Recollections of Calcutta for over Half a Century by Montague Massey
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Montague Massey >> Recollections of Calcutta for over Half a Century
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For the benefit of the Red Cross Fund
Recollections of Calcutta for over half a century
By MONTAGUE MASSEY
WITH ILLUSTRATIONS
CALCUTTA
1918
DEDICATED
TO
THE LADY CARMICHAEL
THE FOUNDER OF THE BENGAL WOMEN'S WAR FUND
INTRODUCTION.
I think it would be advisable for me to state at the outset that these
reminiscences are entirely devoid of sensational elements, in order to
prevent any possible disappointment and remove from the minds of
those, and I know several, who have conceived the idea that I am about
to disclose matters that, as far as I am concerned, must for ever lie
buried in the past. There are certain startling incidents still fresh
in my memory that I could relate, but they would be out of place in a
work of this nature. A considerable amount of the subject-matter
contained herein is devoted to a descriptive account of the wonderful
transformation that has overtaken the city since my first arrival in
the sixties, and to the many and varied structural improvements and
additions that have been, and are still being, made in streets and
buildings, both public and private. The origin and conception of this
little work is due to the inspiration of my friend Walter Exley of the
_Statesman_ staff. I had often before been approached by friends and
others on the subject of writing and publishing what I could tell of
Calcutta of the olden days, but I had always felt some diffidence in
doing so partly because I thought it might not prove sufficiently
interesting. But when Mr. Exley appeared on the scene last July,
introduced to me by a mutual friend, matters seemed somehow to assume
a different aspect. In the first place I felt that I was talking to a
man of considerable knowledge and experience in journalistic affairs,
and one whose opinion was worth listening to, and it was in
consequence of what he told me that for the first time I seriously
contemplated putting into effect what I had so frequently hesitated to
do in the past. He assured me I was mistaken in the view I had held,
and that what I could relate would make attractive reading to the
present generation of Europeans, not only in the city, but also in the
mofussil. I finally yielded to persuasion, and throwing back my memory
over the years tried to conjure up visions of Calcutta of the past. A
good deal in the earlier part refers to a period which few, if any,
Europeans at present in this country know of except through the medium
of books. The three articles published in the columns of the
_Statesman_ of the 22nd and 29th July and 5th August were the first
outcome of our conversation. I then left Calcutta for a tour
up-country as stated on page 28, and the work was temporarily
suspended. It was not until the early part of September, when I had
settled down for a season at Naini Tal, that I resumed the threads of
my narrative. It was at first my intention to continue publishing a
series of short articles in the columns of the _Statesman_, but as I
proceeded it gradually dawned upon my mind that I could achieve a
twofold object by compiling my recollections in book form in aid of
the Red Cross Fund. Whether it was due to this new and additional
incentive which may perhaps have had the effect of stimulating my
mental powers I know not, but as I continued to write on, scenes and
events long since forgotten seemed gradually to well up out of the dim
and far distant past and visualize on the tablets of my memory. I was
thus enabled to extend and develop the scope of the work beyond the
limit I had originally contemplated. My one and ardent hope now is
that the book may prove a financial success for the benefit of the
funds of the Society on whose behalf it is published. That some who
perhaps might not care to take a copy simply for its own sake will not
hesitate to do so and thus assist by his or her own personal action in
however small a degree in carrying on the good and noble work which
must awaken in our hearts all the best and finest instincts of our
nature, as well as our warmest and deepest sympathies.
I have to express my great thanks to Lady Carmichael for her kindness
and courtesy in having graciously accorded me permission to dedicate
the work to her on behalf of the Red Cross Fund.
My thanks are also due to my friend P. Tennyson Cole, the eminent
portrait painter, who did me the honour of painting my portrait for
the book at considerable sacrifice of his very valuable time.
Unfortunately, however, it was found impossible to make use of the
portrait, as the time at our disposal was too short to permit of its
reproduction.
I am deeply indebted to the Honourable Maharajadhiraj Bahadur of
Burdwan who kindly placed at my disposal a collection of priceless and
invaluable old views of Calcutta which are now quite unobtainable and
for having had copies printed off from the negatives and for granting
me permission to reproduce them in my book.
