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Science in the Kitchen. by Mrs. E. E. Kellogg

M >> Mrs. E. E. Kellogg >> Science in the Kitchen.



Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this
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SCIENCE IN THE KITCHEN.

A Scientific Treatise on Food Substances and Their Dietetic Properties,
together with a Practical Explanation of the Principles of Healthful
Cookery, and a Large Number of Original, Palatable, and Wholesome Recipes.

by

MRS. E. E. KELLOGG, A.M.

Superintendent of the Sanitarium School of Cookery and of the Bay View
Assembly School of Cookery, and Chairman of the World's Fair Committee
on Food Supplies, for Michigan

1893







PREFACE.

The interest in scientific cookery, particularly in cookery as related
to health, has manifestly increased in this country within the last
decade as is evidenced by the success which has attended every
intelligent effort for the establishment of schools for instruction in
cookery in various parts of the United States. While those in charge of
these schools have presented to their pupils excellent opportunities for
the acquirement of dexterity in the preparation of toothsome and
tempting viands, but little attention has been paid to the science of
dietetics, or what might be termed the hygiene of cookery.

A little less than ten years ago the Sanitarium at Battle Creek Mich.,
established an experimental kitchen and a school of cookery under the
supervision of Mrs. Dr. Kellogg, since which time, researches in the
various lines of cookery and dietetics have been in constant progress in
the experimental kitchen, and regular sessions of the school of cookery
have been held. The school has gradually gained in popularity, and the
demand for instruction has become so great that classes are in session
during almost the entire year.

During this time, Mrs. Kellogg has had constant oversight of the cuisine
of both the Sanitarium and the Sanitarium Hospital, preparing bills of
fare for the general and diet tables, and supplying constantly new
methods and original recipes to meet the changing and growing demands of
an institution numbering always from 500 to 700 inmates.

These large opportunities for observation, research, and experience,
have gradually developed a system of cookery, the leading features of
which are so entirely novel and so much in advance of the methods
heretofore in use, that it may be justly styled, _A New System of
Cookery_. It is a singular and lamentable fact, the evil consequences of
which are wide-spread, that the preparation of food, although involving
both chemical and physical processes, has been less advanced by the
results of modern researches and discoveries in chemistry and physics,
than any other department of human industry. Iron mining, glass-making,
even the homely art of brick-making, and many of the operations of the
farm and the dairy, have been advantageously modified by the results of
the fruitful labors of modern scientific investigators. But the art of
cookery is at least a century behind in the march of scientific
progress. The mistress of the kitchen is still groping her way amid the
uncertainties of mediaeval methods, and daily bemoaning the sad results
of the "rule of thumb." The chemistry of cookery is as little known to
the average housewife as were the results of modern chemistry to the old
alchemists; and the attempt to make wholesome, palatable, and
nourishing food by the methods commonly employed, is rarely more
successful than that of those misguided alchemists in transmuting lead
and copper into silver and gold.

The new cookery brings order from out the confusion of mixtures and
messes, often incongruence and incompatible, which surrounds the average
cook, by the elucidation of the principles which govern the operations
of the kitchen, with the same certainty with which the law of gravity
rules the planets.

Those who have made themselves familiar with Mrs. Kellogg's system of
cookery, invariably express themselves as trebly astonished: first, at
the simplicity of the methods employed; secondly, at the marvelous
results both as regards palatableness, wholesomeness, and
attractiveness; thirdly, that it had never occurred to them "to do this
way before."

This system does not consist simply of a rehash of what is found in
every cook book, but of new methods, which are the result of the
application of the scientific principles of chemistry and physics to the
preparation of food in such a manner as to make it the most nourishing,
the most digestible, and the most inviting to the eye and to the palate.

Those who have tested the results of Mrs. Kellogg's system of cookery at
the Sanitarium tables, or in their own homes through the instruction of
her pupils, have been most enthusiastic in their expressions of
satisfaction and commendation. Hundreds of original recipes which have
appeared in her department in _Good Health_, "Science in the Household",
have been copied into other journals, and are also quite largely
represented in the pages of several cook books which have appeared
within the last few years.

The great success which attended the cooking school in connection with
the Bay View Assembly (the Michigan Chautauqua), as well as the uniform
success which has met the efforts of many of the graduates of the
Sanitarium school of cookery who have undertaken to introduce the new
system through the means of cooking classes in various parts of the
United States, has created a demand for a fuller knowledge of the
system.

