The Story of the Philippines and Our New Possessions, by Murat Halstead

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As in all tropical countries, the year is divided into two seasons--the
dry and the rainy. In general, the rainy season commences in August
and ends the last of December, southerly and westerly winds prevailing
during this period. The rainfall is excessive, often inundating fields
and forming extensive lagoons. The exhalations from these lagoons
give rise to a number of diseases, but, nevertheless, Porto Rico is
one of the healthiest islands of the archipelago.

In the month of May the rains commence, not with the fury of a deluge,
as in the months of August and September, but heavier than any rain
experienced in Europe. Peals of thunder reverberating through the
mountains give a warning of their approach, and the sun breaking
through the clouds promotes the prolific vegetation of the fields with
its vivifying heat. The heat at this season is equal to the summer of
Europe, and the nights are cool and pleasant; but the dews are heavy
and pernicious to health. The following meteorological observations,
carefully made by Don Jose Ma. Vertez, a Captain of the Spanish navy,
will exhibit the average range of temperature:

Ds of heat observed in the capital of Porto Rico, taking a medium of
five years.

Degrees of Heat Observed in the Capital of Porto Rico, Taking a Medium
of Five Years.

Hours of the Day. Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May. June. July. Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec.
Seven in the morning 72 72 1/2 74 78 78 82 85 86 80 1/2 77 75 75
Noon 82 81 82 83 85 86 90 92 88 85 84 80
Five in the evening 78 74 78 80 81 84 87 90 83 82 80 79

The weather, after a fifteen or twenty days' rain, clears up and the
sun, whose heat has been hitherto moderated by partial clouds and
showers of rain, seems, as it were, set in a cloudless sky. The cattle
in the pastures look for the shade of the trees, and a perfect calm
pervades the whole face of nature from sunrise till between 10 and 11
o'clock in the morning, when the sea breeze sets in. The leaves of the
trees seem as if afraid to move, and the sea, without a wave or ruffle
on its vast expanse, appears like an immense mirror. Man partakes in
the general languor as well as the vegetable and brute creation.

The nights, although warm, are delightfully clear and serene at
this season. Objects may be clearly distinguished at the distance of
several hundred yards, so that one may even shoot by moonlight. The
months of June and July offer very little variation in the weather or
temperature. In August a suffocating heat reigns throughout the day,
and at night it is useless to seek for coolness; a faint zephyr is
succeeded by a calm of several hours. The atmosphere is heavy and
oppressive, and the body, weakened by perspiration, becomes languid;
the appetite fails, and the mosquitos, buzzing about the ears by day
and night, perplex and annoy by their stings, while the fevers of the
tropics attack Europeans with sudden and irresistible violence. This
is the most sickly season for the European. The thermometer frequently
exceeds 90 deg. The clouds exhibit a menacing appearance, portending
the approach of the heavy autumnal rains, which pour down like
a deluge. About the middle of September it appears as if all the
vapors of the ocean had accumulated in one point of the heavens. The
rain comes down like an immense quantity of water poured through a
sieve; it excludes from the view every surrounding object, and in
half an hour the whole surface of the earth becomes an immense sheet
of water. The rivers are swollen and overflow their banks, the low
lands are completely inundated, and the smallest brooks become deep
and rapid torrents.

In the month of October the weather becomes sensibly cooler than
during the preceding months, and in November the north and northeast
winds generally set in, diffusing an agreeable coolness through the
surrounding atmosphere. The body becomes braced and active, and the
convalescent feels its genial influence. The north wind is accompanied
(with few exceptions) by heavy showers of rain on the north coast;
and the sea rolls on that coast with tempestuous violence, while the
south coast remains perfectly calm.

When the fury of the north wind abates, it is succeeded by fine
weather and a clear sky. Nothing can exceed the climate of Porto
Rico at this season; one can only compare it to the month of May in
the delightful Province of Andalusia, where the cold of winter and
the burning heat of summer are tempered by the cool freshness of
spring. This is considered to be the healthiest season of the year,
when a European may visit the tropics without fear.

The small islands, destitute of wood and high mountains, which have a
powerful effect in attracting the clouds, suffer much from drought. It
sometimes happens that in Curacao, St. Bartholomews, and other islands
there are whole years without a drop of rain, and after exhausting
their cisterns the inhabitants are compelled to import water from
the rivers of other islands.