I have also to thank my friend Harold Sudlow for designing the sketch
on the outer covering, which I think considerably enhances the
appearance of the book. I must further acknowledge my indebtedness to
Mr. J. Zorab, Superintending Engineer, Presidency Circle, P.W.D., who
refreshed my memory as to certain details in the alteration of some of
the public buildings, while furnishing me with information as to some
others, with which I had not been previously acquainted. Last of all,
though by no means the least, my special thanks are due to my friend
C.F. Hooper, of Thacker, Spink & Co., who has rendered me invaluable
assistance in the compilation of the book, and without whom many more
defects would have been apparent. I shall for ever appreciate the
valuable time he expended and the amount of trouble he took, which I
know he could ill afford owing to the very busy life he leads.
BENGAL CLUB:
_April,_ 1918. M.M.
CONTENTS
PART I. PERSONAL
PART II. TOPOGRAPHICAL
PART III. STREET AND GENERAL STRUCTURAL IMPROVEMENTS
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
MONTAGUE MASSEY
Government House, North aspect
Government House, South aspect
Old view of Esplanade, East, showing Scott Thomson's Corner
Old River View, showing sailing ships
Royal Calcutta Turf Club's Race Stands, Viceroy's Cup Day
The Old Race Stand
Distant view of Race Stands
Belvedere
The Medical College Hospital
Scene in Eden Gardens
Present-day view of Eden Gardens
Eden Gardens
The Banyan Tree, Royal Botanical Garden, Seebpur
Palm Avenue in Botanical Gardens
St. Paul's Cathedral
Interior of St. Paul's Cathedral, showing eastern half
The Burning Ghat, Nimtollah
View of the River Hooghly, with shipping from Fort William
A Street in Burra Bazaar
Chitpore Road
Remains of St. James's Theatre, Circular Road
Remains of Col. Turner's House, 2, Wood Street
The "Govindpur" on her Beam Ends
Some Effects of the Cyclone at Garden Reach
S.S. "Thunder" on shore, at Colvin Ghat
Old view of Government House, showing Scott Thomson's Corner
Present view of Government House, showing Esplanade Mansions
Old view of Government Place, East, and Old Court House Street
Ball Room, Government House, Calcutta
Throne Room, Government House, Calcutta
Old view of Government Place, East, showing Gates of Government House
Present-day view of Government Place, East, and Old Court House Street
Howrah Bridge, from the Calcutta side
View of Harrison Road from Howrah Bridge
Old view of Bank of Bengal
Present view of Bank of Bengal
Frontage of Writers' Buildings from East to West
Distant view of Writers' Buildings, taken before the Dalhousie
Institute was built
Town Hall, Calcutta
Site of Black Hole of Calcutta
Old Court House Street, looking south
Government Place, East, at the present day
Bathgate & Co.'s premises, Old Court House Street
Grosvenor House
Old premises of Francis, Harrison, Hathaway & Co., Government Place,
East
New premises of Francis, Harrison, Hathaway & Co., Government Place,
East
Pehti's premises, Government Place, East
Dalhousie Square, looking north-east, showing tank
Old premises of Ranken & Co.
Present premises of Ranken & Co.
High Court, erected 1872
Small Cause Court
Treasury and Imperial Secretariat Building, at the present time
Department of Commerce and Industry, Council House Street, built on
site of Old Foreign Office
Foreign and Military Secretariat, built on the site of the "Belatee
Bungalow"
Dalhousie Square, showing Post Office and Writers' Buildings
Old view of the Great Eastern Hotel
Present view of the Great Eastern Hotel
The old Royal Exchange
The new Royal Exchange
The Exchange--Mackenzie Lyall's premises from 1888 to 1918
The Exchange--Mackenzie Lyall's old premises in Dalhousie Square
The Imperial Museum
Municipal Offices, at the present day
Prinsep's Ghat from the land side
Mullick's Bathing Ghat, Strand Road
Currency Office, built on the site of the old Calcutta Auction Company
Hamilton & Co.'s premises, Old Court House Street
Old view of Clive Street
Present view of Clive Street, showing Chartered Bank's premises on the
right middle centre.
12, Dalhousie Square, East, showing West End Watch Co.'s premises
Smith, Stanistreet & Co.'s premises, Dalhousie Square, East
McLeod & Co.'s new premises, Dalhousie Square, West
Alliance Bank of Simla
Building erected by Martin & Co. containing these offices
Writers' Buildings and Holwell Monument
Esplanade East, showing tank now filled in
Old view of Esplanade, East, showing Dharamtala Tank
The Sir Stuart Hogg Market
Chowringhee, showing Tanks opposite Lindsay Street and Bengal Club
Modern view of Esplanade, East, showing Tramway Junction and Shelter
View of Tramway Company's Esplanade Junction before shelter was built
Grand Hotel
The five houses in Chowringhee that formed the nucleus of the Grand
Hotel
W. Leslie & Co.'s premises, Chowringhee
W. Leslie & Co.'s premises, Chowringhee
Esplanade Mansions, built by Mr. Ezra on the site of Scott Thomson's
Corner
Thacker, Spink & Co.'s new premises, completed in 1916
Walter Locke & Co.'s premises, Esplanade, East
Mackintosh Burn & Co. and Morrison and Cottle's premises, Esplanade,
East
Bristol Hotel, Chowringhee
Corporation Street, showing Hindustan Buildings--Proprietors,
Hindustan Co-operative Insurance Society, Ld.