This volume is the outgrowth of the practical and experimental work, and
the popular demand above referred to. Its preparation has occupied the
entire leisure time of the author during the last five or six years. No
pains or expense has been spared to render the work authoritative on all
questions upon which it treats, and in presenting it to the public, the
publishers feel the utmost confidence that the work will meet the
highest expectations of those who have waited impatiently for its
appearance during the months which have elapsed since its preparation
was first announced. PUBLISHERS.



TABLE OF CONTENTS.


FOODS
Properties of food
Food elements
Uses of food elements
Proper combinations of food
Proper proportion of food elements
Condiments
Relation of condiments to intemperance
Variety in food
Table topics.


THE DIGESTION OF FOODS
The digestive organs
The digestion of a mouthful of bread
Salivary digestion
Stomach digestion
Intestinal digestion
Other uses of the digestive fluids
Absorption
Liver digestion
Time required for digestion
Dr. Beaumont's table made from experiments on Alexis St. Martin
Hygiene of digestion
Hasty eating
Drinking freely at meals
Eating between meals
Simplicity in diet
Eating when tired
Eating too much
How much food is enough
Excess of certain food elements
Deficiency of certain food elements
Food combinations
Table topics.

COOKERY
Evils of bad cookery
The principles of scientific cookery
Fuels
Making fires
Care of fires
Methods of cooking
Roasting
Broiling or grilling
Baking
The oven thermometer
Boiling
The boiling point of water
How to raise the boiling point of water
Action of hot and cold water upon foods
Steaming
Stewing
Frying
Evaporation
Adding foods to boiling liquids
Measuring
Comparative table of weights and measures
Mixing the material
Stirring
Beating
Kneading
Temperature
Cooking utensils
Porcelain ware
Granite ware
Galvanized iron ware
Tests for lead
Adulterated tin
Table topics.

THE HOUSEHOLD WORKSHOP
Description of a convenient kitchen
The kitchen furniture
Cupboards
A convenient kitchen table
The kitchen sink
Drainpipes
Stoves and ranges
Oil and gas stoves
The "Aladdin Cooker"
Kitchen utensils
The tin closet
The dish closet
The pantry
The storeroom
The refrigerator
The water supply
Test for pure water
Filters
Cellars
Kitchen conveniences
The steam cooker
The vegetable press-The lemon drill
The handy waiter
The wall cabinet
The percolater holder
Kneading table
Dish-towel rack
Kitchen brushes
Vegetable brush
Table topics.

THE GRAINS, OR CEREALS, AND THEIR PREPARATION
General properties of grains
Cooking of grains
The double boiler
Table showing amount of liquid, and time required for cooking
different grains
Grains for breakfast-Grains an economical food
Wheat
Description of a grain of wheat
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Pearl wheat
Cracked wheat
Rolled wheat
Boiled wheat
Wheat with raisins
Wheat with fresh fruit
Molded wheat
Finer mill products of wheat
_Recipes_:
Farina
Farina with fig sauce
Farina with fresh fruit
Molded farina
Graham grits
Graham mush
Graham mush No. 2
Graham mush No. 3
Graham mush with dates
Plum porridge
Graham apple mush
Granola mush
Granola fruit mush
Granola peach mush
Bran jelly
The oat, description of
Oatmeal
Brose
Budrum
Flummery
Preparation and cooking of oats
_Recipes_:
Oatmeal mush
Oatmeal fruit mush
Oatmeal blancmange
Oatmeal Blancmange No. 2
Jellied oatmeal
Mixed mush
Rolled oats
Oatmeal with apple
Oatmeal porridge
Barley, description of
Gofio
Scotch milled or pot barley
Pearl barley
Suggestions for cooking barley
_Recipes_:
Baked barley
Pearl barley with raisins
Pearl barley with lemon sauce
Rice, description of
Rice paddy
Preparation and cooking of rice
_Recipes_:
Steamed rice
Boiled rice
Rice with fig sauce
Orange rice
Rice with raisins
Rice with peaches
Browned rice
Rye, description of
Rye meal
Rye flour
_Recipes_:
Rolled rye
Rye mush
Maize, or Indian corn, description of
Suggestions for cooking corn
_Recipes_:
Corn meal mush
Corn meal mush with fruit
Corn meal cubes
Browned mush
Samp
Cerealine flakes
Hulled corn
Coarse hominy
Fine hominy or grits
Popped corn
Macaroni, description of
Semolina
Spaghetti
Vermicelli
To select macaroni
To prepare and cook macaroni
_Recipes_:
Homemade macaroni
Boiled macaroni
Macaroni with cream sauce
Macaroni with tomato sauce
Macaroni baked with granola
Eggs and macaroni
Table topics.