"The land breeze" is an advantage which the large islands derive
from the inequality of their surface; for as soon as the sea breeze
dies away, the hot air of the valleys being rarified, ascends toward
the tops of the mountains, and is there condensed by cold, which
makes it specifically heavier than it was before; it then descends
back to the valleys on both sides of the ridge. Hence a night wind
(blowing on all sides from the land toward the shore) is felt in all
the mountainous countries under the torrid zone. On the north shore
the wind comes from the south, and on the south shore from the north.

Storms.--The hurricanes which visit the island, and which obey the
general laws of tropical cyclones, are one of the worst scourges of the
country. For hours before the appearance of this terrible phenomenon
the sea appears calm; the waves come from a long distance very gently
until near the shore, when they suddenly rise as if impelled by a
superior force, dashing against the land with extraordinary violence
and fearful noise. Together with this sign, the air is noticed to be
disturbed, the sun red, and the stars obscured by vapor which seems
to magnify them. A strong odor is perceived in the sea, which is
sulphureous in the waters of rivers, and there are sudden changes in
the wind. These omens, together with the signs of uneasiness manifested
by various animals, foretell the proximity of a hurricane.

This is a sort of whirlwind, accompanied by rain, thunder and
lightning, sometimes by earthquake shocks, and always by the most
terrible and devastating circumstances that can possibly combine to
ruin a country in a few hours. A clear, serene day is followed by the
darkest night; the delightful view offered by woods and prairies is
diverted into the deary waste of a cruel winter; the tallest and most
robust cedar trees are uprooted, broken off bodily, and hurled into
a heap; roofs, balconies, and windows of houses are carried through
the air like dry leaves, and in all directions are seen houses and
estates laid waste and thrown into confusion.

The fierce roar of the water and of the trees being destroyed by the
winds, the cries and moans of persons, the bellowing of cattle and
neighing of horses, which are being carried from place to place by
the whirlwinds, the torrents of water inundating the fields, and a
deluge of fire being let loose in flashes and streaks of lightning,
seem to announce the last convulsions of the universe and the death
agonies of nature itself.

Sometimes these hurricanes are felt only on the north coast, at
others on the south coast, although generally their influence extends
throughout the island.

In 1825 a hurricane destroyed the towns of Patillas, Maunabo, Yabucoa,
Humacao, Gurabo, and Caguas, causing much damage in other towns in
the east, north, and center of the island. The island was also visited
by a terrible hurricane in 1772.

Earthquakes.--Earthquakes are somewhat frequent, but not violent or
of great consequence. The natives foretell them by noticing clouds
settle near the ground for some time in the open places among the
mountains. The water of the springs emits a sulphurous odor or leaves
a strange taste in the mouth; birds gather in large flocks and fly
about uttering shriller cries than usual; cattle bellow and horses
neigh, etc. A few hours beforehand the air becomes calm and dimmed by
vapors which arise from the ground, and a few moments before there is a
slight breeze, followed at intervals of two or three minutes by a deep
rumbling noise, accompanied by a sudden gust of wind, which are the
forerunners of the vibration, the latter following immediately. These
shocks are sometimes violent and are usually repeated, but owing to
the special construction of the houses, they cause no damage.

Tides.--For seven hours the tide runs rapidly in a northwest direction,
returning in the opposite direction with equal rapidity for five hours.

Orography.--The general relief of Porto Rico is much inferior in
altitude to that of the rest of the Great Antilles, and even some of
the Lesser Antilles have mountain summits which rival it.

A great chain of mountains divides the islands into two parts, northern
and southern, which are called by the natives Banda del Norte and
Banda del Sur. This chain sends out long ramifications toward the
coasts, the interstices of which form beautiful and fertile valleys,
composed in the high parts of white and red earths, on the spurs of
black and weaker earths, and near the coasts of sand.

To the northwest and following a direction almost parallel with the
northern coast, the Sierra of Lares extends from Aguadilla to the
town of Lares, where it divides into two branches, one going north
nearly to the coast, near Arecibo harbor, and the other extending
to the spurs of the Sierra Grande de Banos; this latter starting
from Point Guaniquilla, crosses the island in its entire length,
its last third forming the Sierra of Cayey.

The whole island may be said to form a continuous network of sierras,
hills, and heights. Of these the Sierra del Loquillo is distinguished
for its great altitude (the highest peak being Yunque, in the northeast
corner of the island and visible from the sea, a distance of 120
kilometers), as is also Laivonito Mountain, near the south coast.