Old site of the present Continental Hotel, Chowringhee
Hotel Continental, Chowringhee
The Old United Service Club
Present-day view of United Service Club
Park House, Park Street, William Heath's Premises
The "Haunted" House, corner of Sudder Street, Chowringhee
G.F. Kellner & Co.'s premises in Chowringhee.
Army and Navy Stores, Chowringhee
Chowringhee Mansions, built on the site of Old United Service Club
Hall & Anderson's premises, at the corner of Park Street
Old Bengal Club
New Bengal Club
Bishop's Palace, Chowringhee
[Illustration: _Photo. by Calcutta Phototype Co_ Old view of
Government House, North aspect]
[Illustration: Old view of Government House, South aspect _Photo by
Johnston & Hoffmann_]
RECOLLECTIONS OF OLD CALCUTTA
PART I.
Personal.
When I first came to Calcutta things were entirely different to the
present day. There was, of course, a very much smaller European
population, and every one was consequently pretty well known to every
one else, but at the same time the cleavage between the different
sections of society was much more marked than it is now. Members of
the Civil Service were very exclusive, holding themselves much more
aloof than the "heaven-born" do to-day; the military formed another
distinct set; while the mercantile people, lawyers, barristers, and
others not in any government service, had their own particular circle.
This marked cleavage did not, however, prevent the different "sets"
from having quite a good time, and as I have said, even if they did
not mix together very closely and intimately, we all in a way knew
each other.
Forty or fifty years ago, Calcutta was not so lively as it is to-day,
especially in the cold weather, but there was one thing in those days
which we do not see now. I refer to the regal pomp and circumstance
which characterised Government House, and all the functions held
there. The annual State Ball was an event which was always looked
forward to, and it was a ball at which one could comfortably dance,
instead of the crush it had become in the decade prior to 1911.
THE "PALKI."
Looking back, one of the first things that strikes me is the change
between then and now in the matter of locomotion. In my early days
there were no taxi-cabs, trams, nor even _fitton-gharries,_ the only
conveyances for those who had not private carriages being _palkis_ and
_bund-gharries._ It would seem strange to-day to see Europeans being
carried about the streets in _palkis_, but half a century or more ago
they were by no means despised, especially by the newly-out _chokras_,
whose salary was not at all too high. They had to choose between a
_palki_ and a _ticca-gharry,_ which were very much alike in shape, the
difference between them being that the one was carried on the
shoulders of coolies, and the other drawn by a horse.
[Illustration: Old view of Esplanade East, showing Scott Thomson's
corner. _Photo by Johnston & Hoffman_]
[Illustration: Old River view, showing sailing ships _Photo by
Johnston & Hoffmann_.]
[Illustration: _Photo by Johnston & Hoffmann_ Royal Calcutta Turf
Club's Race Stands: Viceroy's Cup Day.]
[Illustration: The Old Race Stands _Photo. by Johnston & Hoffmann._]
The private conveyances of those days were as a rule quite elaborate
affairs, and it used to be one of the sights of the evening to go on
"the course," which embraced the Strand and the Red Road, to see the
richer inhabitants of the city taking their evening drive. Later,
however, the _haut ton_, evidently thinking the Strand was getting too
plebeian, confined their evening drive to a place in the stately
procession up and down the Red Road, which thus became "the course."
EARLY-MORNING RACING.
That term must not be taken in its modern sense, however. If one spoke
about "the course" to-day, it would be understood to mean the
racecourse, but in those days it meant the venue of the evening drive,
There was then, as now, a racecourse in Calcutta, but, though on the
present site, it was, as might be expected, nothing like so elaborate.