BREADSTUFFS AND BREAD-MAKING
The origin of bread
Chestnut bread
Peanut bread
Breadstuffs
Qualities necessary for good bread
Superiority of bread over meat
Graham flour
Wheat meal
Whole-wheat or entire wheat flour
How to select flour
To keep flour
Deleterious adulterations of flour
Tests for adulterated flour
Chemistry of bread-making
Bread made light by fermentation
The process of fermentation
Fermentative agents
Yeast
Homemade yeasts
How to keep yeast
Bitter yeast
Tests for yeast
Starting the bread
Proportion of materials needed
Utensils
When to set the sponge
Temperature for bread-making
How to set the sponge
Lightness of the bread
Kneading the dough
How to manipulate the dough in kneading
How many times shall bread be kneaded
Dryness of the surface
Size of loaves
Proper temperature of the oven
How to test the heat of an oven
Care of bread after baking
Best method of keeping bread
Test of good fermented bread
Whole-wheat and Graham breads
Toast
Steamed bread
Liquid yeast
_Recipes_:
Raw potato yeast
Raw potato yeast No. 2
Hop yeast
Boiled potato yeast
Boiled potato yeast No. 2
Fermented breads
_Recipes_:
Milk bread with white flour
Vienna bread
Water bread
Fruit roll
Fruit loaf
Potato bread
Pulled bread
Whole-wheat bread
Whole-wheat bread No. 2
Miss B's one-rising bread
Potato bread with whole-wheat flour
Rye bread
Graham bread
Graham bread No. 2
Graham bread No. 3
Raised biscuit
Rolls
Imperial rolls
French rolls
Crescents
Parker House rolls
Braids
Brown bread
Date bread
Fruit loaf with Graham and whole-wheat flour
Raised corn bread
Corn cake
Oatmeal bread
Milk yeast bread
Graham salt rising bread
Unfermented breads
Passover cakes
Tortillas
Evils of chemical bread raising
Rochelle salts in baking powders
General directions
Gem irons
Perforated sheet-iron pan for rolls
Unfermented batter breads
Unfermented dough breads
_Recipes_:
Whole-wheat puffs
Whole-wheat puffs No. 2
Whole-wheat puffs No. 3
Graham puffs
Graham puffs No. 2
Currant puffs
Graham gems
Crusts
Rye puffs
Rye puffs No. 2
Rye gems
Blueberry gems
Hominy gems
Sally Lunn gems
Corn puffs
Corn puffs No. 2
Corn puffs No 3
Corn puffs No. 4
Corn dodgers
Corn dodgers No. 2
Cream corn cakes
Hoe cakes
Oatmeal gems
Snow gems
Pop overs
Granola gems
Bean gems
Breakfast rolls
Sticks
Cream Graham rolls
Corn mush rolls
Fruit rolls
Cream mush rolls
Beaten biscuit
Cream crisps
Cream crisps No. 2
Graham crisps
Oatmeal crisps
Graham crackers
Fruit crackers
Table topics.