The following are the four highest mountains, with their heights above
the sea level: Yunque, in Luquillo, 1,290 yards; Guilarte, in Adjuntas,
1,180 yards; La Somanta, in Aybonito, 1,077 yards; Las Teras de Cerro
Gordo, in San German, 860 yards. All are easily ascended on foot or
horseback, and there are coffee plantations near all of them.

Approximate Height of Towns Above the Sea Level.--Aybonito, with its
acclimatization station, 970 yards; Adjuntas, an almost exclusively
Spanish town, 810 yards; Cayey, with a very agreeable climate,
750 yards; Lares, with a very agreeable climate, 510 yards; Utuado,
with a very agreeable climate, 480 yards; Muricao, an exclusively
Spanish town, 480 yards. To ascend to all these towns there are very
good wagon roads. There are no fortifications of any kind in them,
but they are surrounded on all sides by mountains.

Hydrography.--Few countries of the extent of Porto Rico are watered by
so many streams. Seventeen rivers, taking their rise in the mountains,
cross the valleys of the north coast and empty into the sea. Some of
these are navigable 2 or 3 leagues from their mouths for schooners and
small coasting vessels. Those of Manati, Loisa, Trabajo, and Arecibo
are very deep and broad, and it is difficult to imagine how such large
bodies of water can be collected in so short a course. Owing to the
heavy surf which continually breaks on the north coast, these rivers
have bars across their embouchures which do not allow large vessels
to enter. The rivers of Bayamo and Rio Piedras flow into the harbor
of the capital, and are also navigable for boats. At high water small
brigs may enter the river of Arecibo with perfect safety and discharge
their cargoes, notwithstanding the bar which crosses its mouth.

The rivers of the north coast have a decided advantage over those
of the south coast, where the climate is drier and the rains less
frequent. Nevertheless, the south, west, and east coasts are well
supplied with water; and, although in some seasons it does not rain
for ten, and sometimes twelve months on the south coast, the rivers
are never entirely dried up.

From the Cabeza de San Juan, which is the northeast extremity of
the island, to the cape of Mala Pascua, which lies to the southeast,
9 rivers fall into the sea.

From Cape Mala Pascua to Point Aguila, which forms the southwest angle
of the island, 16 rivers discharge their waters on the south coast.

On the west coast 3 rivers, 5 rivulets, and several fresh-water
lakes communicate with the sea. In the small extent of 330 leagues
of area there are 46 rivers, besides a countless number of rivulets
and branches of navigable water.

The rivers of the north coast are stocked with delicious fish, some
of them large enough to weigh two quintals.

From the river of Arecibo to that of Manati, a distance of 5 leagues,
a fresh-water lagoon, perfectly navigable for small vessels through
the whole of its extent, runs parallel to the sea at about a mile
from the shore.

In the fertile valley of Anasco, on the western coast, there is a
canal formed by nature, deep and navigable. None of the rivers are
of real military importance; for, though considering the shortness of
their course, they attain quite a volume, still it is not sufficient
for good-sized vessels.

The rivers emptying on the north coast are Loisa, Aguas Prietas,
Arecibo, Bayamon, Camuy, Cedros, Grande, Guajaraca de la Tuna,
Lesayas, Loquillo, Manati, Rio Piedras, Sabana, San Martin, Sibuco,
Toa, and Vega.

Those emptying on the east coast are Candelero, Dagua, Fajardo,
Guayanes, Majogua, and Maonabo.

On the south coast: Aquamanil, Caballon, Cana, Coamo, Descalabrado,
Guanica, Guayama, Guayanilla, Jacagua, Manglar, Penuela, Ponce
and Vigia.

On the west coast: Aguada, Boqueron, Cajas, Culebrina, Chico,
Guanajibo, Mayaguez, and Rincon.

The limits of the Loisa river are: On the east, the sierra of
Luquillo (situated near the northeast corner of the island); on the
south, the sierra of Cayey, and on the west, ramifications of the
latter. It rises in the northern slopes of the sierra of Cayey, and,
running in a northwest direction for the first half of its course
and turning to northeast in the second half, it arrives at Loisa,
a port on the northern coast, where it discharges its waters into the
Atlantic. During the first part of its course it is known by the name
of Cayagua.