There was only one stand, and that was opposite the old jail; there
was no totalisator and no book-makers. The Racing took place in the
early morning, from about 7 o'clock till 9 or 9-30. The only public
form of gambling on the racecourse then were the lotteries, which were
held the night before at the race-stand, and they were quite big ones,
numbers of them on each race. In addition, there was, of course,
plenty of private wagering between one man and another. Very often in
the cold weather racing would be held up by dense fogs so that for a
time it was difficult to see across the breadth of the course, the
consequence being that we were on those mornings late for office. Even
in those far-off days professional jockeys were employed, but
principally in the cold weather. The riding at the monsoon meetings
was mostly confined to G.R.'s.
SOCIAL AND OTHER CLUBS.
Of other sport there was not much. There was no football, and no
tennis clubs; but there were cricket clubs (Calcutta and Ballygunge),
and the Golf Club, which had the course and a tent on the site of the
present pavilion on the maidan, but there were few members and they
used to spend their time sipping pegs and chatting more often than
playing golf. Of course, there was polo for those who could afford it,
but there was no Tollygunge Club, no Royal Calcutta Golf Club, and no
Jodhpore Club.
As regards social clubs, there was the Bengal, which was then very
much more exclusive than now, and into which it was difficult to
obtain an entrance unless you had been a long time in the city and had
a certain standing. The old _Qui Hais_ who were members looked askance
at young men. There was also the United Service Club which was at
first confined strictly to I.C.S. men and military officers, but
subsequently financial considerations led to its being thrown open to
members of other services.
[Illustration: Distant view of Race Stands _Photo. by Bourne &
Shepherd._]
[Illustration: Belvedere]
THEATRICALS WITHOUT ACTRESSES.
In those days, there was no Saturday Club, and we were dependent for
our dancing on the assembly balls and private dances; the former used
to be held at the Town Hall about once a fortnight. All people of any
respectability were eligible to attend, and very pleasant, indeed,
these assembly balls were. We used also to have concerts mainly given
by amateurs, occasionally assisted by professionals, but there were
no professional theatricals. The demand for this kind of entertainment
was filled by the Calcutta Amateur Theatrical Society, which used to
give about six productions during the cold weather season. People who
flock to the theatres nowadays, especially in the cold weather, and
see companies with full choruses will probably be surprised to hear
that in our amateur performances there were no actresses. All the
ladies' parts were taken by young boys, and I remember well in my
younger days dressing up as a girl. I used to take the role of the
leading lady, and I remember two of our most successful efforts were
"London Assurance" and scenes from "Twelfth Night," in the former of
which I took the part of Lady Gay Spanker and Viola in the latter.
At first our performances were given on the ground floor of where the
Saturday Club now is, but after a time this was not found
satisfactory. Then one of our most enthusiastic members, "Jimmy"
Brown, who was a partner in a firm of jewellers, carried through a
scheme for building a theatre of our own, and this was erected in
Circular Road at the corner of Hungerford Street. Here we carried on
until in the great cyclone of 1864 the roof was blown off and the
building seriously damaged. We had, therefore, to move again, and went
to where Peliti's is now, which was then occupied as a shop. After one
season there, we were temporarily located in a theatre built in the
old Tivoli Gardens, opposite La Martiniere. The "CATS," as we used
to be designated, was a very old institution, and had been in
existence some time before I joined up. They were very ably and
energetically managed by Mr. G.H. Cable, assisted by Mrs. Cable, the
father and mother of the present Sir Ernest Cable. They were
affectionately and familiarly known among us all as the "Old Party and
the Mem Sahib." He used to cast all the characters and coach us up in
our parts, attend rehearsals, and on the nights of the performance was
always on the spot to give us confidence and encouragement when we
went on the stage, while Mrs. Cable was invaluable, more particularly
to the "ladies" of the company. She chose the material for the gowns,
designed the style and cut, tried them on, and saw that we were
properly and immaculately turned out to the smallest detail. On
performance nights I never had any thing before going on, and assisted
by the aid of tight lacing I could generally manage to squeeze my
waist within the compass of 24 inches. I recollect one evening when I
was rather more than usually tightened up, I had in the course of the
piece to sit on a couch that was particularly low-seated. I did not
notice this for the moment, but when I tried to rise I found myself in
considerable difficulty. I made several unsuccessful efforts, which
the audience were only too quick to notice, and when I heard a titter
running through the house, my feelings can be more easily imagined
than described. However, after a last despairing effort I managed to
extricate myself from the difficulty and get on my feet. Ever
afterwards I used carefully to inspect the couches before the
performance commenced. Amongst those who were members and associated
with us were E.C. Morgan and W.T. Berners, partners in the then
well-known firm of Ashburner & Co., who retired from business in the
year 1880. The former has been Chairman of Directors of the Calcutta
Tramway Co., I believe, ever since the company was incorporated, but I
hear that he has lately vacated the position. Berners, I believe, has
been living the life of a retired gentleman. I never heard that he
renewed his connection with business affairs after he got home. The
late Mr. Sylvester Dignam, a cousin of Mr. Cable, and latterly head
partner of the firm of Orr Dignam & Co., the well-known solicitors,
was also one of the troupe, and by his intimate knowledge of all
matters theatrical contributed very considerably to the success of our
efforts. I recollect he took the character of Dazzle in "London
Assurance" and Mr. Cable that of "Lawyer Meddle," which latter was the
funniest and most laughable performance I ever witnessed. We were all
in fits of laughter, and could scarcely contain ourselves whenever he
appeared on the stage.
