to be very beautiful, abundantly
watered by refreshing springs, and shaded by groves of date-trees.
Amongst its animal productions, the most beautiful is the gazelle,
which, properly speaking, is only to be found in Arabia; a delicate
and lovely creature, with the soft black eye which has been from time
immemorial the theme of poets. The gazelle is easily tamed, becoming
in a short time very familiar, and being much more gentle, as well as
more graceful, than the common antelope. Its movements are the most
airy and elegant imaginable. It is fond of describing a circle in
a succession of bounds, jumping off the ground on four legs, and
touching it lightly as it wheels round and round. At other times, it
pirouettes upon the two fore feet, springing round at the same time
like an opera-dancer; in fact, it would appear as if Taglioni, and all
our most celebrated _artistes_, had taken lessons from the gazelle,
so much do their _chefs-d'oeuvre_ resemble its graceful motions.
When domesticated, the gazelle loves to feed upon roses, delighting
apparently in the scent as well as the taste. It is the fashion in the
East to add perfume to the violet, and I found these gazelles would
eat with much zest roses that had been plentifully sprinkled with
their extract, the _goolabee paanee_, so greatly in request. The
gazelle is also very fond of crisply-toasted bread, a taste which must
be acquired in domestication. It is a courageous animal, and will come
readily to the assault, butting fiercely when attacked. In taking a
gazelle away from Arabia, it should be carefully guarded against cold
and damp, and if not provided with water-proof covering to its feet,
would soon die if exposed to the wet decks of a ship.

We had lost at Aden our fellow-passenger, whom I have mentioned as
having assumed the Turkish dress for the purpose of penetrating
into the interior of Abyssinia. He depended, in a great measure, for
comfort and safety, upon two native priests, whom he had brought with
him from Cairo, and who, in return for his liberality, had promised
all the protection and assistance in their power. He left us with
the good wishes of all the party, and not without some fears in the
breasts of those who contemplated the hazards which he ran. Young and
good-looking, he had, with pardonable, but perhaps dangerous, vanity,
studied the becoming in his costume, which was composed of the very
finest materials. His long outer garment, of a delicate woollen
texture, was lined throughout with silk, and the crimson cap, which
he wore upon his head, was converted into a turban by a piece of gold
muslin wound round it. He expected nothing less than to be plundered
and stripped of this fine apparel, and it will be well for him should
he escape with life. The adventure and the romance of the undertaking
possessed great charms, and he talked, after spending some years in
a wild and wandering career, of sitting down quietly in his paternal
halls, introducing as many of the Egyptian customs as would be
tolerated in a Christian country.

A short residence in Cairo proves very captivating to many Englishmen;
they like the independent sort of life which they lead; their perfect
freedom from all the thralls imposed by society at home, and, when
tired of dreaming away existence after the indolent fashion of
the East, plunge into the surrounding deserts, and enjoy all the
excitement attendant upon danger. Numerous anecdotes were related to
me of the hardships sustained by young English travellers, who, led by
the spirit of adventure, had trusted themselves to the Bedouins, and,
though escaping with life, had suffered very severely from hunger,
thirst, and fatigue. I have no reason to doubt the veracity of one of
these enterprising tourists, who assured me that he had passed through
the holy city of Mecca. According to his account, he had made friends
with an Arab boy, who offered to afford him a glimpse of the city,
provided he would consent to pass rapidly through it, at an early hour
in the morning. Accordingly, disguised in Mohamedan garb, and mounted
upon a camel, they entered and quitted it at opposite ends, without
exciting curiosity or remark. Of course, he could see nothing but the
exterior of the houses and mosques, only obtaining a partial view of
these; but, considering the difficulty and peril of the undertaking,
the pleasure of being able to say that he had succeeded in an
achievement which few would be daring enough to attempt, was worth
running some risks.

Notwithstanding the intolerant spirit generally manifested by the
Arabs, those English strangers who embrace their way of life for a
time frequently attach them very strongly to their persons, obtaining
concessions from them which could scarcely be expected from a
people so bigoted in their religious opinions, and entertaining so
contemptible an opinion of those who are followers of other creeds. In
spite of the faults of his character--for he is frequently deceitful,
treacherous, cruel, and covetous--the Arab of the desert is usually
much respected by the dwellers in towns. His independent spirit
is admired by those who could not exist without the comforts and
conveniences of life, which he disdains. It is no uncommon sight,
either at Cairo or Alexandria, to see a handsome young Bedouin,
splendidly attired, lodging in the open street by the side of his
camel, for nothing will persuade him to sleep in a house; he
carries the habits of the desert into the city, and in the midst of
congregated thousands, dwells apart.

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