FRUITS:
Chemical constituents of
Value as nutrients
Structure of fruits
The jelly-producing principle
Digestibility of fruits
Unripe fruits
Table of fruit analysis
Ripe fruit and digestive disorders
Over-ripe and decayed fruits
Dangerous bacteria on unwashed fruit
Free use of fruit lessens desire for alcoholic stimulants
Beneficial use of fruits in disease
Apples
The pear
The quince
The peach
The plum
The prune
The apricot
The cherry
The olive; its cultivation and preservation
The date, description and uses of
The orange
The lemon
The sweet lemon or bergamot
The citron
The lime
The grape-fruit
The pomegranate, its antiquity
The grape
Zante currants
The gooseberry
The currant
The whortleberry
The blueberry
The cranberry
The strawberry
The raspberry
The blackberry
The mulberry
The melon
The fig, its antiquity and cultivation
The banana
Banana meal
The pineapple
Fresh fruit for the table
Selection of fruit for the table
Directions for serving fruits
Apples
Bananas
Cherries
Currants
Goosberries
Grapes
Melons
Oranges
Peaches and pears
Peaches and cream
Pineapples
Plums
Pressed Figs
Raspberries, Blackberries, Dewberries, Blueberries and Whortlberries
Frosted fruit
Keeping fresh fruit
Directions for packing, handling, and keeping fruits
_Recipes_:
To keep grapes
To keep lemons and oranges
To keep cranberries
Cooked fruit
General suggestions for cooking fruit
_Recipes_:
Baked apples
Citron apples
Lemon apples
Baked pears
Baked quince
Pippins and quince
Baked apple sauce
Baked apple sauce No. 2
Apples stewed whole
Steamed apples
Compote of apples
Apple compote No. 2
Stewed pears
Stewed apple sauce
Boiled apples with syrup
Stewed apples
Stewed crab apples
Sweet apple sauce with condensed apple juice
Apples with raisins
Apples with apricots
Peaches, pears, cherries, berries, and other small fruits
Baked apples
Baked pears
Baked peaches
Cranberries
Cranberries with raisins
Cranberries with sweet apples
Oranges and apples
Stewed raisins
Dried apples
Dried apples with other dried fruit
Dried apricots and peaches
Evaporated peach sauce
Dried pears
Small fruits
Prunes
Prune marmalade
Canning fruit
Selection of cans
How to test and sterilize cans
Selection of fruit
Directions for preparing fruit
Cooking fruit for canning
Storing of canned fruit
Mold on canned fruit
Opening of canned fruit
Rules for selecting canned fruit
_Recipes_:
To can strawberries
To can raspberries, blackberries and other small fruit
To can gooseberries
To can peaches
To can pears
To can plums
To can cherries
To can mixed fruit
Quinces and apples
Plums with sweet apples
To can grapes
To can crab apples
To can apples
To can pineapples
Fruit jellies
_Recipes_:
Apple jelly
Apple jelly without sugar
Berry and currant jellies
Cherry jelly
Crab apple jelly
Cranberry jelly
Grape jelly
Orange jelly
Peach Jelly
Quince jelly
Plum jelly
Fruit in jelly
Fruit juices, value of
How to prepare fruit juices
_Recipes:_
Grape juice or unfermented wine
Grape juice No. 2
Another method
Fruit syrup
Currant syrup
Orange syrup
Lemon syrup
Lemon syrup No 2
Blackberry syrup
Fruit ices
Nuts
Composition and nutritive value of
The almond
Almond bread
The Brazil nut
The cocoanut, its uses in tropical countries
The chestnut
Chestnut flour
The acorn
The hazel nut
The filbert
The cobnut
The walnut
The butternut
The hickory nut
The pecan
The peanut or ground nut
_Recipes:_
To blanch almonds
Boiled chestnuts
Mashed chestnuts
Baked chestnuts
To keep nuts fresh
Table topics.

THE LEGUMES
Composition and nutritive value
Legumes as a substitute for animal food
Legumin, or vegetable casein
Chinese cheese
Legumes the "pulse" of Scripture
Diet of the pyramid builders
Digestibility of legumes
A fourteenth century recipe
The green legumes
Suggestions for cooking
Slow cooking preferable
Soaking the dry seeds
Effects of hard water upon the legumes
Temperature of water for cooking
Amount of water required
Addition of salt to legumes
Peas, description of
Buying votes with peas
A commemorative dinner
Peas bainocks
Peas sausages
Peas pudding
Time required for cooking
_Recipes:_
Stewed split peas
Peas puree
Mashed peas
Peas cakes
Dried green peas
Beans, description of
Mention of beans in Scripture
Beans in mythology
Time required for digestion
Method of cooking
Experiment of an English cook
Parboiling beans
Time required to cook
_Recipes:_
Baked beans
Boiled beans
Beans boiled in a bag
Scalloped beans
Stewed beans
Mashed beans
Stewed Lima beans
Succotash
Pulp succotash
Lentils, description of
Use of lentils by the ancients
Lentil meal
Preparation for cooking
_Recipes:_
Lentil puree
Lentils mashed with beans
Lentil gravy with rice
Table topics.