"JIMMY" HUME.
Charles Brock, Willie and Donald Creaton, partners in Mackenzie Lyall
& Co., who were my greatest friends, but alas! are no more, were very
prominent members, and there is one more whom I must on no account
forget to mention, and though he (or she) comes almost last, does not
by any means rank as the least. I refer to "Jimmy" Hume, as he was
then known to his confreres, but who is in the present day our worthy
and much respected Public Prosecutor, Mr. J.T. Hume. In "London
Assurance" he portrayed the important part of Grace Harkaway, and a
very charming and presentable young lady he made.
But I must not forget to mention that his very laudable ambition to
obtain histrionic honours was at the outset very nearly nipped in the
bud. He, of course, had to disclose the fact that in his earlier life
he had committed a pardonable youthful indiscretion and had had both
his forearms fancifully adorned in indelible blue tattoo with a
representation of snakes, mermaids, and sundry. A solemn council of
the senior members of the company was forthwith held, presided over by
the Mem Sahib, "Old Party," and "Syl" Dignam. After a good deal of
anxious thought and discussion as to how the disfigurements could be
temporarily obliterated some one suggested gold-beater skin, which
was finally adopted and proved eminently successful. Not one of the
audience ever had the slightest suspicion that his (or her) arms were
not as they should have been, and such as any ordinary young lady
would not have disdained to possess.
CHARLIE PITTAR.
One of our most enthusiastic and energetic members was the late Mr.
Charles Pittar, a well-known and much-respected solicitor of the High
Court, and the father of Mrs. George Girard, the wife of our genial
Collector of Income-Tax. He was on all occasions well to the front,
and the services he rendered to the society on many momentous
occasions were invaluable, more especially in "London Assurance," to
which I have previously alluded. In fact, it is not too much to say
that without him it would have been very difficult to stage the piece.
As "Dolly" Spanker, my husband, he was inimitable, and brought down
the house two or three times during the evening. He was also very
great as "Little Toddlekins," a part that might have been specially
written for him. The character is that of a stout, somewhat bulky and
unwieldy young person who possesses an inordinate appreciation of her
own imaginary charms. Her father, whom I might designate as a
fly-by-night sort of a gentleman, a character which I once ventured to
portray myself, is obsessed by the one thought of getting rid of her
as quickly as possible, but all the would-be suitors the moment they
set eyes on her beat a hasty retreat. There were, of course, very many
more pieces that Mr. Pittar played in, but these two were the _chef
d'oeuvres_ of his repertoire.
As I am writing, the memory of another member of the company flits
across my mind, in the person of the late Mr. H.J. Place, familiarly
known as "H.J.," the founder of the well-known firm of Place, Siddons
and Gough. Although he was never cast for very prominent characters,
he was most useful in minor parts, and in other little ways helped the
company along by his many acts of unselfish devotion.
I must now regretfully take leave of a subject which has always
exercised a peculiar fascination over me, and I can truly say that
those old theatrical days were amongst the very happiest of my life.
ADVENT OF THE "PROF."
A year or two later, the first professional theatrical troupe came out
from Australia under the direction of Mr. and Mrs. Lewis, whom
probably a few people may still remember. They erected close to the
Ochterlony monument a temporary wooden structure, accessible by a
steep flight of steps, and played in it for a few seasons, after which
Lewis built the present Theatre Royal. He brought out several
companies in successive seasons, and other companies also used to come
and perform between-whiles, but only in the cold weather. Hot weather
entertainments were practically unknown. With the advent of
professionals, the Amateur Theatrical Association went out of
existence, just as the starting of the Saturday Club later, mainly
through the initiative of the Hon'ble Mr. Justice Louis Jackson,
killed the assembly balls.
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