The Sabana river has, to the east and south, the western and southern
limits of the preceding river, and on the west the Sierra Grande,
or De Barros, which is situated in the center of the general divide,
or watershed. It rises in the sierra of Cayey, and, with the name of
Pinones river, it flows northwest, passing through Aibonito, Toa Alta,
Toa Baja, and Dorado, where it discharges into the Atlantic to the
west of the preceding river.

The Manati river is bounded on the cast and south by the Sierra Grande
and on the west by the Siales ridge. It rises in the Sierra Grande,
and parallel with the preceding river, it flows through Siales and
Manati, to the north of which latter town it empties into the Atlantic.

The Arecibo river is bounded on the east by the Siales mountain
ridge, on the south by the western extremity of the Sierra Grande,
and on the west by the Lares ridge. It rises in the general divide,
near Adjuntas, and flows north through the town of Arecibo to the
Atlantic, shortly before emptying into which it receives the Tanama
river from the left, which proceeds from the Lares Mountains.

The Culebrina river is bounded on the south and east by the
Lares mountain ridge, and on the north by small hills of little
interest. From the Lares Mountains it flows from east to west and
empties on the west coast north of San Francisco de la Aguada, in
the center of the bay formed between Point Penas Blancas and Point
San Francisco.

The Anasco river is formed by the Lares mountain ridge. It rises in
the eastern extremity of the mountains called Tetas de Cerro Gordo,
flowing first northwest and then west, through the town of its name
and thence to the sea.

The Guanajivo river has to its north the ramifications of the Lares
ridge, to the east the Tetas de Cerro Gordo Mountains, and on the
south Torre Hill. In the interior of its basin is the mountain called
Cerro Montuoso, which separates its waters from those of its affluent
from the right, the Rosaria river. It rises in the general divide,
flowing from east to west to Nuestra Senora de Montserrat, where it
receives the affluent mentioned, the two together then emptying south
of Port Mayaguez.

The Coamo river is bounded on the west and north by the Sierra Grande,
and on the west by the Coamo ridge. It rises in the former of these
sierras, and flowing from north to south it empties east of Coamo
Point, after having watered the town of its name.

The Salinas river is bounded on the west by the Coamo ridge, on the
north by the general divide, and on the east by the Cayey ridge. It
rises in the southern slopes of the Sierra Grande and flowing from
north to south through Salinas de Coamo, empties into the sea.

Coasts, Harbors, Bays, and Coves.--The northern coast extends in an
almost straight line from east to west, and is high and rugged. The
only harbors it has are the following: San Juan de Porto Rico,
surrounded by mangrove swamps and protected by the Cabras and
the Cabritas islands and some very dangerous banks; the anchoring
ground of Arecibo, somewhat unprotected; and the coves of Cangrejos
and Condado. During the months of November, December, and January,
when the wind blows with violence from the east and northeast, the
anchorage is dangerous in all the bays and harbors of this coast,
except in the port of San Juan. Vessels are often obliged to put to
sea on the menacing aspect of the heavens at this season, to avoid
being driven on shore by the heavy squalls and the rolling waves
of a boisterous sea, which propel them to destruction. During the
remaining months the ports on this coast are safe and commodious,
unless when visited by a hurricane, against whose fury no port can
offer a shelter, nor any vessel be secure. The excellent port of San
Juan is perfectly sheltered from the effects of the north wind. The
hill, upon which the town of that name and the fortifications which
defend it are built, protects the vessels anchored in the harbor. The
entrance of this port is narrow, and requires a pilot; for the canal
which leads to the anchorage, although deep enough for vessels of any
dimensions, is very narrow, which exposes them to run aground. This
port is several miles in extent, and has the advantage of having deep
canals to the east, among a wood of mangrove trees, where vessels
are perfectly secure during the hurricane months. Vessels of 250 tons
can at present unload and take in their cargoes at the wharf. Harbor
improvements have been recently made here.

On the northwest and west are the coves of Aguadilla, the town of
this name being some 4 kilometers inland. There are the small coves
of Rincon, Anasco, and Mayaguez, the latter being protected and of
sufficient depth to anchor vessels of moderate draft; the harbor of
Real de Cabo Rojo, nearly round, and entered by a narrow channel;
and the cove of Boqueron. The spacious bay of Aguadilla is formed by
Cape Borrigua and Cape San Francisco. When the north-northwest and
southwest winds prevail it is not a safe anchorage for ships. A heavy
surf rolling on the shore obliges vessels to seek safety by putting
to sea on the appearance of a north wind. Mayaguez is also an open
roadstead formed by two projecting capes. It has good anchorage
for vessels of a large size and is well sheltered from the north
winds. The port of Cabo Rojo has also good anchorage. It is situated
S. one-fourth N. of the point of Guanajico, at a distance of 5 1/2
miles. Its shape is nearly circular, and it extends from east to west
3 to 4 miles. At the entrance it has 3 fathoms of water, and 16 feet
in the middle of the harbor. The entrance is a narrow canal.