VEGETABLES
Composition and nutritive value of vegetables
Exclusive diet of vegetables not desirable
To select vegetables
Poison in potato sprouts
Stale vegetables a cause of illness
Keeping vegetables
To freshen withered vegetables
Storing winter vegetables
Preparation and cooking
To clean vegetables for cooking
Methods of cooking
Time required for cooking various vegetables
Irish potato, description of
The chemistry of cooking
Digestibility of the potato
New potatoes
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Potatoes boiled in "jackets"
Boiled potatoes without skins
Steamed potatoes
Roasted potatoes
Baked potatoes
Stuffed potatoes
Stuffed potatoes No. 2
Mashed potatoes
New potatoes
Cracked potatoes
Creamed potatoes
Scalloped potatoes
Stewed potatoes
Potatoes stewed with celery
Potato snow balls
Potato cakes
Potato cakes with egg
Potato puffs
Browned potatoes
Ornamental potatoes
Broiled potatoes
Warmed-over potatoes
Vegetable hash
The sweet potato, description of
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Baked sweet potatoes
Baked sweet potatoes No 2
Boiled sweet potatoes
Steamed sweet potatoes
Browned sweet potatoes
Mashed sweet potatoes
Potato hash
Roasted sweet potatoes
Turnips, description of
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Boiled turnips
Baked turnips
Creamed turnips
Chopped turnips
Mashed turnips
Scalloped turnips
Steamed turnips
Stewed turnips
Turnips in juice
Turnips with cream sauce
Parsnips, description of
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Baked parsnips
Baked parsnips No. 2
Boiled parsnips
Browned parsnips
Creamed parsnips
Mashed parsnips
Parsnips with cream sauce
Parsnips with egg sauce
Parsnips with potatoes
Stewed parsnips
Stewed parsnips with celery
Carrots, description of
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Boiled carrots
Carrots with egg sauce
Stewed carrots
Beets, description of
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Baked beets
Baked beets No. 2
Beets and potatoes
Beet hash
Beet greens
Beet salad or chopped beets
Beet salad No 2
Boiled beets
Stewed beets
Cabbage, description of
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Baked cabbage
Boiled cabbage
Cabbage and tomatoes
Cabbage and celery
Cabbage hash
Chopped cabbage or cabbage salad
Mashed cabbage
Stewed cabbage
Cauliflower and Broccoli, description of
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Boiled cauliflower
Browned cauliflower
Cauliflower with egg sauce
With tomato sauce
Stewed cauliflower
Scalloped cauliflower
Spinach, description of
Preparation and cooking
Celery
To keep celery fresh
_Recipes_:
Celery salad
Stewed celery
Stewed celery No. 2
Celery with tomato sauce
Celery and potato hash
Asparagus, description of
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Asparagus and peas
Asparagus Points
Asparagus on toast
Asparagus with cream sauce
Asparagus with egg sauce
Stewed asparagus
Sea-kale, description of
Lettuce and radish, description of
_Recipes:_
Lettuce
Radishes
Cymling
Description
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes:_
Mashed squash
Squash with egg sauce
Stewed squash
Winter squash
Preparation and cooking
Time required for cooking
_Recipes_:
Baked squash
Steamed squash
The pumpkin, description of
_Recipes_:
Baked pumpkin
Stewed pumpkin
Dried pumpkin
Tomato, description of
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Baked tomatoes
Baked tomatoes No. 2
Scalloped tomatoes
Stewed corn and tomatoes
Tomato gravy
Tomato salad
Tomato salad No. 2
Broiled tomatoes
Tomato pudding
Stewed tomatoes
Tomato with okra
Egg plant, description of
Nutritive value
_Recipes_:
Scalloped egg plant
Baked egg plant
Cucumber, description of
Digestibility
Preparation and cooking
Salsify or vegetable oyster, description of
Preparation and cooking
_Recipes_:
Scalloped vegetable oysters
Stewed vegetable oysters
Green corn, peas, and beans, description of
General suggestions for selecting and cooking
_Recipes for corn_:
Baked corn
Baked corn No. 2
Boiled green corn
Stewed corn pulp
Corn cakes
Corn pudding
Roasted green corn
Stewed green corn
Summer succotash
Dried corn
_Recipe for peas_:
Stewed peas
_Recipes for beans_:
Lima beans
Shelled beans
String beans
Canning vegetables
_Recipes_:
Canned corn
Canned corn and tomatoes
Canned peas
Canned tomatoes
Canned tomatoes No. 2
String beans
Canned pumpkin and squash
Table topics.