The south coast abounds in bays and harbors, but is covered with
mangroves and reefs, the only harbor where vessels of regular draft can
enter being Guanica and Ponce. The former of these is the westernmost
harbor on the southern coast, being at the same time the best, though
the least visited, owing to the swamps and low tracts difficult to
cross leading from it to the interior. The nearest towns, San German,
Sabana Grande, and Yauco, carry on a small trade through this port.

In the port of Guanica, vessels drawing 21 feet of water may enter with
perfect safety. Its entrance is about 100 yards wide, and it forms a
spacious basin, completely landlocked. The vessels may anchor close to
the shore. It has, in the whole extent, from 6 1/2 to 3 fathoms, the
latter depth being formed in the exterior of the port. The entrance is
commanded by two small hills on either side, which if mounted with a
few pieces of artillery would defy a squadron to force it. This port
would be of immense advantage in time of war. The national vessels
and coasters would thus have a secure retreat from an enemy's cruiser
on the south coast. There are no wharves, but vessels could disembark
troops by running alongside the land and running out a plank. Coamo
Cove and Aguirre and Guayama are also harbors. The port of Jovos,
near Guayama, is a haven of considerable importance. It is a large
and healthy place, and the most Spanish of any city on the island
after San Juan. There are good roads to the capital. Vessels of the
largest kind may anchor and ride in safety from the winds, and the
whole British navy would find room in its spacious bosom. It has 4
fathoms of water in the shallowest part of the entrance. However,
it is difficult to enter this port from June to November, as the sea
breaks with violence at the entrance, on account of the southerly winds
which reign at that season. It has every convenience of situation and
locality for forming docks for the repair of shipping. The large bay
of Anasco, on the south coast, affords anchorage to vessels of all
sizes. It is also safe from the north winds. Although on the eastern
coast there are many places for vessels to anchor, yet none of them
are exempt from danger during the north winds except Fajardo, where a
safe anchorage is to be found to leeward of two little islands close
to the bay, where vessels are completely sheltered.

The island of Vieques has also several commodious ports and harbors,
where vessels of the largest size may ride at anchor.

On the east coast is Cape Cabeza de San Juan, Points Lima, Candeleros,
and Naranjo, and Cape Mala Pascua; on the south coast, Point Viento,
Tigueras, Corchones, Arenas, Fama or Maria, Cucharas, Guayanilla,
Guanica, and Morillos de Cabo Rojo; on the west coast, points San
Francisco, Cadena, Guanijito, Guaniquilla, and Palo Seco.

Highways.--There are few roads or ways of communication which
are worthy of mention, with the exception of the broad pike which
starts from the capital and runs along the coast, passing through the
following towns: Aguadilla, Bayamon, Cabo Rojo, Ilumacao, Juana Diaz,
Mayaguez, Ponce, and San German. It has no bridges; is good in dry
weather, but in the rainy season is impassible for wagons and even
at times for horsemen.

For interior communication there are only a few local roads or
paths. They are usually 2 yards in width, made by the various owners,
and can not be well traveled in rainy weather. They are more properly
horse and mule trails, and oblige people to go in single file. In
late years much has been attempted to improve the highways connecting
the principal cities, and more has been accomplished than in Spanish
colonies. There is a good made road connecting Ponce on the southern
coast with San Juan the capital. Other good roads also extend for a
short distance along the north coast and along the south coast. The
road from Guayama is also said to be a passably good one.

There are in the island about 150 miles of excellent road, and this
is all that receives any attention, transportation being effected
elsewhere on horse back. In the construction of a road level foundation
is sought, and on this is put a heavy layer of crushed rock and brick,
which, after having been well packed and rounded, is covered with
a layer of earth. This is well packed also, and upon the whole is
spread a layer of ground limestone, which is pressed and rolled until
it forms almost a glossy surface. This makes an excellent road here
where the climate is such that it does not affect it, and when there
is no heavy traffic, hut these conditions being changed, the road,
it is thought, would not stand so well.